powerslot rotors
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Brewster, Ny, USA
powerslot rotors
ok, im ordering a set of powerslot rotors for my prelude. now, im broke as it is, so im spenind most of my money on these rotors for my car, and i dont want them to warp. what brake pads should i get on my car which will improve performance, but wont warp, and arent too expensive. i have looked at the bc green stuff and have heard good and bad, but i dont know if i can even afford them. what pads are you guys running, and how do they work out for you. also, if you have powerslot rotors, let me know how they work, and how the pads you are using work for them.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: powerslot rotors (2kflamedlude)
I had green stuff pads with power slot rotors. They warped the **** out of them, but someone cut me off while I was breaking them in. Just break them in properly and you should be fine.
I'm running porterfield R4-S pads now, but I changed the powerslot rotors to brembos.
I'm running porterfield R4-S pads now, but I changed the powerslot rotors to brembos.
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From: Tallahassee, FL, US
Re: powerslot rotors (xthephilx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xthephilx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had green stuff pads with power slot rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you notice any more dust with the Green Stuff pads on?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xthephilx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but I changed the powerslot rotors to brembos.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you notice any more dust with the Green Stuff pads on?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xthephilx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but I changed the powerslot rotors to brembos.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: powerslot rotors (silver97prelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silver97prelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you notice any more dust with the Green Stuff pads on?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah. It annoyed the **** out of me.
Yeah. It annoyed the **** out of me.
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From: Tallahassee, FL, US
Re: (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cencel your order and get something cheaper.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just get some bremo blanks off ebay or groupbuycenter.com , like 35 a piece or around that. If you dont have the money just stick with stock pads if there is nothing wrong with them. If you have to get pads Axxis is good like 2kflamedlude said.
I heard the Autozone blank rotors are good as well, and cheaper again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just get some bremo blanks off ebay or groupbuycenter.com , like 35 a piece or around that. If you dont have the money just stick with stock pads if there is nothing wrong with them. If you have to get pads Axxis is good like 2kflamedlude said.
I heard the Autozone blank rotors are good as well, and cheaper again.
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From: Peach, usa
Re: powerslot rotors (2kflamedlude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kflamedlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a set of Axxis semi metallic pads.. Works great with that setup</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have Brembo cross drilled with Axxis pads, a ton of dust
, but pretty good braking!!!
I have Brembo cross drilled with Axxis pads, a ton of dust
, but pretty good braking!!!
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
just to reiterate in simple english:
Rotors are the LAST thing on the car to spend lots of money on. They are a wear item, and cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors. There is no performance benefit to expensive rotors.
Rotors are the LAST thing on the car to spend lots of money on. They are a wear item, and cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors. There is no performance benefit to expensive rotors.
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From: Peach, usa
Re: (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to reiterate in simple english:
Rotors are the LAST thing on the car to spend lots of money on. They are a wear item, and cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors. There is no performance benefit to expensive rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors??? I don't think so. I agree that don't spend a ton of money on rotors, but it is always good to upgrade them bc when your car is faster, you need to stop faster.
Rotors are the LAST thing on the car to spend lots of money on. They are a wear item, and cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors. There is no performance benefit to expensive rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors??? I don't think so. I agree that don't spend a ton of money on rotors, but it is always good to upgrade them bc when your car is faster, you need to stop faster.
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From: San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: (xbn83)
The el cheapo Brembo Blanks are one of the best rotors out there for the money. There is no point in spending any more than that unless you are going to be tracking your car.
I run Brembo Blanks and Axxis (PBR) Ultimates all around and couldn't be happier
I run Brembo Blanks and Axxis (PBR) Ultimates all around and couldn't be happier
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (xbn83)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xbn83 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors??? I don't think so. I agree that don't spend a ton of money on rotors, but it is always good to upgrade them bc when your car is faster, you need to stop faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and what about expensive rotors makes you "stop faster?" care to explain the process of how, or why a $150 rotor has anything to do with stopping "faster"?
Cheap rotors do their job just as well as expensive rotors??? I don't think so. I agree that don't spend a ton of money on rotors, but it is always good to upgrade them bc when your car is faster, you need to stop faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and what about expensive rotors makes you "stop faster?" care to explain the process of how, or why a $150 rotor has anything to do with stopping "faster"?
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Snellville, Georgia, us
SLotted Rotors are ONLY good for track use. On Race cars, the pads are changed after every race brkes bled and balanced etc. If you want to improve braking"feel" or response, the best thing you can do is replace the stock lines with stainless ones. If you must change the rotrs, get drilled. They are more "streetable" and are easier on pads. Slotted rotors slice off a bit of the pad with ard braking. Not practical for everday use. Just my 2 Cents.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (eLuderTypeS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLuderTypeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SLotted Rotors are ONLY good for track use. On Race cars, the pads are changed after every race brkes bled and balanced etc. If you want to improve braking"feel" or response, the best thing you can do is replace the stock lines with stainless ones. If you must change the rotrs, get drilled. They are more "streetable" and are easier on pads. Slotted rotors slice off a bit of the pad with ard braking. Not practical for everday use. Just my 2 Cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're kinda right about SS lines...
