long story short, I was driving on the freeway when my timing belt snapped. hopefully I have no bent valves. anyways, what should I replace with the timing belt? I know for sure I'm gonna replace the timing belt and water pump. how about the balancer shaft belt? should I also replace the auto tensioner with a new one? I'm not really in the mood to do the auto-to-manual conversion cause I need my car up and running by next week.

another question is if I take off the head, should I replace the head bolts also? you guys that have done this, can I just re-use them?


Modified by Honda Sport at 8:34 PM 4/4/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Sport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">long story short, I was driving on the freeway when my timing belt snapped. hopefully I have no bent valves. anyways, what should I replace with the timing belt? I know for sure I'm gonna replace the timing belt and water pump. how about the balancer belt? should I also replace the auto tensioner with a new one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, I'm gonna go out on a very fragile limb and assume that your pistons didn't smack the **** out of your valves. switch out the auto tensioner for a manual one, its not a big deal. and get rid of the balancer belt altogether.


Modified by dreamer at 3:54 PM 4/4/2005

 

Why would you remove the bance shaft belt?

 

where would i find a manual tension adjuster for an H22? and you can get rid of the balancer belt altogether to reduce the rotating mass and free up a couple of HP, but a lot of people advise against it due to longetivity concerns. me included. unless its more of a race motor than a street motor, in which case the power offsets the wear issues.

 

nevermind, i searched. great writeup 2point6!

 

meh. I'm not at all convinced that the balancer shafts prolong the life of the crank. I think its just a comfort issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dreamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">meh. I'm not at all convinced that the balancer shafts prolong the life of the crank. I think its just a comfort issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is correct.

 

you can use a manual tensioner from a H23.

brad

 

get the auto tensioner and belt as a kit per a service bulliten. it will save you a lot of money as opposed to buying them seperate.

i would also strongly suggest that you replace your 2 cam, crank and balance shaft seals along with the o-ring on the rear balance gear assembly. also replace the water pump.

check your idlers for noise. it also wouldnt hurt to put on a balnce shaft seal retainer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it also wouldnt hurt to put on a balnce shaft seal retainer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
gah! SOO true..

seriously the auto to manual tentioner conversion takes like 5 minutes literally, and if you have an upgraded valve train or cams you should go to the manual tentioner

the auto tentioner even when functioning right , with an after market head setup the belt get over tentioned due to the timing blet "flapping" that cams or stiffer springs makes. the tentioner then gets too tight and can cause the blet to snap

also if you don't have a reason too , don't replace the stock head bolts , no reason in my opinion

 

how long did it take you guys to change everything out? it's freezing cold in my garage, dont' wanna spend too much time in there if I dont' have to.

 

too bad, that balancer shaft belt helps relieve the vibrations via the balancer shafts, thus not wearing on your front/rear main seals...u know why DSM's ger crank walk? the front and rear seals wear.

leave it on theres no reason not to. you will want to do the TB and WP and maybe the tensioner too if you feel like it. now is also a great time to install cams or timing gears since you got the belt off anyways. also maybe consider camseals. and check out your oil pump, not somthing that often goes out but not that expensive to replace as well. and for this one, use the honda dealer's timing belt, nothing beats a honda belt/gasket, but the rest, like the WP i would get a cheep one.

 

thanks for the suggestions guys. I just got an OEM TB, WP, and balancer shaft belt just incase. I might have to return the shaft belt if it's not worn. thanks to littogpimp for the homie hook up from honda.

so anybody with a time frame of how long it took them to do a timing belt/water pump?

 

u should probably check and make sure that you didnt bend any valves before you go through all this. most people whose timing belt snapped usually end up with bent valves, so most likely u did, esp since it was on the freeway.

 

hopefully I didn't. I'm going to do a compression test and a leakdown after I finish up. it's no biggie for me to do the timing belt and water pump, I'm gonna eventually have to do it anyways.

 

a few more questions, how did you guys take off the crankshaft bolt/pulley? I don't have an impact and I've tried taking it off by having somebody press on the brake. any suggestions? also, how did you guys lower the engine enough to take off the lower timing belt cover? I've already taken off the driverside mount and it doesn't seem like I still don't have enough clearance.

 

u shouldnt have to lower the motor at all, jsut finess/manhandle it out.


as for the crank pully...does it have like 2 holes drilled in it or is tehre a 6 sided hole that looks like a gigantic nut should fit in?? if the 2 holes go to schucks and rent harmonic balancer puller...if the big 6 sided hole, you got 2 choices, and that brakes thing wont work...either go to honda and buy a crank pully holder tool (its only made by honda) or take off the fly wheel timing cover, and wedge a pry bar in the ring gear of the flywheel and hold it steady and crack the nut free...use a huge breaker bar 1/2in drive atleast and a cheater bar...then use your leg...it will come free it just takes one hell of a lot of work

 

crap, you sure that there's enough room to pull out the lower cover? this is in a 4th gen prelude(SUPER CRAMPED engine bay! ).

I just called up my buddy and he has a crank pulley holder (hexagon key). gonna go pick it up in a few mins.

 

alright, finally got the crank pulley off. side note, I freakin chipped a lil bit off the edge of the crank pulley when I pulled it off, is it ok to reuse it?

now I'm stuck on the lower cover. how do I get it off? it says in the helms not to take off the adjusting nut but that's what it seems to be getting stuck on when I'm trying to pull it off. man is this a big headache. anybody have suggestions?

 

anybody?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Sport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
now I'm stuck on the lower cover. how do I get it off? it says in the helms not to take off the adjusting nut but that's what it seems to be getting stuck on when I'm trying to pull it off. man is this a big headache. anybody have suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a rubber washer that goes aroung the adjusting nut, pull that
out and take off all of the 10mm screws and it should come off.

If your crank pulley is chipped, you probably should start looking for a new one.

 

finished it all up. actually a lot easier then I thought. thanks for all the help guys.

side note: the car still runs strong *knock on wood*. I'm going to do a compression test and leakdown test as soon as I get back to school.

 

update:

240 240 240 240

awesome compression all the way across