Step by step: How to install a crank scraper (with pics)
Tools needed:
10, 14 mm socket and wrench
Torque wrench
Dremel with sanding wheel
Hondabond
Prussian Blue indicating grease
Install time: 3-4 hours.
I recently purchased a crank scraper for my JDM ITR b18C motor from Ishihara-Johnson at http://www.crank-scrapers.com. They have two different versions available; basic scraper or Teflon scraper. They also have optional additional baffles that can be purchased. I decided to purchase the Teflon version with the optional baffles.


First step is to remove your engine from the vehicle because this whole process would be near impossible if the engine was in the car. This goes for the installation of the Teflon scraper with baffles. It may be possible to install the basic scraper while the engine is in the vehicle.
Remove the oilpan. Remove the oil pickup (two 10 mm bolts) and the stock windage tray (several 10 mm bolts/nuts)

Remove the block girdle and the three main caps.

The first test fit will be for the scraper and the baffles without the Teflon piece attached. Bolt it down in a few places to hold it down.

Rotate the crank to see where the scraper is being contacted. You will find that the baffles will not fit exactly right and the rod bolts will likely contact part of the scraper. You will need to dremel off the appropriate parts of the scraper to make it fit. This part of the process is very tedious. You will have to test fit, dremel, test fit, dremel about twenty times.


Eventually you will get the scraper to fit flush with no contact with the rotating crankshaft.

Next is to test fit the Teflon part of the scraper. The Teflon piece is held onto the scraper with several brackets and bolts. In order to see where the crank is contacting the scraper we used an indicating grease called Prussian Blue. This grease is available at NAPA.


Rotate the crankshaft a full 360 degrees. The indicating grease will show you what parts of the Teflon piece need to be trimmed. You want the Teflon piece to slightly graze the crankshaft and the rod bolts as the engine rotates.


Now that all parts fit, it is time to prepare the surface for the final installation. Scrape down the mating surface on the bottom of the block with a razor blade.

Prepare the surface with Hondabond or Ultra grey gasket maker.


Install the crank scraper. Then reinstall the main caps and the block girdle. Be sure to torque the main caps and block girdle to spec (56 ft lbs on the outer and 49 ft lbs on the girdle
). Bolt down the crank scraper to do a final test fit before the windage tray and oil pan go back on. Rotate the crank 360 degrees to be certain that there is not contact with the scraper.

Remove the 10 mm bolts and nuts holding down the crank scraper. Reinstall the stock windage tray and oil pickup.

Put a little HondaBond on the oil pan gasket and reinstall the oilpan. Be sure to torque all of the nuts and bolts to the right spec (15 ft lbs) going from the inside to the outside.

Reinstall engine:

I have had the scraper installed now for around 200 miles with no problems whatsoever. The engine will be dyno tested on April 8 but there have been many other changes to the motor since the last time it was on the dyno so I will not have any concrete numbers for power increases due to the scraper.
Modified by red civic standard at 7:23 AM 4/3/2005
10, 14 mm socket and wrench
Torque wrench
Dremel with sanding wheel
Hondabond
Prussian Blue indicating grease
Install time: 3-4 hours.
I recently purchased a crank scraper for my JDM ITR b18C motor from Ishihara-Johnson at http://www.crank-scrapers.com. They have two different versions available; basic scraper or Teflon scraper. They also have optional additional baffles that can be purchased. I decided to purchase the Teflon version with the optional baffles.


First step is to remove your engine from the vehicle because this whole process would be near impossible if the engine was in the car. This goes for the installation of the Teflon scraper with baffles. It may be possible to install the basic scraper while the engine is in the vehicle.
Remove the oilpan. Remove the oil pickup (two 10 mm bolts) and the stock windage tray (several 10 mm bolts/nuts)

Remove the block girdle and the three main caps.

The first test fit will be for the scraper and the baffles without the Teflon piece attached. Bolt it down in a few places to hold it down.

Rotate the crank to see where the scraper is being contacted. You will find that the baffles will not fit exactly right and the rod bolts will likely contact part of the scraper. You will need to dremel off the appropriate parts of the scraper to make it fit. This part of the process is very tedious. You will have to test fit, dremel, test fit, dremel about twenty times.


Eventually you will get the scraper to fit flush with no contact with the rotating crankshaft.

Next is to test fit the Teflon part of the scraper. The Teflon piece is held onto the scraper with several brackets and bolts. In order to see where the crank is contacting the scraper we used an indicating grease called Prussian Blue. This grease is available at NAPA.


Rotate the crankshaft a full 360 degrees. The indicating grease will show you what parts of the Teflon piece need to be trimmed. You want the Teflon piece to slightly graze the crankshaft and the rod bolts as the engine rotates.


