I have about 1500 miles on my new build right now. I have GE sleeves with Weisco custom pistons. This is on an H23 which has given me a lotta problems (do a search).

Question is, im running 10w-30 Amsoil synthetic right now and oil is missing constantly i feel like. There is a leak which i think is coming from the valve cover which leaves like a half-dollar size spot per day.
But the dipstick says im burning i estimate around 1 qt every 600 miles or so in heavy stop and go traffic...

The engine itself does not produce any smoke i from what i can tell and pulls well. SO i guess the question is....where the hell is this oil going? If it is being pushed past the rings is this normal for built engines with maybe a bit loose tolerances?

Also, although i do appreciate everyone's input, please do not respond unless you have intimate knowledge of what you are talking about. I need some info from GURUS who have tinkered with built honda engines for a long time, enough to tell me if i should be concerned or not. No 2nd hand info..."a buddy of mine's motor" etc etc. Its just that sometimes i come across a lot of posts where the poster's only expirience is installing an intake/exhaust, oil changes. Thanks...


Modified by MordecaiPSI at 2:08 AM 4/17/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have about 1500 miles on my new build right now. I have GE sleeves with Weisco custom pistons. This is on an H23 which has given me a lotta problems (do a search).

Question is, im running 10w-30 Amsoil synthetic right now and oil is missing constantly i feel like. There is a leak which i think is coming from the valve cover which leaves like a half-dollar size spot per day.
But the dipstick says im burning i estimate around 1 qt every 800/900 miles or so...

The engine itself does not produce any smoke i from what i can tell and pulls well. SO i guess the question is....where the hell is this oil going? If it is being pushed past the rings is this normal for built engines with maybe a bit loose tolerances?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you done a leak down test?
What type of crankcase evacuation system do you have?
What are your oil temperatures running at ?

10-30 is kinda light weight for an overheated Turbo-charged engine and will burn off.
I recommend mobile 1 15-50 full synthetic for turbo hondas which don't have their oil temperatures under control witrh an oil cooler.

In turbocharged cars their is more blowby and consequently more oil lost if you have an open breather system. The amount lost is dependent upon your setup and your leakdown #'s. The higher the leakdown numbers the greater oil loss.

 

i believe when pistons are cold, they're smaller, burns a little oil and when they get to operating temp, they'll expand and be okay.. so you'll burn some oil.. my friend had pistons in his corrado and told me he needs to fill up about a quart a week.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you done a leak down test?
What type of crankcase evacuation system do you have?
What are your oil temperatures running at ?

10-30 is kinda light weight for an overheated Turbo-charged engine and will burn off.
I recommend mobile 1 15-50 full synthetic for turbo hondas which don't have their oil temperatures under control witrh an oil cooler.

In turbocharged cars their is more blowby and consequently more oil lost if you have an open breather system. The amount lost is dependent upon your setup and your leakdown #'s. The higher the leakdown numbers the greater oil loss.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For my crankcase i just have open to the atmosphere. No oil cooler but my oil temps rarely go over 190. Most of the time it doesnt even go over 180 unless im in traffic. I have not done a leakdown test, havent thought it would be ness since it s brank new engine. If this is from the lighter oil and open crank evac sys + a small leak, could this account fo tthe oil missing?

 

Well, with my rebuilt engine i didnt burn that much oil. i would say only a tiny little bit because i check daily and the amount seem to be the same, and now about 3k miles into the engine i dont burn any oil and my compression is 210 across. I also dont experience blow by, i bet i have some but everytime i run ti hard i would pop the hood and check the breather and it totally dry. im very happy with my built by rpm nyc

 

Well i did a compression test (not leakdown, just with a reg tester u get from Sears.) Numbers came out to ----cyl 4: 190---- cyl 3: 180---- cyl 2: 185---- cyl 1: 180.

Maybe its just the thin oil and my recent stop and go driving in traffic? ALso maybe my oil temp guage is not accurate. The sensor is in the oil pan and im sure the oil when it goes through the turbo, etc is hotter than the oil in the pan. Any thoughts?

 

You are supposed to have the oil temp sender in the oilpan, its fine.

What oil temps are you reading?

You really need to do a leakdown test to gather more info.

