Relocatting battery into the trunk Need Help
First of all is this even a good idea? From what I have read and researched doing so is not beneficial to FWD cars...
Also If any one has doen this before could you please list the steps and instructions on how to do this mod.. Thanks
Also If any one has doen this before could you please list the steps and instructions on how to do this mod.. Thanks
First of all is this even a good idea? From what I have read and researched doing so is not beneficial to FWD cars...
Also If any one has doen this before could you please list the steps and instructions on how to do this mod.. Thanks
Also If any one has doen this before could you please list the steps and instructions on how to do this mod.. Thanks
that's like saying having somebody heavier in the back will totally throwout u'r teg.
First of all is this even a good idea? From what I have read and researched doing so is not beneficial to FWD cars...
Also If any one has doen this before could you please list the steps and instructions on how to do this mod.. Thanks
Also If any one has doen this before could you please list the steps and instructions on how to do this mod.. Thanks
The main reason I did it was to free up space in the engine compartment. Also, it does help weight distribution, and I can feel a differance - just make sure to mount it on the passenger side to offset the weight of the driver some.
anyway, it is easy to do - just run a 4 or 8 gague cable back through a grommet in the firewall, under the carpet, and into the trunk. Ground the battery to the spare tire will (sand the paint off for better contanct), hook the cables up under the hood and yer done. Oh yea, and installing a fuse near the battery is always a good idea.
anyway, it is easy to do - just run a 4 or 8 gague cable back through a grommet in the firewall, under the carpet, and into the trunk. Ground the battery to the spare tire will (sand the paint off for better contanct), hook the cables up under the hood and yer done. Oh yea, and installing a fuse near the battery is always a good idea.
definatly agree... a HUGE stereo fuse should be great....
but... i definatly would not use 8 guage power wire.... I might be over concerned, but for the 2 seconds that your starter is turning, it is pulling A HUGE amountof current... I would stick with 4 AWG or larger. With a smaller gauge power cable, the cable with get hotter quicker... I recommend 4 gauge for thew ground and for the power.
but... i definatly would not use 8 guage power wire.... I might be over concerned, but for the 2 seconds that your starter is turning, it is pulling A HUGE amountof current... I would stick with 4 AWG or larger. With a smaller gauge power cable, the cable with get hotter quicker... I recommend 4 gauge for thew ground and for the power.
when you relocate your battery to the back, does that put added strain on the charging system? Now it'll have to run all the way to and from the back of the car... WHy not just get a smaller "Racing" battery like a spoon sports one? I saw them on a-j racing site.. makes more sense
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when you relocate your battery to the back, does that put added strain on the charging system? Now it'll have to run all the way to and from the back of the car... WHy not just get a smaller "Racing" battery like a spoon sports one? I saw them on a-j racing site.. makes more sense
go 0 gauge while u'r at it.. u might as well... btw, make sure u got 1 sealed battery or it's not our fault if you breathe in bad fumes!
how does moving your battery to the rear help weight distribuition on a FWD car? Wouldn't it if anything, make the weight distribution worse? YOu want more weight on the front tires, so you can hook up better. That's why RWD's are the best for the track, besides AWD.
moving the battery isn't going to make the weight distribution worst....leaving it in front is already bad.
70-30 front back ratio isn't looking all that good....
a 60/40 would look better
and if we could a 50-50 like RX-7s would be the best!
moving some weight outta the front with lighter parts (hoods)
moving parts (battery) or removing parts (ac compresssor) all help!
70-30 front back ratio isn't looking all that good....
a 60/40 would look better
and if we could a 50-50 like RX-7s would be the best!
moving some weight outta the front with lighter parts (hoods)
moving parts (battery) or removing parts (ac compresssor) all help!
When you relocate the battery, where and how many fuses do you want to add? Would adding a fuse in the engine compartment where the battery used to be and one in the trunk be the ideal solution?
Is it best to have the fuses closest to the alternator or to the battery?
Is it best to have the fuses closest to the alternator or to the battery?
BoM - you are right about removeing weight from the front - Idealy each tire should support an equal amount of the car's mass.
The fuse should go on the power cable as close to the battery as possiable. That is the only one you need - By the way, I have heard a kill switch is required for SCCA spec. The simple solution to that is to just run a circut breaker instead of a fuse. As for cable size, I'm running 8 gague power and ground right now, and it does seem to be a bit on the small side. I plan on swapping it out to 4 gague shortly.
The Optima is a gel-type battery, and you don't need to use a battery box with it but it only has ~450 CCA and costs over a hundred bucks. That amperage would probably leave me stranded at 3:00 am in below zero weather somewhere, definatly not a happy thought
So I bought a 1,000 CCA battery from fleat farm and made a battery box for it out of sheet aluminum. Just remember to vent the box to the outside of the car.
The fuse should go on the power cable as close to the battery as possiable. That is the only one you need - By the way, I have heard a kill switch is required for SCCA spec. The simple solution to that is to just run a circut breaker instead of a fuse. As for cable size, I'm running 8 gague power and ground right now, and it does seem to be a bit on the small side. I plan on swapping it out to 4 gague shortly.
The Optima is a gel-type battery, and you don't need to use a battery box with it but it only has ~450 CCA and costs over a hundred bucks. That amperage would probably leave me stranded at 3:00 am in below zero weather somewhere, definatly not a happy thought
So I bought a 1,000 CCA battery from fleat farm and made a battery box for it out of sheet aluminum. Just remember to vent the box to the outside of the car.
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I did this on my Camry to free up space in the engine bay. It also puts your battery closer to your stereo amps (if they are in the back, too). I used an Optima Red Top battery, completely sealed, so no need for a box. A non-sealed battery MUST use a box and be properly vented to the exterior car (regular wet-cell batteries emit hydrogen). I ran some 4-guage cable up to the front, but I would recommend larger. On the stock system, you already have a 4-guage cable running straight from the battery to the starter (no fuse or anything). With the battery in back, that current now has to travel almost 20 feet. With my old setup, I made a platform for the battery, and mounted a large fuse holder right next to it. Definetly have a fuse (or circuit breaker, even) right next to the battery. I started out with a 100A fuse, but the wire inside the fuse started to deform, so I stepped up to a 150A fuse and it was fine, although I only had the setup for about 3 months before selling the car. For me, it ended up being a waste of money. The whole project cost me about $300 (because I used Phoenix Gold cable and gold-plated connectors). But anyway, use a sealed battery or battery box, use at least 1 ga. cable, and mount a large fuse right next to the battery. I saw one person that ran 2 large cables off the battery in the back. One cable to the fuse box and the other directly to the starter. Cable that big is very expensive, though. I kept all that battery stuff and would have put it in the back of my car, but I just didn't want to deal with it. If you have any questions feel free to e-mail or IM me.
I'm in the process of moving my battery to the trunk. I bought a battery relocation kit from Taylor products. The enclosure is a bit big for a Honda battery, but it does the job, and is also vented.
I'll be running a circuit breaker, but if the track officials give me any hassles, I will bring my stock parts to do a quick changeover. Hopefully it won't be an issue though.
I'll be running a circuit breaker, but if the track officials give me any hassles, I will bring my stock parts to do a quick changeover. Hopefully it won't be an issue though.
I plan on adding a second battery to my car when I get my stereo system.
Yellow top in the trunk. Your install looks pretty nice.
Yellow top in the trunk. Your install looks pretty nice.
This is OT but if you got the cash, you can buy a Spoon battery that's 1/3 the size and weight of the OEM battery...or something like that. 

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