I have a question for whoever. I have an 01' Accord with ULEV-VTEC, which is Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle, I'm aware of this. However, the other day I overlooked this post about a guy with a SULEV-VTEC engine and someone mentioned that an intake could pose a risk towards his engine. Is this true or complete crap? I'm really not aware of whether there's any inherent risk on my engine with the intake....would a turbo be out of the question or what?

 

With a CAI you run into the risk of hydrolock.

 

I'm aware of that, however is there a difference between a Non-Emissions F23a1 engine vs. a ULEV-VTEC engine? Is boost out of the question for my car or anything? Is it strictly ECU settings and what not, and has nothing to do with internal engine components?

 

The ULEV have weaker internals from what Ive heard. Its supposedly teh same but they are weaker. Boost might be outta the question but the CAI is no problem. You could probably boost a lil though. THe two guys that blew their ULEV were pushing a lot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Legendaryyaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ULEV have weaker internals from what Ive heard. Its supposedly teh same but they are weaker. </TD></TR></TABLE>

As for the actual internals of the motor (pistons, rods, crank etc...) there is absolutely no difference...where you will find a difference though is most likely EGR, and ecu settings...but you can definitely boost a lev motor...just realize it won't be low emissions afterwards...

 

Well it's not a LEV, it's an ULEV...however the positive thing is my internals are no different compared to all the other F23a1's out there, correct me if I'm wrong. So basically my ECU is little more restricted when compared to a LEV engine? You're telling me that there's no difference between a SULEV, ULEV, LEV, and a non-regulated emission engine? You're 100% sure?

 

I just looked at my engine code and it's and F23A4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the actual internals of the motor (pistons, rods, crank etc...) there is absolutely no difference...where you will find a difference though is most likely EGR, and ecu settings...but you can definitely boost a lev motor...just realize it won't be low emissions afterwards...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats just what the one guy on here with the white sohc turbo Accord said. He went through 3 engines and said the engine were weak then called me a dumbass cuz i stated there was something that had to be wrong. He had a aggressive tune on his engine plus a turbo that was "bigger than what other turbo accords run"(t3/t043 or something like that). Br0n_007 was at 17psi with no issues but this guy insisted that the accord engines are weaksauce. The ringlands were the ones that gave in too fast. That was my justification and notoriusb also said the same.

 

Legendary, since you seem to have some knowledge on 6th gens what's the deal with the different engine types? Can a non-emissions vehicle handle more power than a SULEV for instance? I just want to know what I'm getting myself into in a few years, I just want something relatively quick until I get out of college. I'm getting my suspension done in the next month, then wheels, and some other small suspension stuff. Then I plan doing something to the engine, preferably FI since it only has 36k on it right now....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Legendary, since you seem to have some knowledge on 6th gens what's the deal with the different engine types? Can a non-emissions vehicle handle more power than a SULEV for instance? I just want to know what I'm getting myself into in a few years, I just want something relatively quick until I get out of college. I'm getting my suspension done in the next month, then wheels, and some other small suspension stuff. Then I plan doing something to the engine, preferably FI since it only has 36k on it right now....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not going to say that I know everything but its just from what Ive been reading. I was going to boost my engine as well but i now have a V6. The site where I read where the SULEV isnt that good from that guy has been hacked and all seems to be lost so I cant back myself up. I, personally, do not stand by what he said about Accord engines being weak. His engine blew up so many times becuz he was putting down 281hp at only 10psi. I have not heard of a lot of guys who can do that and still be reliable. His **** blew so many times becuz it has a aggressive tune which was probably tuned to put down a lot of horses and not reliablity. Im sure you can run 10psi and be realiable but you wont be putting down 281whp. That was just insane by itself.

From what I know, the f23a1's are the 98-99 and are just ulev. The 00+ are f23a4's and are SULEV as you stated. Im more than positive that the Accord engines can hold out on 10psi. Just dont go tuning it for the most whp to claim like the other guy did. I forget his name but it was a 6th gen white with WW kit. Youc an talk to Bron_007 as mentioned because he tuned his own car to 17psi and running fine but he has since stopped due to other plans. He was running the AEM EMS. Look for notoriusB as well. On both cases of blown engines its been the ringlands that go. If you dont push your car so much it should be fine. I dont mean to scare you or anything, its just i was chiming in some info from what ive read(not presonal experince), but as Nick H said theres no major difference in the engine so I could be all wrong.

Im more that positive your engine will be fine with some boost. Just have a compression and leak down test before boosting.

There are numerous guys on here going past 10psi and holding out fine. Accordfreak had 14psi but had nowhere near 281whp because his car was tuned to be reliable and not a dyno *****. His was a f22 though, im sure there isnt much difference but I was told that ULEV made a difference there. Im open to corrections. Research is what I did and thats what Ive found.

 

Thanks for the imput, hopefully someone can clarify whether an F23A4 - ULEV has weaker internals than other 6th gen I-4's...

 

??

 

I'm pretty positive that the internals are the same. Just like Nick H mentioned, the differences lie within the ECU and emissions equipment.

 

thanks broseph

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With a CAI you run into the risk of hydrolock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and thats what bypass valves were invented for.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Hites" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and thats what bypass valves were invented for. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't always work. I have seen hydrolock with bypassvalve.

 

Plus I heard that Bypass Valves will actually reduce the hp gain from an intake.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mycord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plus I heard that Bypass Valves will actually reduce the hp gain from an intake. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, the absolutely massive gain from a cai.

lets see; $50 for bypass valve and a 1 or 2 hp decrease, or $1000 for a new/rebuilt engine. gee, which to choose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesn't always work. I have seen hydrolock with bypassvalve. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you have absolutely no chance of avoiding hydrolock without a bypass valve if your intake is submerged. now if you get water high enough to the level the bypass valve is at, hydrolock isnt the worst of your problems.

 

I rather save myself the 1-2hp and the $50 and not submerge the filter in any water

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Corruption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I rather save myself the 1-2hp and the $50 and not submerge the filter in any water</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just put a skid plate on the bottom of my car and fly over lakes, so a bypass valve was pretty much a necessity for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Hites" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you have absolutely no chance of avoiding hydrolock without a bypass valve if your intake is submerged. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol
You actually think that thing will save you from hydrolock.

Yes, when it's completely submerged the bypassvalve is functional, but how often do you think the filter will be completely submerged in water? lol

I've seen a few hydrolocked engines that had CAI and bypassvalve.


Hey Hites I am not trying to change your mind, I would suggest that you keep on driving around that you are saved from hydrolock via that valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol
You actually think that thing will save you from hydrolock.

Yes, when it's completely submerged the bypassvalve is functional, but how often do you think the filter will be completely submerged in water? lol

I've seen a few hydrolocked engines that had CAI and bypassvalve.


Hey Hites I am not trying to change your mind, I would suggest that you keep on driving around that you are saved from hydrolock via that valve. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i have a bypass valve on my accord cause i hydrolocked my integra when the intake was submerged.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "Hites" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i have a bypass valve on my accord cause i hydrolocked my integra when the intake was submerged.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know why you are telling me that you have a bypassvalve? I was under the impression that you had; now, thanks for confirming that.

For your information, I have a CAI with a bypassvalve too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know why you are telling me that you have a bypassvalve? I was under the impression that you had; now, thanks for confirming that.

For your information, I have a CAI with a bypassvalve too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how often do you think the filter will be completely submerged in water?</TD></TR></TABLE>

often enough to cost me $450.