88 hf crx with 91 d16a6 problems
first off, im new here, im from memphis, and im having troubles getting this 88 crx hf right. ive been in multiple honda/crx forums, and nobody has really helped me yet. to help clarify- i put a 91 d16a6 with pm-6 hf-4 intake, i put the si ecu from a 5-speed, and converted the map sensor( as told by a link i was referred to, but ive also used the hf map, as told by someone different). i swapped the two outer wires on the tps sensor, as directed, and im pretty sure that the vaccum lines are correct. im positive there are no leaks(someone tried convincing me there was a leak), when i start the car it idles very low and jumpy, never over 500 rpms, and dies after a few secs. my ecu is flashing 3 (manifold absolute pressure),the car does the same if the map sensor is disconnected but ive tried three different ones( two si's and the hf). also, i have a sensor on the si intake that has no home on the hf harness, does this matter?


this is the sensor that is not connected
any help is greatly appreciated


this is the sensor that is not connected
any help is greatly appreciated
why did you use the hf manifold? you should have used the manifold off of the a6. if you used the si ecu you you should have not had to convert anything but the distributor. also make sure that you have good + manifold vacuum. hope that helps!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lewsscroos_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i swapped the two outer wires on the tps sensor </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why did you swap the tps wires? You only do that on a dpfi-mpfi swap, try switching those wires back the way they were...
Why did you swap the tps wires? You only do that on a dpfi-mpfi swap, try switching those wires back the way they were...
i had a few people tell me to swap them(the tps wires), guess i should correct them(the people that told me)?
as for the manifold, it is the one that came with the si motor, pm-6 hf-4 is the code on the back of the intake that came on the si motor.
about the motor being messed up, when i first put it all together it started and revved fine, but after a few starts it seemed to go downhill, and then i started messing with wires, yet further downhill.
im messing with the car right now and will swap the wires and see what happens.
thanx for everyones help!
as for the manifold, it is the one that came with the si motor, pm-6 hf-4 is the code on the back of the intake that came on the si motor.
about the motor being messed up, when i first put it all together it started and revved fine, but after a few starts it seemed to go downhill, and then i started messing with wires, yet further downhill.
im messing with the car right now and will swap the wires and see what happens.
thanx for everyones help!
no, its my left hand pointing with a really bright light to the right of the pic, it was night time when i took ppics. it does look funny though
another lil update: i put the tps wires back and still the same. i put a 91 pm-6 ecu on(from auto), same, and even tried my hf ecu, when i put my good ecu back on the car wont start, could it be flooded ?. im getting gas to the fuel rail, and had a weak sparkwith a screwdriver in the spark plug wire touching on the valve cover. i never messed with timing, it should be correct, as for the distributor, i think i remember using the hf one because it matched the hf harness. is this my problem?
btw- i did this swap nearly two years agoand have had the car jsut sitting there waiting on me to get the initiative to work on it. i finally decide its time, but im not getting any more progress. i want the car running but am not having luck, my anger problem will most likely lead to thecar sittnig around again for a while.
does any body have a link to a walkthrough of this swap. ive searched the sight but cant find anything relative(maybe just me)
another lil update: i put the tps wires back and still the same. i put a 91 pm-6 ecu on(from auto), same, and even tried my hf ecu, when i put my good ecu back on the car wont start, could it be flooded ?. im getting gas to the fuel rail, and had a weak sparkwith a screwdriver in the spark plug wire touching on the valve cover. i never messed with timing, it should be correct, as for the distributor, i think i remember using the hf one because it matched the hf harness. is this my problem?
btw- i did this swap nearly two years agoand have had the car jsut sitting there waiting on me to get the initiative to work on it. i finally decide its time, but im not getting any more progress. i want the car running but am not having luck, my anger problem will most likely lead to thecar sittnig around again for a while.
does any body have a link to a walkthrough of this swap. ive searched the sight but cant find anything relative(maybe just me)
Trending Topics
i know that reading through this forum that ive seen several topics about hf to si conversion. i know that im not that important to everybody but i do want my crx back running and admit that i cant do it at this point in time with the knowledge that i have about my car. ive come this far and really had hoped that there was somebody that could help me out! is there ANYBODY that can contribute some worthwhile info or am i wasting my time on this P-O-S honda. please, any body that has ANY hands on or that knows somebody/ something about this swap. any body heard from someone about common problems with the swap. AGAIN- any info is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OptimusPrimeX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone correct me if i'm wrong.. but you should be using the Si d16a6 distributor for the D16a6 head... and not the HF.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
HF and Si distributors are exactly the same - the extra sensor on the Si manifold is Fast Idle Control Valve and is not needed, just make sure to block off vacuum lines - make sure you have the right connectors at all of the sensors
HF and Si distributors are exactly the same - the extra sensor on the Si manifold is Fast Idle Control Valve and is not needed, just make sure to block off vacuum lines - make sure you have the right connectors at all of the sensors
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From: I told you to wait in the truck in Texas, United States
The following info is something that I read and saved because
I have an HF shell that I plan on doing something with...
