I just installed an Exedy 3-puck clutch and a Fidanza flywheel.

Here's the problem:

When the clutch pedal is completly let off and in first gear or reverse the car moves but it's obvious that the clutch slips a lot. I can let off the clutch quickly and the car won't even jerk or stall.

What do you think is wrong?

A mechanic I know suggested lowering the material where the pressure plate bolts onto the flywheel. He thinks the problem may be that there might be too much distance for the clutch to engage completly.


Is there a possibility that the clutch isn't completly engaged due to the clutch slave master cylinder? Meaning the throwout bearing is always pushing a bit on the clutch? Could it be that the diaphragm tips on the pressure plate arent angled correctly? (if not how do i position them right?)

 

have you tried adjusting the push rod?

 

I purged the clutch line.... Is that what youre asking?


Modified by Chiller at 9:33 AM 4/9/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried adjusting the push rod?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what Dan meant:



The two 12mm nuts according to master mech Willard; I remember doing that a looooong time ago when I had my Cusco Super Single - not fun (no room to work with down there).

 

if there is grease on the pushrod that connects to the clutch pedal, then the master cylinder has gone bad and you need to replace it.

 

Im not sure if this applys to me because i dont have an organic clutch...

It might be the problem though however it didnt state that the clutch will slip only that the car will feel abnormal...


Modified by Chiller at 7:23 PM 4/9/2005

 

Could it be that the throwout bearing fork isnt fully on the pivot? Would it have popped even if it wasnt put on all the way due to the pressure from both the pressure plate and the clutch slave master cylinder?

 

I took the slave master cylinder off and the fork has play so tehcnicly the clutch should be holding. I turned the car on with the hand break on and the car can idle no stalling... What could be the problem?

 

I had an Exedy kit that had a defective pressure plate which wouldnt release my clutch....I switched to a clutch masters clutch kit and it solved my problem

 

I honestly think the clutch pressure plate is defective thinking about all the possibilities. Did exedy pay you back?

 

I went to honda this morning to check out to see if the fork was jammed or not on the pivot. Everything was fine. We took off the clutch slave cylinder and saw that the clutch should be fully engaged. Then we pulled the handbreak put her in first and was able to start the car with no stalling.

They took the transmission off and we inspected the clutch and flywheel. This is what we found!!!







We noticed that it was rubbing a lot on the flywheel clutch disk side. So the flywheel on the surface where the clutch plates meet needs to be shaved by 2mm...

 

I had that exact clutch in my caR and it only lasted 11k miles and the worst pedal ever. But I did not have any issues like your having... Mine wore out very evenly and smoothly.

 

It's more the flywheels fault than the clutch.

What do you mean by the worst pedal ever?

What type of driving do you do?

 

The flyweel is being cut now and ill have updates once i get it back from the shop.

 

bummer... I wouldn't of put a 3 puck clutch in a daily driver.

 

I swear these exedy organics are more trouble than they are worth. Whether it is the disk, pp, or bearing, they need to redesign or fix the problem. I wonder if the OEM kits are the same way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yung98gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I swear these exedy organics are more trouble than they are worth. Whether it is the disk, pp, or bearing, they need to redesign or fix the problem. I wonder if the OEM kits are the same way?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not an organic clutch if you scroll up.

The clutch and flywheel alone are fine. We fit the old clutch on the new flywheel and the old flywheel on the new clutch both were great fits. It's just the exedy/fidanza combo that didnt work. Thing is though that we measured the diameter of both interiors of the flywheels friction disk. The fidana had .5mm less than stock It's being machined now so I hope to have the flywheel back soon and get this nightmare overwith... I hope this is the end of all the problems with this install.

 

yeah, I guess when I get an organic I will mate it up with an exedy flywheel. Can't go wrong there I guess.

 

i never had any problems with the exedy organic clutch setup.........IMO its the best street clutch for the money hands down......

 

Thats horrible. My Exedy stage 2 had that SAME EXACT problem of the inside not being machined properly. I think its the clutch plate that needs the machining ... not the flywheel. I took photos and sent it back to exedy for a refund. Now its a year and 1/2 after getting the 2nd Exedy stage 2 and my clutch is slipping unbelievably.

 

i have a exedy stage 2 with a cromolly flywheel and it worked great for about a year and a half now it is starting to slip a little. Im just in the market for a new clutch and dont know what to get.

 

there is two exedy 3 pucks, the thick and thin. That is the thin one. 1/2 the friction material and lighter than the thick.
I would NOT run the thin on a street car. As said above it;s not going to last. Exedy should market that as a true race only piece.

Also, what did you torque your pressure plates bolts too?
we used to sell exedy, but too many customers compained of problems. Ones that we isntalled never had a problem, but ones that people installed on their own where the ones to come back. broken spring, broken pressue plate, and the same problem you have.

The pressure plate bolts need to be torqued properly (not saying yours wasn't) and i would only run them with one piece flywheels