Ok, I go to fit my Turbo today and I ran into a problem. From what I can tell, I need to grind out about a 1/2" more aluminum for the turbo to fit. Problem being, I don't have any more metal to grind off. The inlet of the turbo is already resting against the block. Hopefully, I'm just way to f*cking tired right now, and overlooked something. I've got another 1/8" worth of metal I could take out, but that seems to be it.
rigging:
RevHard Mani
run of the mill t3/t4

 

Clock the turbo, It makes a differnce!

I made this same mistake......

Eric

 

you running a tang. housing? may have to go to an oncenter housing to clear it.

 

if clocking the turbo doesn't work... was your turbo inlet meant to face the driver side?

 

something wrong, don't cut anymore, it looks like you have a on center housing on it, you need a tang housing

 

I would flip it around and have the compressor on the driver's side... less hassle IMO...

You might not have any other options...

 

You can shave more off. I have seen blocks shaved all the way down to where the block code is just "B" - rather then B18C.

 

You still can shave more off. I had to on 2 of my setups.

 

Mine is shaved down alot more than that.

And since you are using a Rev-Hard manifold im assuming you'r using a Rev-Hard downpipe, so if you turned the compressor to the drivers side you would have to get a new downpipe.

 

I've tried clocking the housing with no success. I've also tried pointing the intake towards the drivers side, but the exhaust housing then hits the radiator....
Seriously...WTF!

Am I looking at getting a different Mani? I already removed the A/C so....

 

are you hitting that plug?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOUNDEFFECTS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">something wrong, don't cut anymore, it looks like you have a on center housing on it, you need a tang housing</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a T3 turbo, and to the best of my knowledge there are no different on center or tang T3 housings.

 

On my revhard kit I had this same problem and had to use a cast spacer between the mani and head to get it to fit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XSIintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've tried clocking the housing with no success. I've also tried pointing the intake towards the drivers side, but the exhaust housing then hits the radiator....
Seriously...WTF!

Am I looking at getting a different Mani? I already removed the A/C so....</TD></TR></TABLE>

get a half size radiator

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you hitting that plug?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I've got about a 1/8" space from that plug. The Inlet is touching before the plug.
I'm not Kosher with cutting into the block much more. Sure I could shave off another 1/8", but that still leaves me out 3/8" and I hate the idea of have the intake stuffed right into the side of the block.
Where would I get a spacer? Are you talking about using a something like a flange for building manifolds?
Its either that, or go w/ a civic radiator, which would make life rather simple. And being that this is going on a DA with a huge front crossmember, reverse mounting would make the DP even easier to run.

 

thats not a rev hard manifold thats a drag you can tell by the wastegate is more to the center on a rev hard

 

tight fit.

i might clock it to get a better outlet for the IC piping.

 

clocking it any other direction only makes the problem worse. I've got the smallest part of the housing against the engine right now.

 

Well, make it fit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC_andrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On my revhard kit I had this same problem and had to use a cast spacer between the mani and head to get it to fit.</TD></TR></TABLE>5

this is what i would do...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC_andrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On my revhard kit I had this same problem and had to use a cast spacer between the mani and head to get it to fit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
please post a picture of your setup..... i want to see how it looks with the spacer....

 

Well, I'm probably going to go ahead and switch to a civic radiator and just flip the turbo.
Before I do that, I would like to see any pix w/ a spacer used or pix of someone with the same setup, showing how much the cut out of the block.

 

have you thought about using a head flange as a spacer and just getting longer studs?? i've got a 3/8's cnc'ed one if you need it. pm me if so or steal one of your friend's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XSIintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I'm probably going to go ahead and switch to a civic radiator and just flip the turbo.
Before I do that, I would like to see any pix w/ a spacer used or pix of someone with the same setup, showing how much the cut out of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this route is going to be your best bet for fitment purposes. and you will have a shorter downpipe

 

I would turn the turbo around so the compressor is on the drivers side..