As far as amp to sub wiring goes, I am looking for options. I plan on connecting 2 12" dual voice coil subwoofers, 500 watts RMS each, to a Profile amp, 300W x 2 RMS @ 4 ohms. I am wondering how I should wire the subs to the amp? I need to stay at 4 ohms.

I have NOT yet tested this, but I have this idea of hooking the subs up to the amp using the basic wiring of pos-pos and neg-neg for 1 voice coil of each sub to the amp. I then connect the 2nd sets of voice coils on the subs together from pos-pos and neg-neg. Will this work efficiently?

I'm open to ideas, as long as the subs stay at a 4 ohm load.

 

To stay at 4 ohms wire each sub in series meaning pos on one voice coil to the neg on the other voice coil then wire the two subs in parallel pos to pos neg to neg. The first connection should take each sub to 8 ohms and when you wire back in parallel you bring it back down to 4ohms..... you can do it the opposite way but this way is simpler to wire to me.



in the pic if you look at speaker A and B as the 2 voice coils on sub 1 and C and D as 2 voice coils on sub 2 this is how to hook it up. And all this is assuming the subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils

As for the way you were gonna hook it up i think only one VC on each sub will work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as amp to sub wiring goes, I am looking for options. I plan on connecting 2 12" dual voice coil subwoofers, 500 watts RMS each, to a Profile amp, 300W x 2 RMS @ 4 ohms. I am wondering how I should wire the subs to the amp? I need to stay at 4 ohms.

I have NOT yet tested this, but I have this idea of hooking the subs up to the amp using the basic wiring of pos-pos and neg-neg for 1 voice coil of each sub to the amp. I then connect the 2nd sets of voice coils on the subs together from pos-pos and neg-neg. Will this work efficiently?

I'm open to ideas, as long as the subs stay at a 4 ohm load. </TD></TR></TABLE>Need to know what the imp. [OHMs the VCs are][DVC 2OHM, DVC 4OHM, DVC 6OHM, or DVC 8OHM] 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Need to know what the imp. [OHMs the VCs are][DVC 2OHM, DVC 4OHM, DVC 6OHM, or DVC 8OHM] 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are DVC 4 OHM.

 

Thanks for the suggestion cruz. My current set-up will only utilize one VC on each sub? If so, what does this mean, output wise?

 

1) just for the record subs don't have power they receive it from the amps.
2) that profile amp is not going to put out anything close to 300x2 @ 4ohms RMS.
unless you are talking about ALS power (as lightning strikes)
as a bolt of lightning comes down from the sky and strikes the heatsink of your profile amp...it might make 300x2 @ 4 ohms.
3) most inexpensive amplifiers have highly overrated power ratings printed right on the amp to entice you to purchase them...ever wonder why that "600 watt RMS" amp only cost $200 brand new?????
4) most inexpensive amplifiers are also rated at different freqeuncies...yea maybe that amp might make 300x2 @ 4 ohms...but at what input voltage? 12 volts...14.4 volts??? what about frequency response as well again that amp might make 300x2 @ 4 ohms but that's probably at 1k or 1000 Hertz. ABSOLUTELY no subwoofer produced is going to play any frequency above 300 Hertz (and that's REALLY pushing it) and survive because it's not designed to!

I'm not trying to slam you...I"M trying to school you.
average going price for an amplifier that's worth it, is roughly 75 cents to $1 a watt.
I say sell the profile and get something with some sack!
As far as the wiring goes...that dude is right... series-parallel is the way to go...IF the rest resistance on EACH coil is 4 ohms

 

also..Theoretically, if you only hook up one VC on each sub you are only getting about half of the sound and power throught the subs...they will still play but not at their full potential. do what cruzan said.... series-parallel jammy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) just for the record subs don't have power they receive it from the amps.
2) that profile amp is not going to put out anything close to 300x2 @ 4ohms RMS.
unless you are talking about ALS power (as lightning strikes)
as a bolt of lightning comes down from the sky and strikes the heatsink of your profile amp...it might make 300x2 @ 4 ohms.
3) most inexpensive amplifiers have highly overrated power ratings printed right on the amp to entice you to purchase them...ever wonder why that "600 watt RMS" amp only cost $200 brand new?????
4) most inexpensive amplifiers are also rated at different freqeuncies...yea maybe that amp might make 300x2 @ 4 ohms...but at what input voltage? 12 volts...14.4 volts??? what about frequency response as well again that amp might make 300x2 @ 4 ohms but that's probably at 1k or 1000 Hertz. ABSOLUTELY no subwoofer produced is going to play any frequency above 300 Hertz (and that's REALLY pushing it) and survive because it's not designed to!

