I can not get this thing to go away i have reset ecu 5 times and have put in my intake tubing to my turbo to see if that would help still nothing. This is a 2000 honda civic si that was converted to obd1. I also think this light is making my vtec not work. when i jump the service connector all i get is 1 long flash wich would be code 10 i guess wich is an IAT problem. Anybody know what i could do. It is my final problem with my turbo setup i need to get worked out.

 

This isn't a turbo related problem. I belongs in another forum. But for you answer you didn't have a auto car do you? If so you might need to convert the three wire to a two wire IAC.

 

Not auto its a 2000 civic si turbo. Im pretty sure its IAT though since i checked the code. Sorry if not in right forum im working the bugs out of my turbo system and this is where i always look i guess it was in my head turbo related. Can be moved if needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pro547 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This isn't a turbo related problem. I belongs in another forum. But for you answer you didn't have a auto car do you? If so you might need to convert the three wire to a two wire IAC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont some manual tranny EKs have 3 wire IACs?

 

check the resistance of the IAT and compare it to the factory specs

 

See what gets me is that it just worked fine before converting to the obd1 ecu.

 

here's an option.. take out the IAT sensor and visually look it over.. if the tip looks melted, then u need a new sensor..

for some reason, whenever I got an IAT CEL, it was because the tip on sensor melted and screwed up the sensor..

 

The thing looks brand new visually... its driving me nuts i guess i could buy a new one and see maybe it got banged up during my turbo install or something my car only has 27k on it too but not that that matters its just weird.

 

if it was fine before then swap the obd2 ecu back in and just idle the car, dont drive it since you probably have bigger injectors in it

 

i think something may be messed up with my iat on my obd2-1 converted civic as well. Mine doesn't throw a cel, but when datalogging with uber it reads temps that are way too low. Like once i get driving it reads around 55 degrees

 

i just tested to and got like 2.4 ohms resistance and thats about right i should get 2.4 at 68 degrees and thats about what it is in my haouse right now

 

do you have vtec? I do not think mine works it should kick in at 4900 i have it set at and i dont hear or feel ****

 

yes i have vtec. Are you sure that you have it enabled? What ems are you using?

 

uberdata. I am very sure its enabled should i have the vtec less than 20 checked to this is driving me nuts. I have the map i burned on it right here and it says i have it enabled

 

i don't have vtec&lt;20 enabled and mine is working fine. Do you have closed loop enabled? Doesn't the IAT sensor only effect the way the car runs when you are in closed loop?

 

on mine i have close loop enabled maybe i should disable it and see what happens

 

if its the harness then just ohm out the wire
its not that bard
find the pinout on the obd2 harness and then trace the wire and ohm out conversion harness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Treblarefils &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on mine i have close loop enabled maybe i should disable it and see what happens </TD></TR></TABLE>
who knows you can give it a try. You probably don't want to be running with closed loop enabled anyways if your iat is bad. Make sure you tune your part throttle maps though or your fuel mileage is gonna blow.

 

the IAT un uberdata isnt scaled for 450's anyways so it doesnt really matter

 

i figured it out i hought i was supposed to have knock sensor enabled on my converted p28 i unchecked knock sensor and it all works no lights now. Im new at this uberdata stuff i understand it just dont know what all the functions do and what does what with what. Another question i am running cold plugs with .30 gap as reccommended by some people on here. Now when it gets hot and i shut her down the car doesnt seem to want to start back up should i raise the gap a lil more?

 

yup having the knock sensor checked will do that to ya.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Treblarefils &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just tested to and got like 2.4 ohms resistance and thats about right i should get 2.4 at 68 degrees and thats about what it is in my haouse right now</TD></TR></TABLE>

This isn't right, not according to the data I have.

212* = 250 ohm
68* = 3k ohm
0* = 15k ohm

Did you mean 2.4k?

 

lol yeah thats what i meant i just read it off my self adjusting multimeter it matched what was in my book for testing procedure and it just so happened it was around 68 degrees and 68 degrees is what the spec i had was for i blew on it and the reading changed the way its supposed to. I have it all worked out now i was freaking because the IAT was just hanging there so i didnt know what to do with it and thought that was the cause of all my problems... ended up being a knock sensor enabled on a knock sensorless uberdata p28.

 

one step colder should be fine, try priming the fuel first

 

i have a 95 delsol w/ 95 gsr jrsc. I keep poping the code 10 and i have a very erratic idle surge problem. i have tested the IAT...results= 1.676k ohms, test the plug and both wires tested ok to 4.98v. The IAT sensor visually looks fine, no signs of melting or visual imperfections.

I have tried everything in these threads:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199975

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1164884

and i have had no luck.

Can a bad IAT cause the idle to surge from 1000-3000????