94' Accord Lx, Non -Vtech 2.2L 4cyl, GOOD CAR OR NOT?
Hey guys I just bought a 94' Accord Lx,here are a few things it came with to start off...and then I have a few questions
17'' Motegi Rims Powdercoated Frost white for the car
Indiglo Guage Kit
Halo Lighting
Altezza Tailights
Sebring Exuast
OEM SPOILER
Cold Air Intake
2 12'' subs
XM READY JVC head Unit
2 amplifiers 1 for subs and the other for doors
Kenwood Component Speaker Set
Clear Lens light kit all around
ISSUES:
245,000 Miles
Rebuilt engine at 100,00 miles
Auto Trans.
4 door
Okay guys, I bought this car for $3700, it's a nice car almost flawless, but the engine/suspension might be having issues.... I bought the car and it runs well except,
1)When taken past 65mph, the car gets this "noticeable" amount of vibration when i have my foot on the acceleratior and it's only on the freeway..but it goes away when i let go..
2)The car kicks very hard when i put it in revese in the mornings but it wears off as the day progresses....
3)As well the car looks like it has a stock suspension and it looks like the shocks never been changed but i'm not sure, they still say 93 on them, and
4)when i do manage to take it up to 130mph, which is hardly, it only cruises at 3000-3700rpm, and nothing past that....
finally 5) the intake looks like oil is gettiong to it, there is a blue pipe leading into the the chrome one and it shows signs of moisture and it is a little amount of oil..(near the intake chamber)...
what can be wrong with these issues, I'm new to impots so i dont know what leads to what.....
If any of you can answer the cause of these issues would greatly be appreciated.....
As well any knowlege of some cheap aftermarket parts that you think i should buy to make the car perform better and increase horsepower...
Thanks to everyone who took the time to readthis post and as well the one especially who decide to reply....
-Rudy
17'' Motegi Rims Powdercoated Frost white for the car
Indiglo Guage Kit
Halo Lighting
Altezza Tailights
Sebring Exuast
OEM SPOILER
Cold Air Intake
2 12'' subs
XM READY JVC head Unit
2 amplifiers 1 for subs and the other for doors
Kenwood Component Speaker Set
Clear Lens light kit all around
ISSUES:
245,000 Miles
Rebuilt engine at 100,00 miles
Auto Trans.
4 door
Okay guys, I bought this car for $3700, it's a nice car almost flawless, but the engine/suspension might be having issues.... I bought the car and it runs well except,
1)When taken past 65mph, the car gets this "noticeable" amount of vibration when i have my foot on the acceleratior and it's only on the freeway..but it goes away when i let go..
2)The car kicks very hard when i put it in revese in the mornings but it wears off as the day progresses....
3)As well the car looks like it has a stock suspension and it looks like the shocks never been changed but i'm not sure, they still say 93 on them, and
4)when i do manage to take it up to 130mph, which is hardly, it only cruises at 3000-3700rpm, and nothing past that....
finally 5) the intake looks like oil is gettiong to it, there is a blue pipe leading into the the chrome one and it shows signs of moisture and it is a little amount of oil..(near the intake chamber)...
what can be wrong with these issues, I'm new to impots so i dont know what leads to what.....
If any of you can answer the cause of these issues would greatly be appreciated.....
As well any knowlege of some cheap aftermarket parts that you think i should buy to make the car perform better and increase horsepower...
Thanks to everyone who took the time to readthis post and as well the one especially who decide to reply....
-Rudy
First off the vibration is a normal thing with accords. Tranny sounds fine, the jerking into reverse is also common when tranny are older but it should be fine. Also if the car really bounces for a while when you hit a bump or pot hole, then maybe you need to replace your shocks. You also may want to look into that oil leaking into your intake.
If you cant go past 130 at 3700 RPM, your probably hitting your limiter, noting 2 worry about. Also if the engine was rebuilt at 100k than you should be fine. Honda engines tend 2 last a long time.
So everthing sounds fine, but get that oil leak on the intake checked out.
If you cant go past 130 at 3700 RPM, your probably hitting your limiter, noting 2 worry about. Also if the engine was rebuilt at 100k than you should be fine. Honda engines tend 2 last a long time.
So everthing sounds fine, but get that oil leak on the intake checked out.
your comment on cheap aftermarket parts to increase power... good luck. awesome rule of thumb when it comes to buying parts..
you get what you pay for.
sounds like you have a nice used car. any used car is gonna have pobs. check that oil leak and keep tabs on how much oil you have. as long as yoru car isnt blowing out blue smoke (burning oil) a lil leak isnt bad. not good,but it wont kill your car unless you never put oil or change the oil in it.
you get what you pay for.
sounds like you have a nice used car. any used car is gonna have pobs. check that oil leak and keep tabs on how much oil you have. as long as yoru car isnt blowing out blue smoke (burning oil) a lil leak isnt bad. not good,but it wont kill your car unless you never put oil or change the oil in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97SOHCF22B2VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off the vibration is a normal thing with accords. Tranny sounds fine, the jerking into reverse is also common when tranny are older but it should be fine. Also if the car really bounces for a while when you hit a bump or pot hole, then maybe you need to replace your shocks. You also may want to look into that oil leaking into your intake.