everything else is teetering on wrong. Pads are not always changed after every race. it depends on the pad, the car, how much pad is left, if the pad was burnt to a crisp, etc. Slotted rotors are better than drilled for "track use" and maybe preferred by some race teams because they "scrub" the pad surface and keep initial bite consistent. Still, at $100+ a rotor, that benefit isn't worth the extra money. people that aren't running $500,000 race cars aren't running slotted rotors, because they don't really have to--the slots don't do much, and can't afford to waste money like that.
x-drilled rotors are good for nothing. they might work on a trailered show car that doesn't get driven, but the bottom line is that blank rotors are the best. x-drilling will eat your pads alive, just as quickly as slots do--either on the street or the track.
anyway, i'm still wondering how a $150 rotor works better than a $25 rotor.
you're kinda right about SS lines...
everything else is teetering on wrong. Pads are not always changed after every race. it depends on the pad, the car, how much pad is left, if the pad was burnt to a crisp, etc. Slotted rotors are better than drilled for "track use" and maybe preferred by some race teams because they "scrub" the pad surface and keep initial bite consistent. Still, at $100+ a rotor, that benefit isn't worth the extra money. people that aren't running $500,000 race cars aren't running slotted rotors, because they don't really have to--the slots don't do much, and can't afford to waste money like that.
x-drilled rotors are good for nothing. they might work on a trailered show car that doesn't get driven, but the bottom line is that blank rotors are the best. x-drilling will eat your pads alive, just as quickly as slots do--either on the street or the track.
anyway, i'm still wondering how a $150 rotor works better than a $25 rotor.
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From: San Francisco, CA, USA
Re: (bad-monkey)
The only marginal advantage I see to the drilled or slotted rotors is that during repeated hard braking, the rotors stay slightly cooler - not a difference you would see on street use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're kinda right about SS lines...
everything else is teetering on wrong. Pads are not always changed after every race. it depends on the pad, the car, how much pad is left, if the pad was burnt to a crisp, etc. Slotted rotors are better than drilled for "track use" and maybe preferred by some race teams because they "scrub" the pad surface and keep initial bite consistent. Still, at $100+ a rotor, that benefit isn't worth the extra money. people that aren't running $500,000 race cars aren't running slotted rotors, because they don't really have to--the slots don't do much, and can't afford to waste money like that.
x-drilled rotors are good for nothing. they might work on a trailered show car that doesn't get driven, but the bottom line is that blank rotors are the best. x-drilling will eat your pads alive, just as quickly as slots do--either on the street or the track.
anyway, i'm still wondering how a $150 rotor works better than a $25 rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're kinda right about SS lines...
everything else is teetering on wrong. Pads are not always changed after every race. it depends on the pad, the car, how much pad is left, if the pad was burnt to a crisp, etc. Slotted rotors are better than drilled for "track use" and maybe preferred by some race teams because they "scrub" the pad surface and keep initial bite consistent. Still, at $100+ a rotor, that benefit isn't worth the extra money. people that aren't running $500,000 race cars aren't running slotted rotors, because they don't really have to--the slots don't do much, and can't afford to waste money like that.
x-drilled rotors are good for nothing. they might work on a trailered show car that doesn't get driven, but the bottom line is that blank rotors are the best. x-drilling will eat your pads alive, just as quickly as slots do--either on the street or the track.
anyway, i'm still wondering how a $150 rotor works better than a $25 rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (Cashis Lee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cashis Lee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only marginal advantage I see to the drilled or slotted rotors is that during repeated hard braking, the rotors stay slightly cooler - not a difference you would see on street use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they may cool faster, however, that's not nearly as important a job for the rotor to perform as actually absorbing heat. it's more important for a rotor to absorb heat than it is to dissipate it, since if the rotor is absorbing the heat, the fluid is, which is a bad thing. vented solid front rotors cool plenty fast, even in extreme tracking environments where you'd need quicker cooling, vented blank rotors in concert with a brake ducting system should be up to the task for 90%+ of racing applications, given similar weights and hp numbers to OEM. if the stock rotors are overmatched, it's time to get bigger rotors, and preferably solid ones.
they may cool faster, however, that's not nearly as important a job for the rotor to perform as actually absorbing heat. it's more important for a rotor to absorb heat than it is to dissipate it, since if the rotor is absorbing the heat, the fluid is, which is a bad thing. vented solid front rotors cool plenty fast, even in extreme tracking environments where you'd need quicker cooling, vented blank rotors in concert with a brake ducting system should be up to the task for 90%+ of racing applications, given similar weights and hp numbers to OEM. if the stock rotors are overmatched, it's time to get bigger rotors, and preferably solid ones.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (ratboy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ratboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in a non autoX aspect, whats the cheapest/most effective pad/rotor set up i should go with, my stockies are stocking to squeek and wear down</TD></TR></TABLE>
OEM pads and turned oem rotors work great. perfect for the street, imo.
OEM pads and turned oem rotors work great. perfect for the street, imo.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: (girLuder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by girLuder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i heard after market rotors create alot of braking noise... </TD></TR></TABLE>
My brakes squeal like **** under light braking. You get used to it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>My brakes squeal like **** under light braking. You get used to it.
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From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Re: (girLuder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by girLuder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i heard after market rotors create alot of braking noise... </TD></TR></TABLE>
i can't hear any braking noise from my system under any conditions
</TD></TR></TABLE>i can't hear any braking noise from my system under any conditions
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