I am looking to purchase an all white Cooper S. I definately want the LSD and really want the aerokit because it makes the car look a lot better IMO. I have two different versions of the car spec-ed:

Version 1 comes with (Price 24,050):
-Limited Slip Diff
-Sport Package:
-Dynamic Stability Control
-Front Fog Lamps
-Xenon Head Lamps
-17' S-Lites Wheels
-Aero Kit (Rally inspired Grille, side skirts and front and rear lips)

Version 2 comes with: (Price 23,100)
-Limited Slip Diff
-Aero Kit
-Fog Lamps (Maybe, maybe not)

I will be financing the car first off, I will be entering either the Coast Guard, Navy or Secret Service over the summer so a job is there, just a matter of who gets back to me first. Base pay for all positions is around 44k. My credit score is very very good.

I will be trading in my 2001 Integra GS (Silver, 48.5 Miles, Auto (increases the resale I think), very clean, all the options, it is lowered though but other then that no mods). I KBB-ed the car and its estimated value is between 9-12K. I am aiming for about 9.5 since it is modded.

I want to buy the car new. I am a closet Mini Cultist and love the rally history of the car. I have done research in Consumer Reports and Edmunds and do not want to buy used either because it becomes a pain to factory customize. Also the 04s-05s are considered the first year of the car where the reliability is very good. The initial years of the car were below average. Additionally, I will be keeping the car for a good long while and just want to get it new.

Just need to know what tips or methods some people here use to negotiate to get the best deal possible. Waiting for the day when I can roll it up to the SCCA auto-X comps!

Thanks

 

The only negotiating room you'll have is on your trade. Mini doesn't negotiate on sticker price, you'll always pay MSRP And you'll likely be best off selling your car outright. You can always find out what they'll give you. If it's a slap in the face, like it normally is, put your car up sale within a couple weeks of when your Mini is to be delivered. If it sells early, borrow or rent a car for a week or two. You'll still likely end up ahead.

For example, my father in law was offered $6500 for his 98 Grand Prix GTP w/38K miles at a local Honda dealer. I cleaned it up, posted it for sale on a Pontiac board and got $9300 and probably sold it too cheap. But still he netted $2800. Sure, you loose some of the tax advantage as trades are discounted from the selling price of the car for tax purposes, but that usually is only a few hundred bucks difference. You're almost always better off to sell your car outright.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only negotiating room you'll have is on your trade. Mini doesn't negotiate on sticker price, you'll always pay MSRP

You're almost always better off to sell your car outright.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Selling your car is always better.


But I find it very hard to believe that you can't find someone willing to deal on the msrp. That is always a bullshit tactic that dealers use. If you call around, you can find someone I assure you. Sometimes you need to drive a few hundred miles, but you can save a 1k or 2!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only negotiating room you'll have is on your trade. Mini doesn't negotiate on sticker price, you'll always pay MSRP </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure about that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only negotiating room you'll have is on your trade. Mini doesn't negotiate on sticker price, you'll always pay MSRP </TD></TR></TABLE>

I also find that hard to believe. I know dealers that will negogiate on Saturns.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you sure about that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My mom looked into buying a Mini (and ended up buying a TSX) but the local dealer here would not budge off MSRP on any of their inventory...

Christian

 

Shop around - in my area (DC metro), the dealers in MD will usually sell for less than the dealers in VA. Going out to Frederick or Bowie can save thousands over buying in Fairfax. This applies to new and used cars. I imagine any metropolitan area will be similar.

I don't think Mini has a MSRP-only deal like Saturn, but they are in demand, so they can probably sell their inventory without haggling much. That being the case, the trade-in is the place to negotiate.

Do your research - edmunds.com, kbb.com, etc to get a feel for MSRP and dealer invoice.

 

I know that early on the Mini dealers were getting MSRP because the sales outpaced delivery but don't know if that is true anymore. I don't think tMini itself has a "no negotiation"policy but individual dealers might. I know that Saturn used to but that is no longer true as their cars are now much more standard mainstream and not the "special" company that Saturn was developed as.

Definately sell your car outright, you will always come out ahead. A dealer offered us $20,000 for my wife's BMW 540i and we sold it for $23,750 last week. Tonight we go out driving Subaru Outbacks.

If you can negotiate on price, when they ask "do you have a trade in?", say no even if you plan to. Then you know that you are truely negotiating on the Mini alone and they can't fudge on your car. Once you have a true price on the mini, then you later can say "What'll you give me on trade for my car?" If they say "Hey no fair, you can't do that" then you simply say "Yes I can, I'll go elsewhere if you don't want my business". This is a key when doing your negotiation as the more things are up in the air, the more they can build in or hide costs. It is easier for you to be clear if you approach each step at a time.

And of course, buy as close to the last day of the month as salemen will be much more willing to deal to reach a sales quota or commission point.

 

I agree that there's not really much negotiation room with the Mini. I bought mine used, but have heard plenty from other buyers. At most people are getting a set of floor mats and that's about it. Hopefully you're not on the west coast where some dealers are still charging a premium over MSRP.

 

[hijack]Jeff - is that a robotic chihuahua in your avatar?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know that early on the Mini dealers were getting MSRP... And of course, buy as close to the last day of the month as salemen will be much more willing to deal to reach a sales quota or commission point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good stuff Lee...

Never negotiate on monthly payment, always negotiate on the actual price. Also if you have a credit union that you belong to, check out rates on new cars. Dealers will also hide some of the costs in interest rates. Even if you decide to use the dealer's financing, at least you'll have a ballpark of what it "should" be.