[So I am not sure of the accuracy of the following statement:]
'The HF harness has a couple of things that you don't need. You will neet to cut the wire at B9 and B11 on the ECU plug. B9 tells the ECU the tranny is in reverse and B11 tells the ECU the clutch is disengaged. This is "HF only" stuff and will freak out other ECU's. I had to do this with my LS swap and PR4 ECU to get the check engine light to go out.'
I have an HF shell that I plan on doing something with...
[So I am not sure of the accuracy of the following statement:]
'The HF harness has a couple of things that you don't need. You will neet to cut the wire at B9 and B11 on the ECU plug. B9 tells the ECU the tranny is in reverse and B11 tells the ECU the clutch is disengaged. This is "HF only" stuff and will freak out other ECU's. I had to do this with my LS swap and PR4 ECU to get the check engine light to go out.'
Put the tPS wires back.
Use an SI map sensor
Don't worry about the FICSV (the one u are pointing at that isn't pluged in)
check your timing, then adjust for idle
I'll get back to you on the code 3
It should rune fine after that.
Use an SI map sensor
Don't worry about the FICSV (the one u are pointing at that isn't pluged in)
check your timing, then adjust for idle
I'll get back to you on the code 3
It should rune fine after that.
check the wiring on the map sensor and use the map sensor for the a6(SI) model. You should be set after that. DON'T use the Auto ecu... only use the a6 ecu. Also, don't cut the wires like 88dxcrx said.
I have a b16 in my hf, I had to cut those wires, because the car would die as soon as I hit reverse. If I can find them I will look up all the wiring diagrams from the cars. What year is your hf and what year did the engine and ecu come from. Btw I am only a few hours away from you.
ive got an 88hf rex, with a 91 hatch d16a6(auto), 89 si ecu
EDIT:the car was auto. i didnt know if that info would change anything on the intake or not, i didnt put an automatic transmission in this body, sorry for any confusions!
i got it to start up today,but it only putted a few times before dying, and barely responded to pushing the gas( <100 rpm's)
ive rechecked all my splices, the ecu is NOT throwing any codes, and i made sure that the cam pulley and crank pulley were both on tdc, tried distributor in every position, again,
the only things in my head that i can think could be a problem(ive been told these were fine though)are that i still have the hf o2 sensor, and that i used the hf crank pulley beacuse the si's was like 10lbs heavier(pretty much solid), are the timing marks different between the 2 pulleys?
Modified by lewsscroos_ at 7:14 PM 4/5/2005
EDIT:the car was auto. i didnt know if that info would change anything on the intake or not, i didnt put an automatic transmission in this body, sorry for any confusions!
i got it to start up today,but it only putted a few times before dying, and barely responded to pushing the gas( <100 rpm's)
ive rechecked all my splices, the ecu is NOT throwing any codes, and i made sure that the cam pulley and crank pulley were both on tdc, tried distributor in every position, again,
the only things in my head that i can think could be a problem(ive been told these were fine though)are that i still have the hf o2 sensor, and that i used the hf crank pulley beacuse the si's was like 10lbs heavier(pretty much solid), are the timing marks different between the 2 pulleys?
Modified by lewsscroos_ at 7:14 PM 4/5/2005
adjust ur idle.
u need a timing light in order to set the timing.
the pullies are the same.
FYI: D16a6's never came auto, dx engines came auto so you should have a 5 speed unless you swapped it. If you did, then there in lies part of your problem. You should use a 5 speed with the d16a6 ecu. auto won't work. How in the hell can you put a auto in a hf? hf's are 5 speed also.
Somethings not right here.
u need a timing light in order to set the timing.
the pullies are the same.
FYI: D16a6's never came auto, dx engines came auto so you should have a 5 speed unless you swapped it. If you did, then there in lies part of your problem. You should use a 5 speed with the d16a6 ecu. auto won't work. How in the hell can you put a auto in a hf? hf's are 5 speed also.
Somethings not right here.
no no no, the 91civic hatchback in the junkyard(thats where i got this motor,) was automatic, ive still got the 5spd hf tranny in the rex, i just had to swap flywheels and put the clutch on first.
i went and bought a brand new compression gauge, and each cylinder read right at 100,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well part of ur problem is that ur goin to need a 5 speed tranny because u can't put a auto on unless u get the auto ecu and shifter. </TD></TR></TABLE>
to CLARIFY....... ive got a 91 d16a6 connected to an 88 hf tranny(5speed), im not trying to build an auto., i got the motor FROM an automatic shell. i didnt get the tranny, just the motor!!!!!!!!!i dont know what your misunderstanding, but your confusing me. am i wrong?
one more update: when i pulled the spark plugs(after turning motor over), #1 was black and wet with gas, #2 was dry but black, #'s 3&4 were also black and wet with fuel. im gonna buy a new cap/rotor tomorrow, but if i cant get this car running after that, im just gonna start fixin my 78 nova and say to hell with hondas till i feel like messin with it again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well part of ur problem is that ur goin to need a 5 speed tranny because u can't put a auto on unless u get the auto ecu and shifter. </TD></TR></TABLE>
to CLARIFY....... ive got a 91 d16a6 connected to an 88 hf tranny(5speed), im not trying to build an auto., i got the motor FROM an automatic shell. i didnt get the tranny, just the motor!!!!!!!!!i dont know what your misunderstanding, but your confusing me. am i wrong?
