Ok i did a search for B20 Vs B18 and no results. So my question is which is a better swap preformance/reliablitiy wise. The basic set up is going to be:

B20 with Ls intake mani and a DC 4-2-1 header and intake and LS tranny with pr4
B18A1 with DC header and intake.

I know the wiring difficulties with the B20 can be a pain but i feel im compitent enough to do it.
My plan is to have a reliable car and have that little extra something when i need it. this is going to be my Everyday commuter to College which is like 30 miles away.

thanks for the help

 

I picked LS. Mainly because you live in California like me, and it is impossible to make a B20 street legal with the Bureau of Automotive Repair. No "truck" engines as they call it, must be from the same class of vehicle...

 

b20 4 sure. its all about the torque. an they are cheap as ****.

 

How is the wiring with the b20 different from the LS? I'd just get the b20. I don't see why one would be more reliable than the other given the mods you have planned. IMO that'd be a very nice setup for what you want. I have an b18b with a1 tranny in my daily driver and I wish I had a little more.

 

You out of state people don't realize that the B20 is illegal to swap here in California. He wouldn't be able to smog then B20 engine, and if he were to randomly get his hood popped his car would have to be removed off of the streets.

This is just a commuter car, and not a race car or anything.

 

I'm just answering the questions he asked.

 

besides the whole smog thing, the b20 is the better bet IMHO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">besides the whole smog thing, the b20 is the better bet IMHO.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.

 

I say B18 for many reason. Don't only look at displacement, but it takes longer for a B20 to rev and they don't rev as high. B20 are also very prone to crack cylinder walls because they are so thin, which means you may need to have it sleeved. As someone that see Honda race motors built weekly I can tell you that the B18 is a much better motor than the B20. From someone that has seen Honda race motors used for road racing on the track I say that the B18 is more reliable than the B20 (yes we have used both). Yes the B20 is bigger with more ft/lbs for reliablility I would do the B18 and you could add some ITR pistons or VTEC head, and with either of those you could P&P your head.

And from the sounds of it in Cali it appears that the B18 is easier to get REF approved

 

go with the b18

 

i would go with b18.... i currently have a b18 and it runs great.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say B18 for many reason. Don't only look at displacement, but it takes longer for a B20 to rev and they don't rev as high. B20 are also very prone to crack cylinder walls because they are so thin, which means you may need to have it sleeved. As someone that see Honda race motors built weekly I can tell you that the B18 is a much better motor than the B20. From someone that has seen Honda race motors used for road racing on the track I say that the B18 is more reliable than the B20 (yes we have used both). Yes the B20 is bigger with more ft/lbs for reliablility I would do the B18 and you could add some ITR pistons or VTEC head, and with either of those you could P&P your head.

And from the sounds of it in Cali it appears that the B18 is easier to get REF approved</TD></TR></TABLE>


Huh?
A B18 and B20 are the same engine except for the B20 has bigger pistons and different sleeves.
I don't see that affecting the revs.

 

b20 can't handle high revs because its made for towing and low end torque not high revs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20 can't handle high revs because its made for towing and low end torque not high revs </TD></TR></TABLE>

Neither can the B18A. Both motors are practically the same. In fact, the rods and crank are EXACTLY the same. The ONLY difference is bore diameter.

Alot of people seem to pass up the B20 for the b18A, citing the 138cc displacement difference. But let me tell you. That has to be the BIGGEST 138cc on the planet! The power and torque differences are ANYTHING but small. Also, the B18A/B18B is fairly weak on low end torque, only coming alive around 4000RPM. But the B20 pulls from idle on up.

 

what does the a1 mean in b18 a1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXCrazy123 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what does the a1 mean in b18 a1?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's the numeric designation for the 90-93 LS engine.
The B18b1 would be from 94-00 LS
You just can't say "B18" because it could also mean B18c5...the usdm ITR engine.

Did anyone mention which B20? The 97-98 B20b only did 126hp...the 99-00 B20z was 146. Both have the torque...but in mostly stock trim, the B20z is the way to go w/ the extra 20hp.

Is the B20b/z really counted as a truck engine for BAR/ref? I've never heard that...but then again I'm 2000 miles away and never dealt with that Cali BS.

 

i'd go with the LS
#1 cali smog sucks, as mentioned before
#2 an LS swap would be much cheaper. you can rarely find a B20 w/ trans, ecu, etc.
and if you do find a swap you would need a cable&gt;hydro conv, diff ECU, diff axles.
get a 90-91 LS and you gravy comes with everything you need and and you wouldnt
have to change OBD to pass smog

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACINTWEEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you can rarely find a B20 w/ trans, ecu, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The only US car you'll find the B20B/Z in is a CRV and that trans won't fit in a swapped car.
It would probably be nice though because it has the JDM ITR ratio or 4.75 to counter act the taller truck style tires of the CRV.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20 can't handle high revs because its made for towing and low end torque not high revs </TD></TR></TABLE>

The B18 and B20 are the same engine. The B20 runs bigger pistons. That would be like saying if you bored your B18 out to 84mm it would no longer rev because now it is built for towing.


Keep your bad info to yourself. This site doesn't need any more pretend experts

 

i voted for b20 cuz that's what i have in my crx and i love it!
the torque is so nice
and for the people that keep saying it cant rev blah blah, ive been driving it hard (7k+rpm) for a year and a half and got no probs, just sorta runs outta breath way up in the rpms

 

In the end you have to do what you want. Opinions are like buttholes everyone has one...good luck on your swap

 

Wouldn't the ecu used make the differance in the power band and the tranny?

I mean he would end up using probly an LS ecu and LS/gsr/type R tranny unless he wanted cable then add in the b16 trannies.

I would go B20. A lot of it comes down to how much of a price differance you can get vs the others. The only problems with the B20 I have ever heard is when ppl try to do the first gen b20s with like a B16 head or something along those lines.

 

I would go with a b18. You dont want to dump all kinds of money into your swap and have it be illegal and get pulled over and loose it. Get a b18 and bore it out if you want that 2 liter torque.

 

if you didn't live in california, i'd say "whichever you find first for a good price" but since you live in ca, your choice is pretty much made up for you. Go with the b18 just because it can be made legal.

 

i would vote for B20, but if your in cali i would say get a b18b due to laws,