I am debating how to get the biggest punch from my ep3. I know FI will make big numbers and bolt right up, but I like NA and really want the challenge of building a solid k20 from the block up. So I am wondering if I start with a k20a block how much power can it can make and still be driven everyday without any issues?


Thanks for any insight.

 

If its built right you should be able to make as much power as you want without any major engine problems. The engine tuning is what makes/breaks a cars performance

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBRF4i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its built right you should be able to make as much power as you want without any major engine problems. The engine tuning is what makes/breaks a cars performance</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was assuming getting a professional tune job, even with that I think the amount of power the engine can make is finite. I guess I am saying if I were to use a forged and balanced crank, forged rods, hi compression pistons, a bullet proof head and studs that could go to 9000 rpm with sri or v2, good intake manifold and throttle body with a nice header and exhaust, all tuned with say Hondata to perfect ratios. What kind of compression should I run and how much power will it make it its set up correctly and what combo of parts will give me the fewest issues on an everyday basis.

 

Peoepl have built 12:1 compression K motors tuned on pump gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BSME &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Peoepl have built 12:1 compression K motors tuned on pump gas. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What parts did they use? How much did things cost? How much power does that make and will it be reliable?

 

You can keep the stock bottom end and just do the head work and make 220-230whp. HOWEVER, you can boost the A3 to a tune of 260+ and not have to swap a motor and THEN pay to mod it.

If you're looking for a good daily driver, stick with your A3 and boost it (JRSC or Turbo) IMO.


Steve

 

i was talking to a couple of garages about the same thing. i wanted all the internals done as well. they said the stock piston arms should be able to handle alot, definetly get some cnc forged pistons, but dont go off and buy arms right away before you do some more checking. what else sucks, is the k20a3 does not have any camshafts and a few other things that are made for the a2, so you have to wait till they are made by whatever company decides to make them. best suggestion.....buy everything you need and get it all put in at once. no point in taking out the engine everytime you get a new internal part. to expensive.

 

I know I could strap on a supercharger or turbo and make really good power with the a3, I am in fact still thinking about going that route. However, I really like NA, so I have been kicking around the idea of building an uber Honda a2. So I guess my question now becomes if I keep the stock rods and crank can I throw in some 12:1 pistons, p and p'ed heads with hotter cams, Hondata, and set up the manifold, tb, intake, header and exhuast and get to around 250 whp and keep it reliable for DD?

Thanks for the feedback

 

If you're talking about the A2 again, it won't be that reliable with what now looks to be a fully built motor. Well, it could be, but all you die hards know how that **** goes.

Steve

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k-series &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're talking about the A2 again, it won't be that reliable with what now looks to be a fully built motor. Well, it could be, but all you die hards know how that **** goes.

Steve</TD></TR></TABLE>

??????? What does that mean??????

What I am asking is how can I build a higher compression, reliable, pump gas using engine based on a k20a2 block. If I need to replace the crank and rods I will do that. I am just looking for some definitive information here.

 

HyTech built up a 263 whp n/a RSX-S that was featured in Honda Tuning in Nov. 2003. Took them $10K to do it, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BarracksSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HyTech built up a 263 whp n/a RSX-S that was featured in Honda Tuning in Nov. 2003. Took them $10K to do it, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does the $10K include buying a complete a2 swap?

 

Nope.

How much whp (dyno) do you want out of your all motor setup, let's start there.


Steve

 

As far as your "still be reliable for daily driving"...i guess that all depends on what you feel is reliable daily driving, and how ready you are to drive a car that has higher performance character over its stock counterpart daily on the street...i can tell you that my wife's s2000 is a good example of a purpose built Honda, its fast, handles great, not alot of creature comforts but its a true sports car...for daily driving though, i wouldnt have it. Reliable engines all depend on how much money your willing to throw at it to keep it running well with the added parts..."support" mods as some call them tend to be the ones that yield no gains but play crucial part in a well built motor (fi or n/a).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nos4a2si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was talking to a couple of garages about the same thing. i wanted all the internals done as well. they said the stock piston arms should be able to handle alot, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Handle alot of what? REVS? They can't handle sustained 9000rpms without stretching themselves to oblivion. When you say piston arms, you are referring to the connecting rods, correct? The K20s weakest links are the conrods and the narrow bearings. They easily spin a bearing or 2 at high rpms and the rods stretch. Besides that, the K motor is a fabulous little gem.