If you cant go past 130 at 3700 RPM, your probably hitting your limiter, noting 2 worry about. Also if the engine was rebuilt at 100k than you should be fine. Honda engines tend 2 last a long time.
So everthing sounds fine, but get that oil leak on the intake checked out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok few things
1. vibration is not common in any car. when you drive the car does it pull to the left or right?? you might need a alignment.
have you gotten the tries rotated and or balanced??
also check the shocks and springs that also could be the problem.
as for the tranny, you said the engine was rebuilt was the tranny also??
it could be some early signs the tranny is going, its common to start in reverse when its going happened to me 2 times on two diff cars.
as for the rpms i dont know maybe a bad speed sensor!
for the oil in the intake a very little is ok-------------a soaking is not good
i would change your hoses and valve cover gaskets
If you cant go past 130 at 3700 RPM, your probably hitting your limiter, noting 2 worry about. Also if the engine was rebuilt at 100k than you should be fine. Honda engines tend 2 last a long time.
So everthing sounds fine, but get that oil leak on the intake checked out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok few things
1. vibration is not common in any car. when you drive the car does it pull to the left or right?? you might need a alignment.
have you gotten the tries rotated and or balanced??
also check the shocks and springs that also could be the problem.
as for the tranny, you said the engine was rebuilt was the tranny also??
it could be some early signs the tranny is going, its common to start in reverse when its going happened to me 2 times on two diff cars.
as for the rpms i dont know maybe a bad speed sensor!
for the oil in the intake a very little is ok-------------a soaking is not good
i would change your hoses and valve cover gaskets
the car does pull to the left, i also removed the hose that leads to the intake near the intake manifold and it does look like it's had some good amoun of oil leading into it, what can lead to this the intake is an aftermarket...and the vibration......can it be caused by a motor mount being broken?
if it pulls the previouse owner might not have taken it to get re-aligned i suggest you take it in before it gets worse.
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i wouldnt check the motor mounts just yet
start small save your self some money
if you start small 9 times out of 10 you find the problem without dumping alot of money into stuff you didnt need
i would spend the 65$ to get it aligned dosnt have to be the honda dealer but make sure its a good shop dont just take it to any corner shop.
then take the car out to a highway and it should fix the problem
start small save your self some money
if you start small 9 times out of 10 you find the problem without dumping alot of money into stuff you didnt need
i would spend the 65$ to get it aligned dosnt have to be the honda dealer but make sure its a good shop dont just take it to any corner shop.
then take the car out to a highway and it should fix the problem
okay, i had one of my buddies look at the car and he said it could be a motor mount because the engine kicks when i shifted, and i think i will get the trans oil changed and the car aligned.....thanks guys
p.s. any tips on some easy horsepower gains...like aftermarket snap on parts
p.s. any tips on some easy horsepower gains...like aftermarket snap on parts
1. 130MPH on an accord LX isn't going to happen at 3700RPM 3200 gets you 80 (I have a 94 LX 2 door) 130 is well above 4500RPM get your VSS, tach, or Speedo checked to see if any are faulty.
2. Vibration at speed is not normal on these cars. Check the following
a. ball joints
b. tire balance
c. Tire rods
3. Change the tranny fluid. I would go as far as to have the tranny flushed and refilled with HONDA ATF.
4. Change the PCV valve. If that thing is broke, it is possible to get oil in your intake.
A sign of a broken mount is as follows
excessive vibration at idle
+
extremely hard 1/2 shifts and somewaht less harsh 2/3 shifts
Whom ever stated that it normal for accords to vibrate must be smoking crak and needs to lay off of the pipe. my car is at 130K and it does not shake at all.
2. Vibration at speed is not normal on these cars. Check the following
a. ball joints
b. tire balance
c. Tire rods
3. Change the tranny fluid. I would go as far as to have the tranny flushed and refilled with HONDA ATF.
4. Change the PCV valve. If that thing is broke, it is possible to get oil in your intake.
A sign of a broken mount is as follows
excessive vibration at idle
+
extremely hard 1/2 shifts and somewaht less harsh 2/3 shifts
Whom ever stated that it normal for accords to vibrate must be smoking crak and needs to lay off of the pipe. my car is at 130K and it does not shake at all.
okay, thanks, i am goign to have the trany and mount check because it does shift hard especially between 1st and 2nd, the vibration can't be caused by the tire balance because right when it came off the "lift" i took if for a test drive and it still vibrates, the whole center console does shake alot and it mainly happens in the freeway
check your balljoints I had one fail and it caused the car to shake like you mention. it was on the driver's side of the car. The accords are pretty hard to knock out of allignment..
