i slid out and hit a curb thanx to some dumbass in a saturn...



can i have a shop cut and weld a new 1 on?? this is my first time dealing with something like this

 

Yes the whole subframe can be cut out and replaced but now is a good time for a soilid drag axle

You really rocked that thing

 

have a look on http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com to see what replacements parts are available.

i wouldn't 'fix' that, replace it.

 

I got the same problem... The right rear LCA mount on the subframe is bent pretty far over so the LCA attaches at a weird angle - not good!

Lemme know what you find out because I need to remedy my problem too. Just realized it was there while swapping out suspension... Must've been like that when I bought the car

 

You definitely do not want to replace the whole subframe, it is very labor intensive and you would pay an outrageous price. All the spot welds would have to be drilled out as well as all the tar in the area cleaned up before removing the spot welds. Your best option is to have a alignment place weld it up.

 

it's really not THAT hard

you can find a parts car and drill the spot welds out....and pull it off in no time...hell, if you were here i'd let you hack away at my parts car for free...

but it is replacable...and it's not nearly as hard as you think.

you can also buy the part new at honda, and just worry about removing yours

just get in there and clean yours up to find all the spot welds.....and go for it

 

im replacing one right now on an ef. the part was $150 from the dealer...

 

thanx a lot guys the stress if commin off now seems like its not gonna be that hard to replace..

damn i love H-T

 

lol, not that hard eh? I'm just going from my experience having replace two of these. It'll be cheaper and more painless to have it welded up but it's up to you. The subframe part alone cost at least $150 plus labor to remove yours and to install the new one unless you're going to do it yourself. Good luck

 

I beleive there was a thread a while back with pics of someone installing a new subframe on an EK. I think it was a CTR subframe because they are apparently stronger. Try and search for that thread it had good pics in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91sihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I beleive there was a thread a while back with pics of someone installing a new subframe on an EK. </TD></TR></TABLE>

there is also a thread (in weld/fab) about a special bit you can buy to remove spot welds.

just do it yourself if you have a welder and can do it safely. I always tack things together and let someone else with more experience finish it off. my welds look like bubble gum sometimes..

 

JDM Vision: Did you figure out any more info on this? Did you get it fixed yet? I'm interested in the result because I got the same problem... Just not as bad as yours Mine is just a little bent back... Just enough so that it's a bitch to get the LCA in and out of it...

 

My sub-frame was that bad and I had King fix it up for me. I don’t have a pic of it when it was cracked but this is a shot of how they fixed it. I have never had any more problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00JunSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You definitely do not want to replace the whole subframe, it is very labor intensive and you would pay an outrageous price. All the spot welds would have to be drilled out as well as all the tar in the area cleaned up before removing the spot welds. Your best option is to have a alignment place weld it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think I'd trust some alignment guy to weld up something that holds the rear suspension together. Maybe a good body shop could weld it up, but I would suggest adding as much reinforment material to it as possible.

I'd personally get it fixed right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadtownSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

from the looks of that... i would think this side is stronger than the other side now. those welds look pretty solid to me..

but for jdmvision, i would replace that... cuz once it cracked, it seems to have shifted as well... if u just welded that.. i dont think it would be straight... the alignment would be off im sure... I would have that whole piece replaced.

 

aftermaket subframes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

from the looks of that... i would think this side is stronger than the other side now. those welds look pretty solid to me..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The other side was welded up the same way so one side was not stronger then the other

 

nice

 

Is there any more news on the CTR rear sub frame just for stuff to learn and if this happens to me i would weld a new one. You do not want one side stronger then the other.

 

wher can u buy after market sub frames?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any more news on the CTR rear sub frame just for stuff to learn and if this happens to me i would weld a new one. You do not want one side stronger then the other. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean by "any more news on the CTR rear sub frame" ? What news do you want?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wher can u buy after market sub frames?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never seen or heard of one being available. You can get one off of a donor car, or I a Honda dealer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00JunSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You definitely do not want to replace the whole subframe, it is very labor intensive and you would pay an outrageous price. All the spot welds would have to be drilled out as well as all the tar in the area cleaned up before removing the spot welds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're right, he doesn't "want" to do it, he HAS to. My rear subframe got detstroyed from an ST rear sway/tie bar combo POS. I had the rear subframe removed and replaced, but before that a lot of reinforcement was done, gussets, stitch welds, bracing, back up plates, and then a tubular brace was added with turnbuckles to pre-tension the whole thing. I had to get a new muffler to clear it. $3500 in the end. Did I want to spend this? Hell no, but I wasn't left with much of a choice considering my LCA's were just hanging freely.