OBD2 Code: P0141 Fuel Tank Pressure System
Ignition Keeps Dying..... and Fuse #24 keeps poppin.
Finally got my car to throw a code by replacing ACG (IG) fuse with an Autozone circuit breaker.
Car finally threw P0141 - Fuel Tank Pressure System.
My question is: Can this fuel pump short INTERNALLY, due to low fuel in tank? because this is when this all began to unravel. when I was extremely low on fuel.
EDIT: I know H-T posts this code a s O2 sensor related, but my AutoTAP scanner pulled the code but classified it at fuel related???
Modified by BigDaddyRich at 10:20 PM 4/6/2005
Finally got my car to throw a code by replacing ACG (IG) fuse with an Autozone circuit breaker.
Car finally threw P0141 - Fuel Tank Pressure System.
My question is: Can this fuel pump short INTERNALLY, due to low fuel in tank? because this is when this all began to unravel. when I was extremely low on fuel.
EDIT: I know H-T posts this code a s O2 sensor related, but my AutoTAP scanner pulled the code but classified it at fuel related???
Modified by BigDaddyRich at 10:20 PM 4/6/2005
Better yet, my list ('98 Accord Helm book) says P0141 is the secondary O2 sensor heater circuit. Now THAT would likely be on the same fuse you're talking about.
Better check your code definition list. I think the fuel tank pressure measurement errors are P0450, 452, & 453.
Secondary O2 sensor is the one after the catalyst. (Probably in the cat housing, towards the outlet.) Look for pinched wires that sometimes short to ground. Especially as the exhausts system heats up & expands.
Better check your code definition list. I think the fuel tank pressure measurement errors are P0450, 452, & 453.
Secondary O2 sensor is the one after the catalyst. (Probably in the cat housing, towards the outlet.) Look for pinched wires that sometimes short to ground. Especially as the exhausts system heats up & expands.
Jim. it puzzled me because when I cut the fuel pump and VSS wires from the Main Relay and ran them to an alternate 15amp ignition switched power source,
The car started right up but threw a CEL (due to the cut- opened ended wire that were not rerouted to anything)
that same P0141 "Fuel Tank Pressure Syetem"
and a VSS code.
I didnt wanna drive around with a CEL for fuel pressure and not be warned in the event of a true failure so after running the car on the new fuse for a bit, I move the two hot wires BACK to the Main Relay and resoldered everything back to OEM specs. Started car and idled it for 45min (no CEL's)
I then drove 115 hwy miles and threw a CEL for "Fuel Tank Pressure System" I guess that auto resetting circuit breaker kept the system alive long enough for the problem to register in the ECU.
Im gonna take it from there now.
The car started right up but threw a CEL (due to the cut- opened ended wire that were not rerouted to anything)
that same P0141 "Fuel Tank Pressure Syetem"
and a VSS code.
I didnt wanna drive around with a CEL for fuel pressure and not be warned in the event of a true failure so after running the car on the new fuse for a bit, I move the two hot wires BACK to the Main Relay and resoldered everything back to OEM specs. Started car and idled it for 45min (no CEL's)
I then drove 115 hwy miles and threw a CEL for "Fuel Tank Pressure System" I guess that auto resetting circuit breaker kept the system alive long enough for the problem to register in the ECU.
Im gonna take it from there now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Better yet, my list ('98 Accord Helm book) says P0141 is the secondary O2 sensor heater circuit. Now THAT would likely be on the same fuse you're talking about.
Better check your code definition list. I think the fuel tank pressure measurement errors are P0450, 452, & 453.
Secondary O2 sensor is the one after the catalyst. (Probably in the cat housing, towards the outlet.) Look for pinched wires that sometimes short to ground. Especially as the exhausts system heats up & expands.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll jumper the harness by the ECU and see what the "Honda Code reads" tonight.
Better check your code definition list. I think the fuel tank pressure measurement errors are P0450, 452, & 453.
