Timing Belt (yes searched)
Am I crazy for still driving my car, it gets floored daily...
I have 97' with 73k miles. I figured I was going to get it done at 90k when I'm suppose to but I'm about 2 years over the "time" im suppose to get it done. Its supposed to be every 6 yrs, or 90k miles. I asked one mechanic at the shop and he looked at me like I was crazy, because I'm driving with a 8 year old timing belt, and I drive hard...Then I asked another mechanic my moms friend and he said it should be fine?
I was going to get it done when I hit 75k, probally in a month or two during the summer when I have time to bring it to my local shop. I got a quote for 450.00 for everything. Can I wait?
I have 97' with 73k miles. I figured I was going to get it done at 90k when I'm suppose to but I'm about 2 years over the "time" im suppose to get it done. Its supposed to be every 6 yrs, or 90k miles. I asked one mechanic at the shop and he looked at me like I was crazy, because I'm driving with a 8 year old timing belt, and I drive hard...Then I asked another mechanic my moms friend and he said it should be fine?
I was going to get it done when I hit 75k, probally in a month or two during the summer when I have time to bring it to my local shop. I got a quote for 450.00 for everything. Can I wait?
Sooner the better, especially if it's a five speed and you beat on it daily. Also, you should have the cam, crank, and balancer seals at the same time. Nothing worse than having to redo a belt because one of those starts leaking oil on it.
sooner better than later....the f series are interference engines, so if your timming gets fubared, so will your valve train. unless of course your like me, and would LOVE an excust to drop in an H or build up the F from the ground up....
remember your odometer reads 73k but your engine is got more that that especially if you do a lot of city driving and have to wait at stop lotes the engine still goes but odometer does not add the miles ,make sure they also replace water pump $ 450 is a good price is he using honda parts??and don't forget to have him put a babancer shaft retainer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sooner better than later....the f series are interference engines, so if your timming gets fubared, so will your valve train. unless of course your like me, and would LOVE an excust to drop in an H or build up the F from the ground up....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are interference motors, but because its SOHC the occasion for bending valves is very rare. You'd have to be at very high RPM when it breaks. With VTEC especially in the low RPMs the valves don't go out as far.
DOHC yeah if you break a belt you are pretty well "fubared"
</TD></TR></TABLE>They are interference motors, but because its SOHC the occasion for bending valves is very rare. You'd have to be at very high RPM when it breaks. With VTEC especially in the low RPMs the valves don't go out as far.
DOHC yeah if you break a belt you are pretty well "fubared"
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They are interference motors, but because its SOHC the occasion for bending valves is very rare. You'd have to be at very high RPM when it breaks. With VTEC especially in the low RPMs the valves don't go out as far.
DOHC yeah if you break a belt you are pretty well "fubared"</TD></TR></TABLE>
The biggest factor in whether valves get bent or not is whether it's an auto or a manual. But the question is "would it be better to do it now or wait." The correct answer is it would be better to do it now because all honda 4cyls are interference motors. If his belt breaks because he read your post and got the same impression I got, that it's no big deal to wait. Are you going to pay if it does bend the valves. Waiting on an overdue belt, time or mileage, is bad advice.
They are interference motors, but because its SOHC the occasion for bending valves is very rare. You'd have to be at very high RPM when it breaks. With VTEC especially in the low RPMs the valves don't go out as far.
DOHC yeah if you break a belt you are pretty well "fubared"</TD></TR></TABLE>
The biggest factor in whether valves get bent or not is whether it's an auto or a manual. But the question is "would it be better to do it now or wait." The correct answer is it would be better to do it now because all honda 4cyls are interference motors. If his belt breaks because he read your post and got the same impression I got, that it's no big deal to wait. Are you going to pay if it does bend the valves. Waiting on an overdue belt, time or mileage, is bad advice.
the first time I changed my accord's timing belt was at 90K and at that time the car was 8 years old. I would be more worried that he beats on it vs the years he has had the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the first time I changed my accord's timing belt was at 90K and at that time the car was 8 years old. I would be more worried that he beats on it vs the years he has had the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly, he states in his post that he drives hard frequently, which is a big factor in my reccomendation.
Exactly, he states in his post that he drives hard frequently, which is a big factor in my reccomendation.
Well there was a time period, when I first got my AEM CAI where I would be WOT about 10-15 times a day. But now that I have a new tranny (old one shitted on me) I baby the car, never take it past 3500rpm for the past year.
Make the leap and sleep at night. There's nothing quite so teeth knashing as driving miles from home wondering if that Timing Belt "land mine" is going to let go.
Along with the (obvious) belt, you're going to need guides, tensioner, seals and....... water pump. Reasoning being: you'd <U>really</U> enjoy doing the job twice. At 75k, is't on borrowed time already, so do it while you're in there.
$450.00 is a good price. The crank sprocket can be a real bear getting off.
P_Adams
Along with the (obvious) belt, you're going to need guides, tensioner, seals and....... water pump. Reasoning being: you'd <U>really</U> enjoy doing the job twice. At 75k, is't on borrowed time already, so do it while you're in there.
$450.00 is a good price. The crank sprocket can be a real bear getting off.
P_Adams
Should be ok. With autos damage generally doesn't occur when the belt breaks unless you are at high RPM. It usually happens when someone cranks it over a lot trying to start it.
Thank you all the voices from this thread peer pressured me into doing it today. Dropped off the car a hour ago, and I'm going to pick it up tommorow afternoon
I feel since it was 2 yrs overdue, i can drive the next 100k miles pretty much worry free engine wise.
I feel since it was 2 yrs overdue, i can drive the next 100k miles pretty much worry free engine wise.
the new belts are good for 105K versus the original 90K. I had my belt done by a honda dealer for $360 when I was in Minnesota and here in STL Huey Honda will do it for $290. Honda dealers will by default replace any of the parts that they need to take off. For me it was
Timing belt
Water pump
front oil seal (replaced it and installed a new retainer)
drive belts
whatever else they took off that was a part that would need replacing
Timing belt
Water pump
front oil seal (replaced it and installed a new retainer)
drive belts
whatever else they took off that was a part that would need replacing
ehy YEUEM i am assuming you have a t least a 90 accord for them to put a balancer shaft seal retainer and you are telling me they did all that p+l for $290???? no offense but it sounds very very cheap did they use honda parts??
I did not have them do it on my car, however they do perform the mundane tasks that I do not such as oil changes and I saw on their price list timing belt $290.
The guy who did my belt did it in 90 mins start to finish but they charge me 2.5 hrs labor at the time
The guy who did my belt did it in 90 mins start to finish but they charge me 2.5 hrs labor at the time
I think I got raped in the *** i think but my mechanic recommended everything:
Timing Belt, Idler Pully and Tensioner Kit: 242.50
Water Pump: 78.00
PCV Valve: 7.50
Valve Cover Gasket: 29.85
Coolant, Anti-freeze (Prestone): 20.00
Crank Seal: 12.90
Cam Seal: 16.75
Labor Coupon Special: 57.00
Labor: 337.50
TOTAL: $742.00
Did I get raped? He said I did it the "RIGHT" way...
Timing Belt, Idler Pully and Tensioner Kit: 242.50
Water Pump: 78.00
PCV Valve: 7.50
Valve Cover Gasket: 29.85
Coolant, Anti-freeze (Prestone): 20.00
Crank Seal: 12.90
Cam Seal: 16.75
Labor Coupon Special: 57.00
Labor: 337.50
TOTAL: $742.00
Did I get raped? He said I did it the "RIGHT" way...
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