Be willing to walk away at any time, and never buy the same day you initially "set a deal"... sleep on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree that there's not really much negotiation room with the Mini. I bought mine used, but have heard plenty from other buyers. At most people are getting a set of floor mats and that's about it. Hopefully you're not on the west coast where some dealers are still charging a premium over MSRP.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know the resale values on the cars are very good, did you find getting the car used to outweigh getting one new? From what I have heard too, it is hard to "customize" them used? Is this the honest case?

I will be moving to CA over the summer but I am currently in DC Metro area. I want to buy on the east coast to save the real headaches that come with buying a car on the west coast.

To those who have brought up that Mini won't deal on MSRP, I have yet to come across that problem. Granted I am in the infant stages of acquiring a Cooper, and have little "feel" for the dealership itself. I am talking with a Cooper dealer in Boston who I feel will come to a MSRP "Take it or leave it" policy. (Don't ask why Boston, old ties remain there as far as banking and financial assets). I have to feel out this dealer as we exchange info. He's not very forceful or "in your face" which makes me think the dealership policy can pretty much set a price and if you want you will fork it over.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shop around - in my area (DC metro), the dealers in MD will usually sell for less than the dealers in VA. Going out to Frederick or Bowie can save thousands over buying in Fairfax. This applies to new and used cars. I imagine any metropolitan area will be similar.

Do your research - edmunds.com, kbb.com, etc to get a feel for MSRP and dealer invoice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I will look in the MD/DC area. I figured to stay away from Sterling Mini due to the fact that Fairfax is an expensive place to live with money, but MD is a very good suggestion. A lot of this whole Boston thing as mentioned has to do with the fact that my Integra is currently registered with Masshole plates.

CRX Lee <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And of course, buy as close to the last day of the month as salemen will be much more willing to deal to reach a sales quota or commission point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to work at a Land Rover/Jaguar dealership as a porter. Learned this one fast. Always good to remember. I am looking to actually order the car in late May. Probably within a day or two of the close of the fiscal period for the dealership.


Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming if you have them. I guess I need to get a sale ad ready for Autotrader and Honda Tech... But I am going to see if I can get what I want from the dealer... worth a try.

Thanks again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetAwayDriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know the resale values on the cars are very good, did you find getting the car used to outweigh getting one new? From what I have heard too, it is hard to "customize" them used? Is this the honest case?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

In general, you won't save a lot buying used. I just happened to find a car that was a good match. It was a weekend car - a 2002 with only 14K miles. I ended up paying close to KBB, but the car came with over 4K worth of well-chosen modifications. It probably helped my cause that the car was a "base model" - with xenons and heated seats being the only options. It's not the color I would have chosen, but I'm glad I bought it.

If you're going to be particular about your options, you might as well buy them upfront. The used-part aftermarket is pretty weak - the only exception being people changing seat material. (I vote for fabric btw).

The strongest argument for buying new at this point would be the revised gearing, power bump, and availability of the LSD in the 2005. These should greatly increase resale potential into the future.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In general, you won't save a lot buying used. I just happened to find a car that was a good match. It was a weekend car - a 2002 with only 14K miles. I ended up paying close to KBB, but the car came with over 4K worth of well-chosen modifications. It probably helped my cause that the car was a "base model" - with xenons and heated seats being the only options. It's not the color I would have chosen, but I'm glad I bought it.

If you're going to be particular about your options, you might as well buy them upfront. The used-part aftermarket is pretty weak - the only exception being people changing seat material. (I vote for fabric btw).

The strongest argument for buying new at this point would be the revised gearing, power bump, and availability of the LSD in the 2005. These should greatly increase resale potential into the future.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeh that is similar reasoning to what I came up with. I am not looking to mod the car much either, new exhaust and maybe a performance CPU/ECU upgrade and that's about it. I like the Cooper S because its the only car I have looked at where I don't feel like I "have" to dump parts and money in the car. The "motoring" culture that makes the car image means a lot to me, buy it and slam miles on it. Yeh it maybe just advertising but I like the image. I really just want to put on the factory stuff I want and start hitting country roads.

The 2005s are extremely nice. When you say base model do you mean Cooper S or standard Cooper?

Thanks again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emwavey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Never negotiate on monthly payment, always negotiate on the actual price. Also if you have a credit union that you belong to, check out rates on new cars. Dealers will also hide some of the costs in interest rates. Even if you decide to use the dealer's financing, at least you'll have a ballpark of what it "should" be.

Be willing to walk away at any time, and never buy the same day you initially "set a deal"... sleep on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is very good and I forgot to mention it. Buy based on the actual price of the car and not on the payment. This is one of the biggest trap doors as they can roll a number of things inside it and hide them. The worst is answering the question "So what kind of payment are you looking for?" as then all they have to do is match it as you have essentially agreed. My answer with that is "I am not buying a payment, I am buying a car. What is the price of the car?" Don't let a car be an impulse buy and be ready to or even plan to leave once during the process.

BTW, my wife has found a new Subaru Outback in Chicago at a dealer with overstock for $3,000 under what the local dealers want. Sounds like a $100 one way ticket is in my near future followed by a road trip home

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetAwayDriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The 2005s are extremely nice. When you say base model do you mean Cooper S or standard Cooper?

Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I meant a cooper S without any options. The car is much more enjoyable than it might appear on paper.