As i was turning the corner of the block i heard a couple of *clonks* and could no longer turn properly. The nut connected the the ball joint was missing and the ball joint was out of place. So i went to Kragens and used a temperary nut to drive back home. i am wondering where i could get the same nut (it has spaces in every other slot so a wire can go through it). The nut came off the oem upper control arm. the nut looks something like this.





pics are not of my car.

 

does anybody know?

 

they're called "castle nuts" and they should of been avail. at kragen, or any other autopart store. try again. a very common nut.

 

what a bunch of ******!!!
'
They told me they didn't have one, so I went to Honda. After getting raped i finally had one ($5)! then i lost it and had to go buy another!!!!

 

Make sure you put a cotter pin in is so it doesn't happen again.

 

Yep, castle nut, you miight be able to find it at home depot even.

 

Home Depot probably wont have it.
Try another autoparts store if you have to, its a common style nut for automotive.

 

word get a cotter pin it looks like a hairclip that you insert through that hole in the ball joint thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwnthehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you put a cotter pin in is so it doesn't happen again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A very important component to the balljoint/castle nut combo. Do you remember if there was one in the first place. I can't say I have ever heard of a control arm seperating from the ball joint because the castle nut came off. When you install it though, make sure to bend the tabs back to rule out any chance that it might fall off.

 

the ball joint didnt come off the control arm. it came off the knuckle. and yeah there was one but it didnt have a cotter pin inserted through the hole. thanks for everything.

 

Ok now im stuck. I got the castle but it went up halfway and now its stuck. the bolt from the ball joint spins along with the nut. an allen/hex key wouldnt work. any ideas?

btw the temporary nut used was 7/16". when i bought the castle nut in a size 7/16" it was a size too big. the only reason the regular hex nut fit was cuz it had a rubber bearing embedding in the nut. im working witht he right size castle nut (3/8")

 

did you misthread with the temp nut? if not, I'm not quite sure what you're talking about in your last post.

castle nut = useless regular nut, unless you have a cotter pin in it.

 

i know i cant get the castle nut above the hole to place the cotter pin.

 

sounds like your threads are jacked.

i know what you mean, you get the castle nut half way up, and then starts to sping the joint inside the casing. the only reason, is because your threads are messed up.

you might have to change that joint/bearing now.

 

Did you try pressing the ball joint into the knuckle? the ball joint is tapered and should not spin with pressure, also try anti-sieze to help it not bind and clean the threads

 

try using a high impact air wrech and torque it one happen to me and a friend putting on new controls but dont over tighen and break it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also try anti-sieze to help it not bind and clean the threads</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of anti-seize would i use? i tried using wd40 and a torque wrench but it wont budge. i cant screw it on or off at this point. here pics if it helps any.

 

Your threads are jacked.
I recommend trying to get a die to rethread it. Other than that, Id replace it (sucks)

 

whats a die?

 

Its a nut that cuts new or damaged threads.

All you need to do is get the threads off the nut, find a die that is the same and recut them. If you want a how-to there are probably a lot on google. Call a machine shop or two and see if there are any that will let you borrow one...or rent it

 

For future reference, everything on your car is metric. Look at the links in my signature. Often they list the correct fastener sizes.

 

no wonder why, your using the wrong nut and you have it halfassed sideways on there, have fun with that one, and you cant just replace the balljoint, you'll need a whole new upper a-arm

 

How is that the wrong nut??

 

no im sure 3/8" is the right size nut. it wouldnt go up any other way. i think when the stock castle nut fell of it messed up the threads toward the bottom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nikech1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no im sure 3/8" is the right size nut. it wouldnt go up any other way. i think when the stock castle nut fell of it messed up the threads toward the bottom.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure that the correct nut size in an M10x1.5. I may be off on the thread pitch, but it is certainly not a standard thread. That is why it went on part way and then seized.