one more update: when i pulled the spark plugs(after turning motor over), #1 was black and wet with gas, #2 was dry but black, #'s 3&4 were also black and wet with fuel. im gonna buy a new cap/rotor tomorrow, but if i cant get this car running after that, im just gonna start fixin my 78 nova and say to hell with hondas till i feel like messin with it again.
cant let the engine warm up because the damn thing wont run, sooooooooo, id say the compression is ruled out just because the cylinders held such a high compression. it stopped throwing code 3 , but just a few time s while i was messin with it, i got a code 9. YES, i made sure the crank pulley and cam pulley were both in tdc.
my concern now is why are my plugs(#1,3,4) allwet with gas? but not #2? does this mean no spark?(and that only #2 is firing, causing the blub, blub, blub type idle) i tried an si distributor, but still had my cap/wires, they seemed decent but im gonna replace them before i mess with it again. no difference with the dist. swapped out.
one more experiment i tried, i took the dead sensor(the one pictured above) completely out and tried it. with the leak in the back of the manifold it actually stayed idling, but if i stuck my finger over it and sealed it off, the motor dies.that makes me wonder about too much fuel maybe? i have no air duct or filter on at this time, only a clean wrag ziptied over the throttle body opening, and ive tried without anything at all. why is the motor starving of air?
my concern now is why are my plugs(#1,3,4) allwet with gas? but not #2? does this mean no spark?(and that only #2 is firing, causing the blub, blub, blub type idle) i tried an si distributor, but still had my cap/wires, they seemed decent but im gonna replace them before i mess with it again. no difference with the dist. swapped out.
one more experiment i tried, i took the dead sensor(the one pictured above) completely out and tried it. with the leak in the back of the manifold it actually stayed idling, but if i stuck my finger over it and sealed it off, the motor dies.that makes me wonder about too much fuel maybe? i have no air duct or filter on at this time, only a clean wrag ziptied over the throttle body opening, and ive tried without anything at all. why is the motor starving of air?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lewsscroos_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i got a code 9. YES, i made sure the crank pulley and cam pulley were both in tdc.?</TD></TR></TABLE>
When u replaced the dist... did the code go away? Code was thrown cause of tdc in dist.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lewsscroos_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my concern now is why are my plugs(#1,3,4) allwet with gas? but not #2? does this mean no spark?(and that only #2 is firing, causing the blub, blub, blub type idle) i tried an si distributor, but still had my cap/wires, they seemed decent but im gonna replace them before i mess with it again. no difference with the dist. swapped out.?
i have no air duct or filter on at this time, only a clean wrag ziptied over the throttle body opening, and ive tried without anything at all. why is the motor starving of air?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol, Why is it starved for air? take off the rag... lol. just leave it off for test purposes. there black cause they are leaking some oil or something. fuel could be possible fuel injectors are open. its probably not fuel but just smells like it.
If you took out the eacv, the thing needs to be cleaned. FICVS won't do jack. It doesn't turn on unless its really cold. below 30.
When u replaced the dist... did the code go away? Code was thrown cause of tdc in dist.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lewsscroos_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my concern now is why are my plugs(#1,3,4) allwet with gas? but not #2? does this mean no spark?(and that only #2 is firing, causing the blub, blub, blub type idle) i tried an si distributor, but still had my cap/wires, they seemed decent but im gonna replace them before i mess with it again. no difference with the dist. swapped out.?
i have no air duct or filter on at this time, only a clean wrag ziptied over the throttle body opening, and ive tried without anything at all. why is the motor starving of air?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol, Why is it starved for air? take off the rag... lol. just leave it off for test purposes. there black cause they are leaking some oil or something. fuel could be possible fuel injectors are open. its probably not fuel but just smells like it.
If you took out the eacv, the thing needs to be cleaned. FICVS won't do jack. It doesn't turn on unless its really cold. below 30.
the code was only thrown a few times and it did stop but not because the new dist., because we got it into a spot that stopped throwing the code, i guess.
the wrag im using is not the problem, TRUST ME, ive had it off, it doesnt change a thing. it was just a temporary filter to keep leaves/ other large debris. in my opinion a regular air filter would restrict airflow a lot more thatn the thin wrag i used.
the black on my plugs is not oil, it IS gas, im not that stupid, i can tell the difference between oil and gas, my point about the plugs is that it seems that the fuel is not burning in 3 of my cylinders, the left out plug looks like every other plug ive pulled from any motor.
about the injectors staying open, what would cause this?
next idea?
the wrag im using is not the problem, TRUST ME, ive had it off, it doesnt change a thing. it was just a temporary filter to keep leaves/ other large debris. in my opinion a regular air filter would restrict airflow a lot more thatn the thin wrag i used.
the black on my plugs is not oil, it IS gas, im not that stupid, i can tell the difference between oil and gas, my point about the plugs is that it seems that the fuel is not burning in 3 of my cylinders, the left out plug looks like every other plug ive pulled from any motor.
about the injectors staying open, what would cause this?
next idea?



