Well I dropped of my mani to get welded and it's coming along great. Took some few pics but they are not great cause my hand shakes alot. I think this is the only ramhorn for the accord f22b2 I have seen except for fknslmd's, cause thats where I got the idea of fabbing up one. My shop will probably be done by tomorrow or the next day. Will have better pics then....

 

All stainless schedule 40? Nice.

 

yeap... all stainless steel schedule 40 except for the flanges ( they are all mild steel)

 

do you know how they set up the inside purge welding like that?

 

are you welding that on a jig?

 

I am not welding it, my shop is. They said it was all going to be 100% penetrated and purged so we'll see once I get it.

 

Oooohh... See what confused me was:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I dropped of my mani to get welded and it's coming along great. Took some few pics but they are not great cause my hand shakes alot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you meant the welds weren't great because of your nerves.

 

I know your not the one building this but the order of assembly seems overly difficult to me. like how is he gonna weld the 2 &3 runners to the collector? especially between the pipes?

Heres how I do it;

-mock up tubes, collector and HF on block/car
-completely weld up each tube to its corresponding 1/4 of the collector while its tacked to the HF
-then I tack runners 1&2 to the HF and weld that half of the collector all the way around
-follow with same for 2&3. Now you have 2 halves..like so;

-next I tack both halves to the HF and weld the middle of the collector to complete the tubular part

-Weld on HF and mock up T3 inlet. not welded in pic.

-weld on T3 inlet
-cut hole and weld on WG flange/tube
-port all flanges
-plane all flanges
-install or ceramic coat.

I find this works the best for custom setups because a lot of the time a couple degrees of tweaking on the turbine inlet flange can make a world of difference in fitment. And I can get a solid bead around each joint so i know its strong.
Modified by Bailhatch at 12:46 AM 4/13/2005


Modified by Bailhatch at 12:47 AM 4/13/2005


Modified by Bailhatch at 12:48 AM 4/13/2005


Modified by Bailhatch at 12:55 AM 4/13/2005

 

good info bailhatch i think i'll use that method when and if i ever get around to building a manifold

 

UPDATED pics!!!....









Everything turned out sweet. 2 more weeks until install.... can't wait!!!

 

did they surface the head flange ?? cus in the one pic it looks warped

 

 

that is nice

 

how much did it cost you to get it welded and buy all the parts, is that cheaper than buying the manifold from like neukin ?

 

heres the f22b2 manifold i made. sched 40 304

just a log manifold, nothing tooo great.







im actually selling it now, the buyer backed out after going in debt.

 

To buy all the parts it cost me 350 and to weld it it cost me 350. This is without the charge of fabricating it. It was a pretty penny but no one makes this for the accords. I believe it turned out to be more expensive than the neukin but they don't make it for our cars so I think it's worth it. Also only one other person has this so it makes it a lil more worth while.

 

looks decent but for $350 in just welding costs i'd expect them to atleast prep the metal

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did they surface the head flange ?? cus in the one pic it looks warped </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's why i asked him if he used a jig. when ever i build a manifold i use a peice of 3/8 steel, drill holes for it , and bolt the header flange to it.

and btw your bends look like they got warped before they were welded together. did they weld the top front bends last? they look like they're at a weird angle. not that it isn't a decent manifold but for $700 you should have got top notch quality.

 

Looks good