 

Temps r 170-180 with no traffic. 190-200 on stop and go traffic. I will need to do a leakdown. But ive only done a reg comp test. What r acceptable leakdown percentages with a fully built engine? Also it seems to burn more oil on stop and go driving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Temps r 170-180 with no traffic. 190-200 on stop and go traffic. I will need to do a leakdown. But ive only done a reg comp test. What r acceptable leakdown percentages with a fully built engine? Also it seems to burn more oil on stop and go driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

something is wrong their... your oil temps are cooler than what they would run stock... and they should be higher... I would try a different guage.

Really good leakdown numbers --- 2-3 % accross the board
Ok leak down numbers 5-6 %

make sure you do a leakdown when the engine is at normal operating temp.

 

How many miles did before you switched to synthetic oil ?
The leak down numbers are good , I run 15w 50 Mobil 1 and have almost no burn off after 2000 miles, 10w 30 is a little thin depending on oil ring cap.

 

Im guessing its just that the oil in the bottom of the pan is cooler cause f the air goin past.

A 2-3% leakdown on a fully built engine ? I remember the builder saying something about the pistons/cyl walls bein a little looser to acomidate possible future turbo upgrades if i were to push 20+ lbs on a bigegr turbo. This possible? Id feel liek if the engine was blown already itd be smoking, no power, etc....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRVRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many miles did before you switched to synthetic oil ?
The leak down numbers are good , I run 15w 50 Mobil 1 and have almost no burn off after 2000 miles, 10w 30 is a little thin depending on oil ring cap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

About 1200 or so. on reg oil broken in on the dyno. If i remember correctly it was using a variety of loads and throttle positions. Im not sure on the detaisl but i know it wasnt babied during breakin. It was broken in under good amount of load.

 

The very first question that needs to be asked when ppl say "I have a new motor thats burning oil" is HOW WAS IT BROKEN IN!

 

Have someone follow you and decelerate in a gear for a while and then get back on it. You'll draw more vacuum which could show a valve seal or turbo seal problem. Sometimes you don't see smoke if it's burning in small amounts so having someone follow you would help some.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im guessing its just that the oil in the bottom of the pan is cooler cause f the air goin past. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No. The oil should remain fairly consistant temperature-wise in the oil pan. I would expect temperatures from 220-250F for a turbo honda from a reading at the bottom of the oil pan.

I placed oil temp. senders in multiple different locations in the past in the top/front of the oil pan, in the bottom/ rear and have used both Aluminum and steel oil pans so I should know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im guessing its just that the oil in the bottom of the pan is cooler cause f the air goin past.

A 2-3% leakdown on a fully built engine ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Remember that forged pistons should have looser tolerances because they expand more . Once the engine is warmed up the clearances will shrink. You should preform the leakdown test when the engine is warmed up. My fully built GSR read leakdown #s 2-3 % .

 

Well this is a SPA guage. Maybe youre familiar....maybe not. Ive never hear dof anyone with any probs with em. It is pretty much brand new.

Also keep in mind im in Maryland. Its been in the 50s/60s recently. Just starting to warm up. Im sure the oil temps will rise when the weather gets warmer.


Modified by MordecaiPSI at 1:58 AM 4/17/2005

 

Well somethin must be up. I want to make sure it is not a mechanical problem with the engine itself. I will have to peice togetehr a leakdown tester (why pay someone to do it when u can take that money and make ur own tester) and get my leakdown numbers. I am also going to ask my builder what the specs of te engine were when it was built.

What specs should i ask for specifically? Im guessing ring gaps and pistons to wall clearances? Anything else?





Modified by MordecaiPSI at 7:02 AM 4/17/2005

 

my built H22 also eats up the same amount of oil. try searching. i've read threads where even their stock H22 eats up oil. pls keep us posted. m puzzled also

 

yeah keep us posted. my b20a wich is real similiar to a h23 cause we use the same rods, i have arias piston and eagle rods and godzilla sleeves. was also built by gem and i have to add a quart like every week the engine has about 7k on it. so keep us posted i yet have done a leakdown test but i will. i also a leakdown test will also tell u where the problem is right like if its the head or the rings

 

uppity

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What specs should i ask for specifically? Im guessing ring gaps and pistons to wall clearances? Anything else?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ask about ring gap too.

How many miles on your head?

 

Same....about 1500 or so? Portflow head with dual springs, and port&polished, ferrera valves, yadda yadda.