Now that all parts fit, it is time to prepare the surface for the final installation. Scrape down the mating surface on the bottom of the block with a razor blade.

Prepare the surface with Hondabond or Ultra grey gasket maker.


Install the crank scraper. Then reinstall the main caps and the block girdle. Be sure to torque the main caps and block girdle to spec (56 ft lbs on the outer and 49 ft lbs on the girdle
). Bolt down the crank scraper to do a final test fit before the windage tray and oil pan go back on. Rotate the crank 360 degrees to be certain that there is not contact with the scraper.

Remove the 10 mm bolts and nuts holding down the crank scraper. Reinstall the stock windage tray and oil pickup.

Put a little HondaBond on the oil pan gasket and reinstall the oilpan. Be sure to torque all of the nuts and bolts to the right spec (15 ft lbs) going from the inside to the outside.

Reinstall engine:

I have had the scraper installed now for around 200 miles with no problems whatsoever. The engine will be dyno tested on April 8 but there have been many other changes to the motor since the last time it was on the dyno so I will not have any concrete numbers for power increases due to the scraper.
Modified by red civic standard at 7:23 AM 4/3/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brainwo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What a waste of time/money.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And exactly how did you come up w/ this fine observation?..
And if anybody has any #'s on this thing... Post em up!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And exactly how did you come up w/ this fine observation?..
And if anybody has any #'s on this thing... Post em up!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brainwo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What a waste of time/money.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since your an expert why not tell the class what this does and its intended purpose.
Then tell us why it's a total waste and the results to your test data that can backup why or how you came to this conclusion..
But since there useless its no wonder why they are banned in certain sanctioned racing classes..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since your an expert why not tell the class what this does and its intended purpose.
Then tell us why it's a total waste and the results to your test data that can backup why or how you came to this conclusion..
But since there useless its no wonder why they are banned in certain sanctioned racing classes..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what the hell does it do???? just keeps the oil off the crank?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Taken from http://www.crank-scrapers.com:
During normal engine operation a significant amount of oil adheres to or becomes entrained in a cloud surrounding the spinning bottom end. This oil eats up horsepower your engine is making by increasing the rotating mass and also creating parasitic drag. A crank scraper mechanically strips off excess oil by coming close to, but not touching*, the moving crankshaft and rods. It also interferes with the pressure differential that draws oil into the so-called windage cloud.
Read this thread for some more info:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1040680
Taken from http://www.crank-scrapers.com:
During normal engine operation a significant amount of oil adheres to or becomes entrained in a cloud surrounding the spinning bottom end. This oil eats up horsepower your engine is making by increasing the rotating mass and also creating parasitic drag. A crank scraper mechanically strips off excess oil by coming close to, but not touching*, the moving crankshaft and rods. It also interferes with the pressure differential that draws oil into the so-called windage cloud.
Read this thread for some more info:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1040680
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not a bad idea, and a great write up, but how exactly is this different from a windage tray?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The windage tray keeps oil in the sump from splashing onto the crank. The scraper scrapes excess oil off the crank and returns it to the sump.
The windage tray keeps oil in the sump from splashing onto the crank. The scraper scrapes excess oil off the crank and returns it to the sump.
I really can't understand how this thing 'll increase HP by 2%
there is no test data proven this thing work. or someone have to come up with test data. plus the guy who sell the product should come up with test data and prove to us it works.
The rod and main bearing journals are constantly spraying large amounts of oil in all directions when the engine is operating
A crank scraper mechanically strips off excess oil by coming close to, but not touching*, the moving crankshaft and rods
there is no test data proven this thing work. or someone have to come up with test data. plus the guy who sell the product should come up with test data and prove to us it works.
The rod and main bearing journals are constantly spraying large amounts of oil in all directions when the engine is operating
A crank scraper mechanically strips off excess oil by coming close to, but not touching*, the moving crankshaft and rods
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brainwo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really can't understand how this thing 'll increase HP by 2%
there is no test data proven this thing work. or someone have to come up with test data. plus the guy who sell the product should come up with test data and prove to us it works.
The rod and main bearing journals are constantly spraying large amounts of oil in all directions when the engine is operating
A crank scraper mechanically strips off excess oil by coming close to, but not touching*, the moving crankshaft and rods</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not rocket science. If you have less rotational mass, the engine will get to "said rpm" faster. My question is, how much oil is actually taken away from the crank, that would otherwise spun along with it.
there is no test data proven this thing work. or someone have to come up with test data. plus the guy who sell the product should come up with test data and prove to us it works.
The rod and main bearing journals are constantly spraying large amounts of oil in all directions when the engine is operating
