P side rear
Tell me what you think happened.



On a side note...
I was checking the tires and rims for anything odd and saw that my two rear Rotas have some crazy bends in them and Possible one of the fronts.
I'd be a fool to blame them bending on anything else but NYC streets. I without any doubt got my monies worth. I paid less then $300 for them way way back when in new condition
Does any one have a set of rotas they want to sell, They have be true

 

seized pin.

i had that happen to me while at watkins...pissed me off b/c it happened to my gt sports...then it happened to my ultimates...

then i was clued in lubing the pins is a must do everytime you swap the pads out

 

I don't think so.
It's hard to tell in the pic but that is the only corner that wore down to the backing plate... the other 3 corners have decent amount of meat left.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Tell me what you think happened.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

installer error?

Basso...this isn't my area of expertise, i have only changed my rotors and pads once on my car. Sorry i can't be of any help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think so.
It's hard to tell in the pic but that is the only corner that wore down to the backing plate... the other 3 corners have decent amount of meat left.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah...wanna see the pad i still have from watkins? that will show you weird wear

seriously, go lube up

 

Looks like a siezed pin to me.

 

If you think that's odd, look at the pad that was removed from my Miata

 

how'd it just break like that?

 

looks like you didn't line up the X in the piston with the dot on the back of the pad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like you didn't line up the X in the piston with the dot on the back of the pad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your kidding me, right?

I'm not knocking you... I'm knocking the thought of that.

The piston is round so how does lining up the X make a difference?

 

the dot on the back of the pad, that is protruding out

must fall inside the slot of the X

 

really nothing you can do but to install new pads, correctly, those are now garbage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like you didn't line up the X in the piston with the dot on the back of the pad</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, either that or a seized slider will show those symptoms. More likely the "Stub" wasn't lined up in this case though. Do the pads have a "stub" on them anyway? Some don't. . .

 

if the stub doesn't fall in the X
the pad will not be parallel with the rotor
here is my MS paint explanation

correct way with the stub lined up




incorrect way with the stub not in the slot

 

sorry for the OT, but another Q bout pads and rotors.

i torqued the wheels to 80ftlbs.

i have cobalt GT pads on some autozone legen rotors (on ITR BTW).

now, what would cause the rotors to warp in like 3-4 sessions at VIR (each session is 2 times out on track, one was me, other was my bro, for about 20 minutes each)..

and i put another set of legend rotors on for the next day (thank god for 2 year free replacement), same thing, after like 3-4 sessions, warpage (at high speeds braking).

is that because of crappy rotors?

[/hijack]

 

if you bed them in before you track them, you will get better performance

the weren't necesarily "warped"

but the entire surface of the rotor was being bedded in at a different rate
so one part of the rotor wil acutually "bite" harder than another part...so thats why you get the "warped" feeling

 

Good eye, Dan GSR

Basso you chitty installer!

Doesn't the piston move in a clockwise motion while coming out?

 

righty tighty, lefty loosey...

anyway you have to rotate the rear piston clockwise to "tighten" it (move it in). you can do this with any flat blade screwdriver or use the Honda special tool that attaches to a ratchet. the piston doesn't actually rotate while coming out... that would never work if you think about it with the pin on the pad being locked into the slot on the piston. you only have to rotate it to put it back in due to the parking brake mechanism. if you didn't have the built in parking brake then you could just push it back in like a front caliper on the ITR.

to answer the other post if you don't bed in the pads and rotors together properly you will get inconsistent material transfer from the pads to the rotors. That will cause the feeling of warped rotors which is really just DTV (disc thickness variation) due to the unequal material transfer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you bed them in before you track them, you will get better performance

the weren't necesarily "warped"

but the entire surface of the rotor was being bedded in at a different rate
so one part of the rotor wil acutually "bite" harder than another part...so thats why you get the "warped" feeling</TD></TR></TABLE>

werd werd.

they were already bed them in before the track...

but its no prob, ill just get free sets of rotors from autozone.

 

i'd bet money that it's uneven pad deposition on the rotor and not the rotor being warped.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd bet money that it's uneven pad deposition on the rotor and not the rotor being warped.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

possibly..

i put the pads new with the rotors new. and broke them in like cobalt said.

but when i put the second set of rotors on, "warped" again.

ill check and see how even/uneven the pads are

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97ITR239 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ....or use the Honda special tool that attaches to a ratchet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where can you get this? The dealer Im assuming, but I dont see it on the net. I always hate turning those damn pistons with pliers or a flathead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like you didn't line up the X in the piston with the dot on the back of the pad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep thats what i say too.... I have done it my self..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rory Breaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Where can you get this? The dealer Im assuming, but I dont see it on the net. I always hate turning those damn pistons with pliers or a flathead.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i picked that tool up couple years ago from autozone/advance autoparts. they should still have it. its a universal tool

 

I did a quick search on their sites and I didnt see it up there. Ill have to run by after work and check it out.

See thats what you get when you have a woman on your damn arm going "this store sucks lets get out of here!" when you go into parts stores.