can anyone help me out with hooking up A/F and oil pressure gauges? I have not the slightest clue where to start. thanks.

 

You can get +12v keyed power from the cigarette lighter, for a ground just find a good place on the frame or touching the frame. The purple wire on the A/F gauge goes to the thick white wire on the ECU plugs. The lights on the gauges can be hooked up lots of ways, the best is to wire the +12v to power that comes on when you turn your headlights on. That wiring can be done from behind the little 3 button panel on the left of the steering wheel, you can pop it out and wire to the back of the dimmer switch.....

 

oil pressure should be T'ed off from the stock sensor, which is under the oil filter.

it is reccomended that you run a single braided line to a T that is attached to the firewall, rather then running the T straight off the block. The vibration has been known to snap brass fittings.

 

If you're hooking up the oil pressure gauge on the h22, there's also a place under the coil. It's on the passenger side of the block, just by the head. Only thing is that you'll have to rethread it because it's a different thread pattern than what most companies give you with their fittings. I believe it's bspt and they supply npt. Either way, it's like 1/8th I believe and when I did mine, took about 5 minutes and I was good to go.

 

you can probably use the O2 sensor for the AF gauge and there's and the oil pressure sensor is a little rounded gold thing right under the oil filter. and just tap the wires for the backlights to the left headlight

 

hey its RB (lude-acris). Somehow my account got deleted.

For the oil pressure gauge, what kind of wiring do you reccommend? also i have a few other questions.
Before i take off my A pillar i think it is, is there a certain way? i dont wanna just rip the thing off and not be able to get it back on, or have it not look clean.

Do you run the wire for the oil pressure through your firewall or around the door jam into the bay?

I just wanna make sure i do this right and dont **** anything up. Any other input you can help me out with would be cool so i dont have to take it in anywhere. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .H22 POWER. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey its RB (lude-acris). Somehow my account got deleted.

For the oil pressure gauge, what kind of wiring do you reccommend? also i have a few other questions.
Before i take off my A pillar i think it is, is there a certain way? i dont wanna just rip the thing off and not be able to get it back on, or have it not look clean.

Do you run the wire for the oil pressure through your firewall or around the door jam into the bay?

I just wanna make sure i do this right and dont **** anything up. Any other input you can help me out with would be cool so i dont have to take it in anywhere. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the guages didnt come with all the wiring, all you need is a thin guage wire. the pillar should pop right out just do it slowly putting it back is a pain in the *** but itll be fine as long as you take your time.

you could probably run the wire through the door jam, but i ran it through the firewall. good luck

 

thanks meng, im gonna do it today. Ill post pics when i get it done.

 

got the gauge pod mounted up and the ground wires/12v hooked up last night. There is one white wire that is way thicker than any other one coming from the ECU, is that the one i hook up the purple wire from the a/f gauge to? i just want to make sure i do this right....

 

Should be it, but I tapped into the white wire under the car. I think... I heard that it is better to tap it closer the O2 sensor. I'm not helping much... I'll go away.

 

under the car, so you mean i would have to jack it up? Where exactly is the port where i need to tap the oil line?

 

Yeah, that thicker white wire is the one you should be lookin for

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .H22 POWER. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">under the car, so you mean i would have to jack it up? Where exactly is the port where i need to tap the oil line?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As for the this, I think he's referring to "tapping" as in splicing the purple wire closest to the oxygen sensor on the white wire, and yes, you'd have to jack up the car.

But if you choose not to rethread the port under the coil pack by the dizzy, then you're other alternative is to go under the car by the oil filter where the stock oil sending unit is and you'd have to "T" it off.

 

Dude, be careful with he a/f hook up...I was reading on club rsx NOT to hook up directly onto the O2 sensor under the car....aparently there is a white and red wire at the ECU to hook up from. There was something about the O2 sensor being a full spectrum sensor and it will throw off your a/f...you have to hook up to the secondary sensor, where that red and white wire is. You'll have to read up on that, I'm definately not an expert. I've also read about not T-ing the oil pressure right from the engine for breakage issues, but haven't looked for the stainless steel hose to do it. I'm in the same boat as you trying to hook up my gauges...even mechanics that I've talked to aren't exactly sure where and how to hook the stuff up and that conserns me. Don't want to see you mess up ur ride. I've been holding off the install until I get the info.

 

right on man thanks for the lookout. Ive just been waiting too, i wana make sure i do it right.

 

OK, hooked up my gauges, A/F, oil pressure and boost.....man what a bitch, I hate running wires!! I did a lot of reading and I hope I did this right, and I'll share what I've got. First off the A/F was run off the the ECU wire. It from the left cluster, the second wire from the right, it's white with a red stripe. There is a great photo of it on clubrsx. I've read that the A/F will bounce around from this point, but running from the primary O2 sensor, the first one will screw up the ECU because the gauge "steals" voltage from the sensor to the O2. Mine bounces around a bit, but I know I'm not running lean all the time, which was really what I wanted to know. There is a "proper" full spectrum A/F gauge that cost $500US that is the proper set up other then this route that most people take.

The oil pressure was interesting too. I went to a fitting place called Dee Tag in London, Ont. where they made me a custom stainless steel peice about 18 inches long. They connected a fitting to one end for the block. The block threat is BSPT (british standard pipe thread) and I threaded the hose to that using a high temp thread sealer, no teflon tape. To the other end of the fitting, there was also a male BSPT which I T'ed. The stock sender went in one side and the gauge sender when to the other side. Now the directions said to ground the gauge sender from the thread, but when I did that, the gauge would not read at all, but just stayed stuck against the needle stop past the 100psi reading. When I got rid of that ground, the gauge worked fine.

The boost gauge was easy off the JRSC and into the gauge. The biggest problem was that the wire wasn't long enough and I had to lower the gauge from the top pod to the lowest one. The problem was that I had already wired all those gauges together hook up the lights(grrrrrrr, did I mention that I hate wiring!) One tip: put quick connecters from the gauge wires to the wires that where run though the engine bay. If a light burns out, or you want to adjust the fit of the pod, it will be much quicker and easier. Just take your time. Good luck


Modified by RSXMartin at 3:29 PM 5/2/2005