which is better and why cold air or short ram? who gives the most horses

 

Hydrolock < No hydrolock

 

Colder air is less dense so in theory there can be more crammed in the motor which gives you a lil more power ......get more opinions though

 

what do you mean? hydrolic or no hydrolic

 

S E A R C H

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Z7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean? hydrolic or no hydrolic</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats hilarious..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WishinItWas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Colder air is less dense so in theory there can be more crammed in the motor which gives you a lil more power ......get more opinions though </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, the colder air has a small effect on it, it's more about harmonics.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dip-set &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats hilarious.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, make sure it's a hydrolic intake . search.

 

oh i got you on the hydrolic &lt; no hydrolic but how is that involved with your intake?

 

but when you buy an AEM intake there is nothing about hydrolics in the manual....you must be talking about something else...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Z7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh i got you on the hydrolic &lt; no hydrolic but how is that involved with your intake?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hydrolock, son, hydrolock. Hydrolock is what happens when your engine kerplodes because it ingests a shitton of water instead of air and attempts to compress it.

This only happens with a Cold-Air Intake. Therefore, he was saying that the short-ram is better because there is virtually 0% chance of hydrolocking your engine with it.

Savvy?

 

i was kidding. he said hydroloc. like sucking water into your motor with a cold air intake. that will kill your engine. short rams don't have that problem, but cold air's make slightly more power. search for the rest.

 

CAI&gt;SRI

 

with simple answers put on your flame retardent gear! short ram is inside your engine bay so it's very hard to get water sucked into your engine (very bad if happens) and with the cai (cold air intake) which sits near your front bumper outside of the engine bay and you living in MI with alot more rain fall than some other places you cai could turn into a straw and your engine can turn into a small water tank. colder air helps better but water is worst.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WishinItWas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Colder air is less dense so in theory there can be more crammed in the motor which gives you a lil more power ......get more opinions though </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually professor... cold air is MORE dense, thats why warm air rises So denser air occupy less space so in theory can cram more air into the motor im a keener

 

"short-ram" (or just ram-air in general) is strictly a function of tuning (lots of variables). There is no such thing as one "short-ram" fits all. Cold air is just denser air. More air into the cylinder (along with more gas) will give a bigger POP. It's the same principle as raising the CR or boosting but nowhere near as significant.

 

ive had both and niether seem to help at all in terms of performance, but i like the short ram better, less hassle and it sounds cool.

 

Hate to be a stickler, but it's spelled "hydraulic". The spelling "hydrolic" is some creation of H-T. This isn't the first time I've seen it here, regardless of context.

As for SRI and CAI, the extra HP or two you get with a CAI isn't worth the risk and hassle. I've read on this quite a bit and it's been said that the whole effect of a CAI can be negated on a hot day. Intakes are mostly for throttle response anyways, that is unless there's a turbo between the filter and throttlebody...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CaptivaBlue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hate to be a stickler, but it's spelled "hydraulic". </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hydraulic definition "operated, moved, or effected by means of water" That just doesn't sound right

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Z7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean? hydrolic or no hydrolic</TD></TR></TABLE>

He was showing off his lack of knowledge. Apparently some people who don't think to well relate "improperly installed CAI's hydrolock" with "All CAI's hydrolock"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
He was showing off his lack of knowledge. Apparently some people who don't think to well relate "improperly installed CAI's hydrolock" with "All CAI's hydrolock" </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you consider buying a bypass valve as properly installing it. Otherwise, a big enough puddle will get you no matter how you install it.

 

had an aem CAI for a while, car got stolen and they took that

i had it replaced with a SRI intentionally. I like having the SRI, easier to clean, better sounding (IMO), better throttle response and to tell you quite honestly i don't feel a power difference between the CAI and the SRI.

When you're going 60 mph or however fast, the temp of the air won't matter that much between where the SRI intake filter is placed where the CAI filter. On a dyno you might be able to simply with the fact that the car and air traveling to the intake is not moving as fast as it would be on the road/track. And now i don't really have to worry about driving in the rain thinking about puddles.

my vote goes for the SRI

best tested intake is also a SRI -- J's Racing

 

as far as i'm concerned, the only time it matters is at the track, so I take my headlight out and my short ram might as well be a cold air. I understand the harmonics argument too (that the length, size, and shape of intake has a lot more to do with power gains than air temp does), but in the end the cold air doesn't offer much more than a short ram. I like not having to dodge puddles.

 

Find a case where somebody hydrolocked because of a "puddle" with the plastic fender guard intact and installed. As long as you don't screw with your car, you're fine.

Puddle isn't going to do it, more like a river, so yes, if you're completely devoid of common sense, by all means avoid cold air intakes. I personally don't use one cause CAI's are better for mid range torque, and I prefer high end gains of a SR, that being said, the hydrolock argument is a retarded one.

 

i'd go with ful..all the way down to vent and get fresh air from outside then 2 get short air from inside then engine bay..all dirty and stuff plus twice as hard to get half cool

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you consider buying a bypass valve as properly installing it. Otherwise, a big enough puddle will get you no matter how you install it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Had CAI with bypass valve and hate to break it to you but that lil "valve" doesn't do crap if you submerge the filter in water. I was driving home in a severe thunder storm where the streets flood so fast its ridiculous (they don't call it the low country for nothing) and hit a black spot in the road where you couldn't see the puddle and BOOM. Hydrolocked engine even with the valve. Sent two rods through the oil pan. Personally, I would just get a short ram unless you live in the desert where your more likely to see jesus than water.