Secondary O2 sensor is the one after the catalyst. (Probably in the cat housing, towards the outlet.) Look for pinched wires that sometimes short to ground. Especially as the exhausts system heats up & expands.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll jumper the harness by the ECU and see what the "Honda Code reads" tonight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigDaddyRich »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... my troubles will be solved!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>Or just beginning (j/k)...
Unfortunately, you'll be crawling around under the car, above the exhaust, for that wiring. Not great fun, even if it's not raining.
Unplug the 2nd O2 sensor. The 2 same-color (black?) wires are for the heater. They should measure 15 to 40 ohms between them. Neither one should have any continuity to ground. If it fails this test it's time for a new sensor.
Unfortunately, you'll be crawling around under the car, above the exhaust, for that wiring. Not great fun, even if it's not raining.
Unplug the 2nd O2 sensor. The 2 same-color (black?) wires are for the heater. They should measure 15 to 40 ohms between them. Neither one should have any continuity to ground. If it fails this test it's time for a new sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or just beginning (j/k)...
Unfortunately, you'll be crawling around under the car, above the exhaust, for that wiring. Not great fun, even if it's not raining.
Unplug the 2nd O2 sensor. The 2 same-color (black?) wires are for the heater. They should measure 15 to 40 ohms between them. Neither one should have any continuity to ground. If it fails this test it's time for a new sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the car does have 125K on it.... maybe its time to look at stuff like this that gets weathered.
I'll wrap the new wire sensor in CoolTape before installing it , since I have that sitting around garage.
Im no stranger to things being more grimey than they have to be
Its something I just accept in the grand scheme of fixing things myself, instead of paying some shop that gonna wanna scam me for $$$.
Unfortunately, you'll be crawling around under the car, above the exhaust, for that wiring. Not great fun, even if it's not raining.
Unplug the 2nd O2 sensor. The 2 same-color (black?) wires are for the heater. They should measure 15 to 40 ohms between them. Neither one should have any continuity to ground. If it fails this test it's time for a new sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the car does have 125K on it.... maybe its time to look at stuff like this that gets weathered.
I'll wrap the new wire sensor in CoolTape before installing it , since I have that sitting around garage.
Im no stranger to things being more grimey than they have to be
Its something I just accept in the grand scheme of fixing things myself, instead of paying some shop that gonna wanna scam me for $$$.
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Im looking at page 9-5 of the Acura repair manual and it only picture ONE o2 sensor right before the cat? I dont seem to see another o2 sensor, Usually there are two, (pre and post cat?) Am I missing something from the Helms pic?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigDaddyRich »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... only picture ONE o2 sensor right before the cat?</TD></TR></TABLE>Got the wrong year book?

This picture looks like it covers different years, so it's a little funny. The 2nd sensor should be in the cat, towards the outlet (rear). I think your 1st sensor is located in the A-pipe not far upstream of the cat.

This picture looks like it covers different years, so it's a little funny. The 2nd sensor should be in the cat, towards the outlet (rear). I think your 1st sensor is located in the A-pipe not far upstream of the cat.
Well, I looked under the car and sure enough the O2 sensor #2 was pinching between top of CC and underbody of car. I think its been rubbing for a while as the paint around where the sensor was rubbing is completely gone. and sure enough one of the black wires going to the sensor, the insulation is broken and about 3/16" of an inch of wire is exposed and in direct contact with the bare metal spot on body.
I disconnected the o2 sensor from the location on shifter tunnel right behind center console on the floor where the sensor grommet plugs.
I'll run the car for a week and see how it goes while I decide if I should buy an O2 Sim or buy a new o2 sensor to replace the sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... The 2 same-color (black?) wires are for the heater. They should measure 15 to 40 ohms between them. Neither one should have any continuity to ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>There's your short to ground. Maybe you can insulate that wire as a temporary thing, but it gets kinda hot for electrical tape.
Adjust your exhaust hangers & align all the pipes so it doesn't rub any more.
Adjust your exhaust hangers & align all the pipes so it doesn't rub any more.
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