ok guys i am about to buy this 92 rs for 500 bucks and i got it running but it quits after a few minutes of idling....? it needed a new fuel pump so i replaced that and it wasnt gettin very good sprark so i changed the plugs, cap, coil, and rotor.

after i changed all those parts it still will run when i let it sit for a while but will die shortly after. It also idles weird... it will go from 1,000 rpm to 2,000 rpms and repeat. Once it dies it will turn over but then wont start. I can sometimes get it to start with starter fluid but not often. i also have to jump start it since it has been sitting for a while.

any ideas as to wat the problem is?

 

the bouncing idle is ususally either a vacuum leak or somebody messed with the idle adjustment screw

 

would that by any chance make it not run and die?

 

it could i guess if the idle adjustment had been set so low, seems probable, the computer would bounce the idles to try to get it back to the right set point and after a while it would just give up and die... do you know which screw i'm talking about?

 

Next time it refuses to start, test for spark and fuel to narrow down the problem and get back to us.

A shot in the dark, could be a clogged fuel filter or maybe your Coil, Ignitor, or ECU, or very slight chance Main Fuel Relay. Good luck.

 

not coil.....i already replaced that.... im pretty sure its gettin spark.

it is gettinf fuel i check that too. there is this fuse also that keeps blowing but im not sure which one it is...?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Viperlude69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not coil.....i already replaced that.... im pretty sure its gettin spark.

it is gettinf fuel i check that too. there is this fuse also that keeps blowing but im not sure which one it is...?</TD></TR></TABLE>

shouldn't you have a diagram on the fuse box cover?

 

did you check to see if the ecu is throwing any codes? cuz when my b16 was acting the same way your's is, we had a vac leak(fixed it) and still acting the same way. replaced the dizzy with a brand new one and still didnt make a diff.... the ecu was throwin code 9, fix the wiring and wala!!! problem fixed

 

Check your main fuel relay and/or resolder the connections in it. The fact that it won't start after running for a while is pretty indicative of a main relay problem. That's a pretty common symptom of it taking a ****.

You can rule out an idle adjustment problem first if you: Adjust your idle with the idle screw and adjust the throttle cable. If you still have a bouncing idle, you can probably count on a vacuum leak.

 

thx alot psy!.....i will be transporting the car to my house soon so that i can figure out the problem.

the main fuel relay is located where?

no i didnt check and see if it was throwing codes.....i dunno how???

 

You can search to get a lot of details (and pictures!) on the both the main relay and checking codes, so I'll just give you a summary -

Main relay is under the steering wheel. You need to take off the driver's side dash panel that's right above your knees - it comes off with three screws, I think. Then, and there's a trick to this if I remember, you need some goofy combination of ratchets and extensions (or REALLY small hands) to reach the 10mm bolt that holds the main relay in place. It's a little black or brown box that's about the size of a matchbox or two. Pull that off, detach the wires, and open the box. The problems you're looking for are little hairline cracks in the solder, although, sometimes you can't see the cracks at all. Take a soldering iron, wick, and fresh solder and just resolder the connections. Takes a minute or two. Plug in, close it up, and start the car.

To check codes, look for a little green (pretty sure it was green, anyway) connector high up on the passenger side floor, like right under the glove box. You don't have to take any panels or carpet off, just look carefully. This shouldn't be plugged into anything; take a paper clip or some form of wire or jumper and basically jump the two wires together (ie. jam an end of a paper clip into each socket). You'll see what I'm saying once you look. Then, turn the key to "on" and watch your check engine light. It will flash codes to you if you have any.

Long flash = ten's place
Short flash = one's place

Long pause inbetween flashes = new code

Example: Three long flash followed by nine short flashes = code 39
Long pause
another code...etc etc

 

"take a paper clip or some form of wire or jumper and basically jump the two wires together "

^^^ two wires? u only mentioned 1?.....

thanks again. i can narrow it down once the car gets to my house.....hopefully with in the next week.