Over the weekend I took off my IM and installed the Outlaw Engineering gasket. ever since I get a CEL 1 (Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor) and after being driven for 20 min or so the car will start to idle high- usually around 3500 RPM or so.

I swapped my primary and secondary sensors and the CEL still comes back so I'm thinking it's not the sensor itself. One time it took a while but normally it come on within a few minutes. When I took off the manifold alot of coolant did drrip down so I'm assuming that wouldn't work well with electronics. Since I swapped O2 sensors and it comes back my fear is something is shorted from the plug up to the wiring harness. Any ideas on how to check/fix this?

As for the idle, I've made sure there's at least 10mm deflection in the throttle cable and the car idles fine until it warms up. Would this be related to the ECU running rich due to not being able to read the primary O2 or is this a different issue. If so any ideas?

Thanks
jeff

 

You sure it's not CEL 10? And if so, you sure you didn't plug the purge valve selenoid plug into the IAT and vice versa?

 

Pretty sure. Looks like a quick flash to me. J00 Think it's the IAT sensor? Tonite I'll unplug the primary O2 sensor and reset the ECU and see. That way I'll definately get CEL 1 so we'll see if I get CEL 10 as well

 

Unplug the IAT sensor 1st, it will burn out over time with the voltage applied to it. Plus it's easier to unplug.

Or you can just check you have right colored wires going to the IAT sensor, although you'll need to consult the helms for that...i don't remember off the top of my head.

If it is the IAT sensor, take it out and see if it's burned, I bought the car with the two plugs reversed and the sensor was a charred mess when I took it out.

 

sounds good
I'll unplug it after lunch and see. Then I'll pull the sensor and examine after work

 

I think the wires going to the IATS are Red/Yellow and Green/Blue.

 

OK I pulled the IAT sensor and reset the ECU. It immediately threw CEL 10 and the flash of the light was definately longer than the flash I was seeing this morning.

 

back to square one

unplug and plug back in the primary o2 sensor?

 

LOL
Yeah,tried that 2 days ago. Even took my secondary O2 and plugged it in as primary and still get CEL 1

 

y0y0 jeff!
make sure one (or more than one) of the wires to your primary o2 plug/harness is not loose or completely out. I had this problem once, same code, ran awful (dumping fuel).

 

Jeff, try to check your fuses and see if the one for the primary o2 got blown when coolant spilled on it..... just a thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y0y0 jeff!
make sure one (or more than one) of the wires to your primary o2 plug/harness is not loose or completely out. I had this problem once, same code, ran awful (dumping fuel).</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's up Chris!!
Can you describe how yours ran? Mine 'feels' fine when in gear it just seems to idle high.

Kenny. I'll check the fuses after 5

Also, I forgot to mention earlier that when I let off the clutch the car would roll forward around 1500 Rpm and the RPMs would creep up to what it was idleing at (3500 or so) with my foot off the gas. It was like driving an automatic. Is this consistent with primary O2 issues or something else? I keep going back to seeing if I messed up the throttle cable but it runs fine at first. *shrug*

 

WHen i took off my stock header, I accidentally slipped and the wires came out of the harness (as the primary o2 was still on the header).

When i put them back on with the new header, I did not push one of the wiers in far enough. I got CEL 1 and my car appeared to be in limp mode ( I did not even try to go past normal RPM's as I could tell something was wrong)... dumping fuel, and feeling very bogged down. i.e., not responsive, very sluggish. back bumper was very blackened too. Mmmm.. Cajun blackened bumper. The car would idle high (not as high as j00) and I could tell fairly quickly that my gas mileage was pure **** compared to normal.

When i plugged the wires into the harness with a bit more forza, all was fine. Same thing happens when you plug them in the wrong location, ask me how I know that

 

Try something simple. Unplug/replug the negative terminal to your battery, and/or reset your ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try something simple. Unplug/replug the negative terminal to your battery, and/or reset your ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've disconnected the neg terminal or pulled the backup fuse many, many times. The CEL normally returns after 2-3 min.

 

Issue 1# I looked at all the fuses and they checked out OK. I looked at the wires going to the plug for the O2 sensor and they looked OK to me. I tried to push them into the plug a bit more from the top of the engine bay but didn't feel like they were loose. I could see all 4 wires. I'll read in teh Helms now and see if I can figure where they go and check there. Any other idears/suggestions?

Issue 2# The high RPMS are caused by the throttle cable not returing to 100% closed- like the spring mechanism isn't back all the way. I was easier on the revs on the way home and when i got in the parking lot I popped the hood and revved it to 3k and it idled around 2500ish. I pushed on the throttle lever to the closed position and the revs dropped. I'm actually reading the TB section of the helms right now so I guess I'll check the throttle link, stop screw etc and see if I can figure out why it doesn't go to the full closed position after I accelerate. I'll tinker tommorrow and post what I find etc.

 

I fixed the high idle. Moving the spring back on the throttle lever gave the spring more tension and now it closes the TB fully when I let off the gas. So no more poor man's automatic

As for the Primary O2 sensor... still checking *shrug*