A crank scraper mechanically strips off excess oil by coming close to, but not touching*, the moving crankshaft and rods</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its not rocket science. If you have less rotational mass, the engine will get to "said rpm" faster. My question is, how much oil is actually taken away from the crank, that would otherwise spun along with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its not rocket science. If you have less rotational mass, the engine will get to "said rpm" faster. My question is, how much oil is actually taken away from the crank, that would otherwise spun along with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's right.. look at the pic.. how much can it remove?..
i would spend the money on Knifeedge Crank, balance, blueprint etc..
Its not rocket science. If you have less rotational mass, the engine will get to "said rpm" faster. My question is, how much oil is actually taken away from the crank, that would otherwise spun along with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's right.. look at the pic.. how much can it remove?..
i would spend the money on Knifeedge Crank, balance, blueprint etc..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brainwo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i would spend the money on Knifeedge Crank, balance, blueprint etc..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
Red Civic, you did an excellent job on the install and writeup though.
i would spend the money on Knifeedge Crank, balance, blueprint etc..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
Red Civic, you did an excellent job on the install and writeup though.
Red Civic, nice write up, we got a gain on a B-16 with the regular scraper from crank-scrapers and will test the teflon one wich should be better because of the closer tolerances. I will IM you the results, others do not need to know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> others do not need to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im interested on how much windage effects power
Im interested on how much windage effects power
Good write up!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its not rocket science. If you have less rotational mass, the engine will get to "said rpm" faster. My question is, how much oil is actually taken away from the crank, that would otherwise spun along with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brainwo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's right.. look at the pic.. how much can it remove?..
i would spend the money on Knifeedge Crank, balance, blueprint etc..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have to also think of the pressured gases in the crankcase that this will help lower too.
Do some research, crank scrapers have been around for 30+ years. Most ppl forget to look back on old technology used on Muscle cars and other older motors. Science is science and does not matter what platform of motor you run; The law of physics will apply!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its not rocket science. If you have less rotational mass, the engine will get to "said rpm" faster. My question is, how much oil is actually taken away from the crank, that would otherwise spun along with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brainwo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's right.. look at the pic.. how much can it remove?..
i would spend the money on Knifeedge Crank, balance, blueprint etc..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have to also think of the pressured gases in the crankcase that this will help lower too.
Do some research, crank scrapers have been around for 30+ years. Most ppl forget to look back on old technology used on Muscle cars and other older motors. Science is science and does not matter what platform of motor you run; The law of physics will apply!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">others do not need to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of **** is that?
If you really felt this way, you should have communicated THAT message through a PM.
What kind of **** is that?
If you really felt this way, you should have communicated THAT message through a PM.
Actually the gains are posted on a H-T thread about windage losses and gains, Red Civic obviously read that thread, and did a nice article about the install. People who criticize him don't need to know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of **** is that?
If you really felt this way, you should have communicated THAT message through a PM.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea thats like school grade **** . . like saying "i have secret but i cant tell you" haha
If you really felt this way, you should have communicated THAT message through a PM.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yea thats like school grade **** . . like saying "i have secret but i cant tell you" haha
I fully understand and agree with Don.
I just don't get it sometimes. People come forward to help out others and then are bashed for doing so. A simple "I do not agree with you" would do, but oh no! that would be to ******* civil.
I damn sure don’t see these opinionated ******** who talk all this ****, putting their hard earned money and time into ideas, and then telling the rest of us have well they did, or did not. I guess that's asking to much from a child.
Hey Brainwo, may your engines last as good as your manners.
Hats off to ya Red Civic...great write up, and thanks for the info.
I just don't get it sometimes. People come forward to help out others and then are bashed for doing so. A simple "I do not agree with you" would do, but oh no! that would be to ******* civil.
I damn sure don’t see these opinionated ******** who talk all this ****, putting their hard earned money and time into ideas, and then telling the rest of us have well they did, or did not. I guess that's asking to much from a child.
Hey Brainwo, may your engines last as good as your manners.
Hats off to ya Red Civic...great write up, and thanks for the info.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jason bouchard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yea thats like school grade **** . . like saying "i have secret but i cant tell you" haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually if you had bothered to look at the link provided earlier in this thread DonF talks about his own experience using crank scrapers, but I guess that's asking too much, you actually have to read through some pages of good info
yea thats like school grade **** . . like saying "i have secret but i cant tell you" haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>Actually if you had bothered to look at the link provided earlier in this thread DonF talks about his own experience using crank scrapers, but I guess that's asking too much, you actually have to read through some pages of good info