I'm not trying to slam you...I"M trying to school you.
average going price for an amplifier that's worth it, is roughly 75 cents to $1 a watt.
I say sell the profile and get something with some sack!
As far as the wiring goes...that dude is right... series-parallel is the way to go...IF the rest resistance on EACH coil is 4 ohms
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My initial question regarded the wiring for this setup. Thanks for schooling me, but I already know this. I paid 150 for this amp.

Have any WIRING suggestions??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They are DVC 4 OHM.</TD></TR></TABLE>OK...... First, do not use the subs with only one VC.
To wire them, parallel the VC on each sub, (+) to (+) and (-) to(-) you end up with a 2OHM load, then wire the subs together in series take the (+) from one sub and connect it to the (-) of the other sub, that will leave you with a (+) and a (-) to wire to the amp, and a 4OHM load. The other way would be, if each sub has it's own air space, [divided box or 2 boxs] parallel the VC, [2OHM load] and wire one sub to each channel of the amp, I would also like to know what the "true" wattage of the amp is, RMS into 4OHMs 20 to 20,000 both ch. driven, if the amp is underpowered you will just burn up the speakers, you can also damage the speakers by useing just one of the VC 94


Modified by fcm at 5:00 PM 4/15/2005

 

Thanks for the help people!

What would happen if I conected the pos and neg of of one VC on each sub together, pos to pos and neg to neg, then wired each remaining VC on each sub to the amp, pos to pos and neg to neg, using 2 channels?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the help people!

What would happen if I conected the pos and neg of of one VC on each sub together, pos to pos and neg to neg, then wired each remaining VC on each sub to the amp, pos to pos and neg to neg, using 2 channels?</TD></TR></TABLE> That would be a parallel hookup and ok, [my "the other way"] each ch. of the amp would see a 2OHM load, and most 2ch. amps are stable at 2OHMs when run in 2ch. mode 93

 

Would it be more efficient to hook up the subs to the amp at 4ohm brideged, or a 2ohm setup using 2 channels?

Sorry guys, but I'm still confused with all the pos and neg talk, as it's very ambiguous when it comes to the possibilities of what each explanation could mean...???

BTW, this setup is for a friend who I'm assisting. He's using a bandpass box, and I know how shitty these boxes can sound.

Also... we previously ran 8 gauge power/ground wires to the amp; should I upgrade to 4 gauge? I have the 4g laying around but I'm hesitant to the hassle of running them all over again.

 

From some of the info described above, I came up with these two possible diagrams (A and B). Which one would be correct?



What's the difference between them, besides the obvious wiring arrangement? What would the difference in power output be?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From some of the info described above, I came up with these two possible diagrams (A and B). Which one would be correct?



What's the difference between them, besides the obvious wiring arrangement? What would the difference in power output be?</TD></TR></TABLE> On "A" you are only using one VC and you are shorting out the other one. On "B" you have wired the VCs in series and each ch. of the amp will see a 8 ohm load, if you bridge the amp into mono and leave the sub VCs wired like in "B" and wire both the + to the amps + and both the - to the amps -, the amp will see a 4 ohm load.

A couple of things to remember about bandpass boxs, a bandpass box by it's design has "gain" built into it, and can put out the same SPL levels, with less power, then the same subs in a sealed or vented box, It is very hard to hear distortion from a bandpass box, so be very carefull when adjusting the input sen. on the amp, you will also need to check what phase works best, when you wire the subs to the amp you can wire them + of the speaker to + of the amp and - of the speaker to - of the amp, or you can wire them + to - and - to +, in and out of phase 94

 

Would there be a difference in power if I used one VC, rather than both?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would there be a difference in power if I used one VC, rather than both?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes, and you will/can damage the speaker, they were not designed to run with one VC 94

 

You can use one coil just fine. The power handling would be just about cut in half though. It also makes no sense why you would want to do this.