power lock questions
anyone put aftermarket power locks in their ef? if so could someone post a picture of how the actuators are mounted. i know hwo they are supposed to go but my locks didnt come with instructions, so i just want to see what other ppl have done. also, it seems as though my drivers side lock will only lock if i pull on the door handle lightly. seems as though a lot of drivers side doors do this, so im wondering why is that, and the power locks wont lock correctly unless i pull up on the handle.
There are many ways to mount them. take apart the door and you'll figure out the best way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sirq2u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you don't lock your keys in the car...</TD></TR></TABLE>
that doesnt make any sense. im saying.. before i get out of my car, i opent he door, flip the lock (from the inside) and it will never completely lock unless i use my finger or something and slightly pull on the door handle (the inside one) then the locking mechanism will completely lock. its been like that on my other crx also, and like that on a bunch of my friends. anyone know why?
so with that..im saying, if i have auto locks, i get out of my car, close the door, attempt to lock it (using remote) and it wont lock because i would have to be pulling on the handle. get it?
that doesnt make any sense. im saying.. before i get out of my car, i opent he door, flip the lock (from the inside) and it will never completely lock unless i use my finger or something and slightly pull on the door handle (the inside one) then the locking mechanism will completely lock. its been like that on my other crx also, and like that on a bunch of my friends. anyone know why?
so with that..im saying, if i have auto locks, i get out of my car, close the door, attempt to lock it (using remote) and it wont lock because i would have to be pulling on the handle. get it?
it is like that on all Honda's...they made it that way so you have to lock it from the outside....the passenger side locks just fine for the inside..but the driver side you pull it then lock it..or lock for the outside..
unless you have power-locks..
unless you have power-locks..
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the driver side door will lock from the inside as long as you pull the handle or you can lock it from inside or outside as long as the door is closed so if you install an actuator it will lock as long as the door is closed. I have them in my car working with my alarm I'll take pics tomorrow for you no digi cam right now
ok i understand. thanks , yeah take some pics , i know what it shoudl loook like but i want to see a picture. also, do u know which wire is positive and which is negative? i have these http://img.photobucket.com/alb...s.jpg
hey thanks for doing that 4 me, that pic sort of confuses me, im not too smart when it comes to those types of things. i mean i can wire up some things but im not sure about that drawing. so i need to buy some relays? two?
Here are two photos that show what I did;


Here is a link to the whole write-up. It's rather long due to also covering how I installed power windows.
http://www.performanceforum.co....html
There is a fair amount of "strangeness" in honda door locks and I think a lot of it is due to the design that prevents you from locking the door if it still is open. When doing any testing, make sure the door is solidly closed!!!
Wes


Here is a link to the whole write-up. It's rather long due to also covering how I installed power windows.
http://www.performanceforum.co....html
There is a fair amount of "strangeness" in honda door locks and I think a lot of it is due to the design that prevents you from locking the door if it still is open. When doing any testing, make sure the door is solidly closed!!!
Wes
yeah you need Relays unless the alarm has built in relays. Just buy the relays and use the terminal numbers on them (85,86,87a,87,30) they'll be numbered and just wire them like in the schematic.
As Jester88Si said, Bosch relays have the numbers printed in the relay's body. Just print out a couple copies of the diagram above and do one wire at a time. Use a high-lighting pen to cross out each wire as you go.
You have to verify with the alarm manufacturer if the unit has relays within it already!! Don't just trust the word of somebody that may not really know. You don't want to damage the unit.
Wes
You have to verify with the alarm manufacturer if the unit has relays within it already!! Don't just trust the word of somebody that may not really know. You don't want to damage the unit.
Wes
print out the diagram and follow with me.
For the discussion, let's say that the color of the two wires coming out of the actuator are green and yellow.
To get the actuator to lock; you need 12 volts on the yellow wire and ground on the green wire.
To get the actuator to un-lock; you need 12 volts on the green wire and ground on the yellow wire.
If you are not doing anything (at rest), then both wires can be at ground and the actuator will not move.
Pins 85 and 86 are to the coil within the relay and it doesn't matter which way the current goes to "pick" the relay.
Pin 30 is the output of the relay.
Pin 87a is the "NC" or normally closed contact (or input). When the relay isn't picked, this goes to the output (pin 30)
Pin 87 is the "NO" or normally open contact (or input). When the relay is picked, this goes to the output (pin 30)
In normal operation, you would only pick one relay at a time.
At rest, both relays connect ground to the outputs (which go to the actuator).
When you pick one of them, it sends 12 volts on it's line to the actuator, while the other relay (still at rest) sends ground.
I hope that clears it all up!!
Wes
For the discussion, let's say that the color of the two wires coming out of the actuator are green and yellow.
To get the actuator to lock; you need 12 volts on the yellow wire and ground on the green wire.
To get the actuator to un-lock; you need 12 volts on the green wire and ground on the yellow wire.
If you are not doing anything (at rest), then both wires can be at ground and the actuator will not move.
Pins 85 and 86 are to the coil within the relay and it doesn't matter which way the current goes to "pick" the relay.
Pin 30 is the output of the relay.
Pin 87a is the "NC" or normally closed contact (or input). When the relay isn't picked, this goes to the output (pin 30)
Pin 87 is the "NO" or normally open contact (or input). When the relay is picked, this goes to the output (pin 30)
In normal operation, you would only pick one relay at a time.
At rest, both relays connect ground to the outputs (which go to the actuator).
When you pick one of them, it sends 12 volts on it's line to the actuator, while the other relay (still at rest) sends ground.
I hope that clears it all up!!
Wes
ok i understand now i thought that when the relays were "off" 87 and 87a were switched together.
when i made my kill switch and used these relays i didnt need to use 87a so it didnt matter.
thanks wes.
when i made my kill switch and used these relays i didnt need to use 87a so it didnt matter.
thanks wes.
it will lock just fine with door shut, go hop inside your car, shut door, and lock the drivers side. you don't pull the handle while it is latched to lock it, only when it's unlatched you have to pull handle at the same time
I think vipers have built in relays check the installation manual to find out whats what...I should mention though when it has built in relays you wont be able to add on a switch to control the locks only the alarm will control them. It will pretty much be the same as wiring up standard relays only they eliminate the the actual trigger wires (86 and 85) which will be controlled inside of the alarm.
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Calavera
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