BAD BATTERY ?
hello,
I have a few questions about a 98 v6 At Accord for my friend. while he was driving last night, his car just died on him and he had to stop and restarted it, then he could continues driving again. This has happened many times from the last couple days. The engine also went off by it self after he started the car and put it in D (drive) gear to drive. At first, we thought the battery might be bad, but I think it might not be because he doesn't have any problems about starting the car. Any one has any ideas whats wrong with this Accord? please give us some advise, thanks.
I have a few questions about a 98 v6 At Accord for my friend. while he was driving last night, his car just died on him and he had to stop and restarted it, then he could continues driving again. This has happened many times from the last couple days. The engine also went off by it self after he started the car and put it in D (drive) gear to drive. At first, we thought the battery might be bad, but I think it might not be because he doesn't have any problems about starting the car. Any one has any ideas whats wrong with this Accord? please give us some advise, thanks.
definitely not the battery. Probably a lose connection in the ignition system somewhere. Check wire to coil , dist cap for cracks etc. Rotor. Coil maybe overheating and bad. Could also be fuel related. Lots to check on this one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tr3-2001SE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> definitely not the battery. Probably a lose connection in the ignition system somewhere. Check wire to coil , dist cap for cracks etc. Rotor. Coil maybe overheating and bad. Could also be fuel related. Lots to check on this one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for info
...................lets hear other's opinion.
thanks for info
...................lets hear other's opinion.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondadude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the dealer can run a VIN status inquiry to find out if the IGNITION SWITCH has been changed</TD></TR></TABLE>
does it cost alot to do that? are there any ways we can check the ignition switch at home if it has been gone bad?
does it cost alot to do that? are there any ways we can check the ignition switch at home if it has been gone bad?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eg6B18C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it cost alot to do that? are there any ways we can check the ignition switch at home if it has been gone bad? </TD></TR></TABLE>I doesn't cost anything to phone the dealer & ask whether your car (by VIN) is covered by the ignition switch recall, or if it's already been done. If it's not covered, but you still want them to replace your ignition switch, that'll cost you.
With a wiring drawing, you can use a multi-meter to verify that it's closing each circuit properly at the 3 key-positions. Wiggle the key around at each position to see if the continuity is flaky.
With a wiring drawing, you can use a multi-meter to verify that it's closing each circuit properly at the 3 key-positions. Wiggle the key around at each position to see if the continuity is flaky.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -RedneckDave- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could also be the alternator which was a problem in the early 6th gen cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
98-00 mostly i'll say
if the car having trouble downshifting around 40mph, it's the alternator
98-00 mostly i'll say
if the car having trouble downshifting around 40mph, it's the alternator
My friend had trouble with her car. She installed higher wattage headlights and for some reason it caused her electrical system to go nuts. I use the same high wattage bulbs in my car with no electrical issues at all.
How can it be the alternator?
A car will still run (for about an hour on a fresh charge) without an alternator because all power runs through the battery first, not the alternator. Not to mention what is killing the engine and how come it has enough power to start back up?
I second the ignition switch. It has been an ongoing problem for honda. Regardless I'd say more than likely it is an electrical problem since you didn't mention it losing power suggesting its starved for gas or the like.
A car will still run (for about an hour on a fresh charge) without an alternator because all power runs through the battery first, not the alternator. Not to mention what is killing the engine and how come it has enough power to start back up?
I second the ignition switch. It has been an ongoing problem for honda. Regardless I'd say more than likely it is an electrical problem since you didn't mention it losing power suggesting its starved for gas or the like.
I think the problem might not be the alternator unless it automatically stops working after the car running a while and then starts working back again because the car starts fine with out any problem no matter how long its been parking.
my friend just took his car to the shop and they said that they will change something about electrical that costs $170 bucks but he didn't ask what it was. I think it might be either the distributor or ignition switch.
thank you for all your input.
my friend just took his car to the shop and they said that they will change something about electrical that costs $170 bucks but he didn't ask what it was. I think it might be either the distributor or ignition switch.
thank you for all your input.
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