I hit a peice of angle iron at 75mph (it fell off of the truck that was about 200ft in front of me and I could not avoid it). took it to honda and told them what happened and they aligned it right up and NO damage to the car other than getting knocked out of allignment. The angle iron was about 1" by 1" by about 8' and i hit it with the drivers side tire as I swerved to miss it. I was lucky that all it did was hit the pavement and didn't bounce up and get the condensor ir rad as my car would have been toast.
I hit a peice of angle iron at 75mph (it fell off of the truck that was about 200ft in front of me and I could not avoid it). took it to honda and told them what happened and they aligned it right up and NO damage to the car other than getting knocked out of allignment. The angle iron was about 1" by 1" by about 8' and i hit it with the drivers side tire as I swerved to miss it. I was lucky that all it did was hit the pavement and didn't bounce up and get the condensor ir rad as my car would have been toast.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97SOHCF22B2VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off the vibration is a normal thing with accords. Tranny sounds fine, the jerking into reverse is also common when tranny are older but it should be fine. Also if the car really bounces for a while when you hit a bump or pot hole, then maybe you need to replace your shocks. You also may want to look into that oil leaking into your intake.
If you cant go past 130 at 3700 RPM, your probably hitting your limiter, noting 2 worry about. Also if the engine was rebuilt at 100k than you should be fine. Honda engines tend 2 last a long time.
So everthing sounds fine, but get that oil leak on the intake checked out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Incorrect.
Car sounds like it had a hard dogged life.
1) Change your tranny fluid. Use good stuff and make sure you fill correctly. Should improve cold shifting a bit. Hopefully the tranny won't die too fast. I'm sure it was dropped from Neutral into First many-many times.
2) Rebuilt engine @ 100k is not a good thing. Again, car has probably had a hard life....driving hot and put away wet.
If you cant go past 130 at 3700 RPM, your probably hitting your limiter, noting 2 worry about. Also if the engine was rebuilt at 100k than you should be fine. Honda engines tend 2 last a long time.
So everthing sounds fine, but get that oil leak on the intake checked out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Incorrect.
Car sounds like it had a hard dogged life.
1) Change your tranny fluid. Use good stuff and make sure you fill correctly. Should improve cold shifting a bit. Hopefully the tranny won't die too fast. I'm sure it was dropped from Neutral into First many-many times.
2) Rebuilt engine @ 100k is not a good thing. Again, car has probably had a hard life....driving hot and put away wet.
The oil into the intake is normal. It is just the valve cover relieveing (sp?) pressure. It's normal and like previously said, if it isn't drowining then you should be fine.
My accord's limiter is set at 115. You at 130 unless the engine computer is modded, is not right. It probably your rims making it seem like that... maybe not. I'm tired. Hope this helps.
The tranny thing, I think you're about to lose it.
My accord's limiter is set at 115. You at 130 unless the engine computer is modded, is not right. It probably your rims making it seem like that... maybe not. I'm tired. Hope this helps.
The tranny thing, I think you're about to lose it.
Oil in the intake is normal, but you can fight it by doing a catch can setup as shown in this thread:
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forum...=9571
there are also a few other catch can threads on H-T, search away.
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forum...=9571
there are also a few other catch can threads on H-T, search away.
I don't know about you man but I would have checked the car out a little more before I bought it. With everything you listed the one key thing that stands out is the fact the engine was rebuilt at 100K. Like rotarybzzz said, the car has had a hard life.
new eBay short ram intake
four new tires.....then aligment (never do alinment on crap tires)
water pump and the 2 belts that go with it
all IMHO
i'd also recommend not wasting a dime under the hood little by little. i just got a 90 accord ex for $400. car has 260k, motor has 125k. i'm not touching it. the second 1 thing goes wrong under the hood, out goes the f22 and in goes a h23 swap. i will not waste any more money on fixing this and that.
once again, IMO
four new tires.....then aligment (never do alinment on crap tires)
water pump and the 2 belts that go with it
all IMHO
i'd also recommend not wasting a dime under the hood little by little. i just got a 90 accord ex for $400. car has 260k, motor has 125k. i'm not touching it. the second 1 thing goes wrong under the hood, out goes the f22 and in goes a h23 swap. i will not waste any more money on fixing this and that.
once again, IMO
short ram is an aluminum tube replacing your plastic oem tube, w/ a filter in the open, right where your stock air box would go.
cold air is when the aluminum tube continues downward putting your filter out/under the bay area.
cold air is when the aluminum tube continues downward putting your filter out/under the bay area.


