Just put a turbo b18a in my cx.
just rebuilt the motor w/ a hone, new rings/bearings/gaskets, head studs

does not smoke on start up only after it gets warm.
Really smokes at light throttle (high vac) and at idle or if on decel if you just let off gas and leave in gear. I know its oil burning.
compression check is at 205 185 190 185 so they have seated. also changed the oil and plugs and both look good. tried some ring sealer **** from autozone. didnt smoke any less
also my pcv valve us not hooked up. any more suggestions
I am thinking maybe valve guide seal cause they have not been replaced, maybe my seal is bad on turbine housing, or a jacked up oil ring

thanks for your help

 

If it was mine id hook up the pcv valve

 

ttt

 

smokes in high vaccum conditions u say and on decel...i would have to say intake valve seals is causing the problem..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20luda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">smokes in high vaccum conditions u say and on decel...i would have to say intake valve seals is causing the problem..</TD></TR></TABLE>

is that cause it would be more or less "pulling" the oil through the seals cause of high vacuum?

Thanks for the help

 

yup. pull the head and full valve job for &lt;=$150 at any machine shop. even crappy ones can't mess up on this.

 

dont really wanna pull the head on the dd for now im gonna see about changing the guide seals with the head on it, i thinknig i remember reading in my helms i can. hell i even have the seals laying in a box, i just took a chance ASSuming everything would be cool

 

been there, done that. if your head has any significant miles on it, you can't do it without removing the head. what will happen is the valve faces are worn out of round with the seats in the head, and when you remove the valves' retainers, they will spin even just a little and their wear marks on the valve faces won't line up with the old wear marks on the head's valve seats. then, when you've got everything together, it won't run. then you'll have to take the head off anyways b/c it won't hold compression and take it to a machine shop and have them cut the valve faces and valve seats.

trust me. i tried that. never will again! that mistake cost me my daily driver for a week. imagine what that was like. 2 days doing the initial work, then finding out i needed to take it to a machine shop, time to get it back, then put everything back together, not to mention the costs i didn't know i would be incurred. disaster!

 

well ****.
i see what you are saying. i guess i'll just have to find a time where i can put here down for a couple days. i havent driven my other car in months, cause this (w/ old motor) gave me no problems, ever. i drove it states away. so i told my buddy he could borrow it cause he gave his truck to his dad whom lives in a very populated to sell it so he can afford to finish putting his turbo 240 together.
oh well, i can deal with the smoke. i just wont be running synthetic.

oh ****, this just gave me a really good reason to put a vtec head on it!

 

built LS head will be cheaper and make more power IMO. parts are cheaper, and people won't be like "oooh, i want to steal his vt3k **** yo"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">built LS head will be cheaper and make more power IMO. parts are cheaper, and people won't be like "oooh, i want to steal his vt3k **** yo"</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's about 10 people in this entire area that actually know what Vtec is and Burke is really good friends with everyone of them! lol

But thanks for helpin the man out to keep it on topic...

 

what kinds of rings did you use? OEM? did you use the right stone to hone it?

 

Are you sure the oil isn't coming from your turbo? What size oil drain hose do you have any is it flowing downhill? Alot of turbo guys have problems getting the drain hose oriented correctly so that the oil doesn't back up and cause the turbo to burn it.

 

im sure the oil return is fine.
i used hastings rings and a honer i have used before and it worked well that time.

checking prices and the vtec head seems outta my range. so im trying to find an ls head that i can take the the machine shop and get a valve job done and just replace the head one day instead of having downtime.

thanks for the help all