Hey guys here's my setup:

D16Z6 Head/D16A6 Block
OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness
P28 ECU

A couple weeks ago, My car was throwing Code 1, 21, and 22. After about a week, they all went away. (Break in period) However, I don't really know how VTEC is suppose to feel or sound but it feels like it doesn't kick in.

Does anyone have a video of how SOHC VTEC's are suppose to feel like? The point being is that I tested the Oil Pressure switch on the VTEC and it read over 50 psi of oil pressure. All the wiring is .

What could cause VTEC not to kick in? Oil pressure, RPMs, voltage, speed?

4/20/05:

Last nite I was crusing down the freeway and my CEL popped up again. This time it read Code 1, Code 14, Code 21, Code 22.

Could this be the cause of a mechanical failure of the o2 Sensor or something else?



Thanks in advance,
Jon


Modified by CRX-Fluffy at 10:00 AM 4/20/2005

 

a good way to feel your vtec is to take your exhaust off and only leave on the header, it will be really loud but you will be able to hear vtec , at least on mine i do and it pulls around 4 k rpm to 7200. Thats just how i roll for now until i can afford a exhaust system.And i also have a vtec light for testing purposes wired to my hf shift light which also tellsl me when its working.(if you dont feel this then you sould double check the wiring and let your car warm up before getting on it , make sure you timming belt is adjusted propertly,and also make sure you have enough oil in there)

- Eric

 

The vTEC solenoid does come on, I also hooked up a light up to it. It just doesn't feel like its going up fast. Is it suppose to jump from 4500 to 8k in about 3 seconds or is it faster then that. *shrug* if you could record a video of you stepping on VTEC it might help. VTEC is pretty loud though on my engine. I am just not sure =\

 

congrats on your mini me swap. just got my z6 intake and vtec head time for some porting and a cam swap

 

Thanks for the bump roy

 

Bump it up

 

fluffy, i think you read my mind when you post. i've been having the same type of questions about my mini-me and you have asked both. my buddy that has a vtec del sol was riding with me and said he couldn't feel the vtec engage and i was around 4-5k rpm,... i don't really know what to expect so i wouldn't know.
by the way, i have a vafc but haven't messed with it yet so maybe that's what i need to do this weekend.

 

Hehe its coo, Im just looking for answers. Will go through diagnostics when I have some free time

 

hook up a simple light/led to vtec solenoid wire and drive your car

 

I did connect it to a light. It went on everytime it hit 4700 RPM however, it doesnt feel like VTEC is making it move the RPM's faster. How is it suppose to feel? This is my first VTEC engine heh.

Its loud but anything over 4000 rpm is loud.

-Jon

 

you won't really feel vtec on a single cam motor that much without head work and different cam and p&p

 

Hmm i have a zex stage 1 (59300) and basic i/h/e bolt ons. Anyone have a video of how it feels?

 

if your vtec is not working you will actually feel your car lose power above 6k-6.5k
if it pulls nice and smooth all the way out to redline, your vtec is working

 

ok I guess it is working then heh. Pulls real nice above 6k heh. Still have to figure out why the o2 sensor is throwing a code though

 

I have VAFC-1, isn't there a way to change the vtec initiation point? i haven't messed with it yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have VAFC-1, isn't there a way to change the vtec initiation point? i haven't messed with it yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes but I dunno how.

Fluffy--&gt; Go on Google and search for Honda Cel Codes and you should be able to find some sites with a list of what code means what.

 

I know what the codes mean. But im diagnosing it later on today. Thanks for the bump

 

Figure anything out Fluff? Well I had some luck this weekend, but I did a number of things...I had time and they needed to be done.

1) bled my coolant - let the car warm up a bit, shut it off, squeezed the tubes and shook em a little (to get any bubbles out) then used the 10 mm valve and opened it until coolant came out. did this about 5 times.
2) IAT sensor (Intake Air Temp) - had my cold air intake out to install a bypass valve. This was a good time to drill a hole and install the IAT sensor. When I checked it out, I noticed one of the wires was pulled out - it has 2 junky connectors that looked like a temporary fix. There was just enough wire there to sodder it up and electric tape it. Installed that - I think this helped.
3) Drained and replaced manual transmission fluid, oil filter and oil. It was about 400 miles since the build so I decided this was the time. I'm using a synthetic blend oil now.

Although it has been cold out here (actually f*ing snowed!), when it warms up, it now idles better, has smoother shifting, feels better, and pulls hard at about 4500-5000. I never noticed the vtec pull before and now I can. I only took it over 4500 a couple times though. But it pulls great. I'm not positive, but I think it had to do with the IAT sensor. Now sure how it would react with the vtec, but it could have to do with it not sensing the right temp.

I can't believe how hard it pulls now...I love it. Now the idle, prob...that's still to be determined. Still idles high right off the bat and then goes down as the engine temp goes up. I'm attributing that to engine trying to get to normal operating temp. Not sure if it's normal, but doesn't seem like a huge problem.

Anyway, hope you figure it out and hope this helped.

Dub

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Figure anything out Fluff? Well I had some luck this weekend, I can't believe how hard it pulls now...I love it. Now the idle, prob...that's still to be determined. Still idles high right off the bat and then goes down as the engine temp goes up. I'm attributing that to engine trying to get to normal operating temp. Not sure if it's normal, but doesn't seem like a huge problem.

Anyway, hope you figure it out and hope this helped.

Dub</TD></TR></TABLE>

when the engine is cold and u start her up its supposed to idle @ 2k. Then as the engine warms up it will start to go lower and lower until about 500-800rpm (depending on MANY factors).

but that sounds normal to me!

 

LOL, i have my IAT just hanging out. You think that would have something to do with idle. I'll bleed my coolant as soon as I find some time to get off work and all that. Most likely tomorrow.

Doitdub - great stuff man. I just need to bleed my coolant lines and plug my iat into my intake arm.

Those are the same two things I have that you fixed.

Maybe thats the problem =P

Thanks again guys!

 

not saying that those will definately fix your prob - but they seemed to help mine.
maybe you need to install a bypass valve... i don't care if you only have a short air intake jk