ive got a 1990 d16a6 with 200,000 miles. i was wondering, bc ive never done an oil change to it, whats the best oil to put in my baby? like 5w 20 or what, sorry i juss dont know, and how many quarts, and should i add some oil treatment, i heard STP was bangin.....

 

http://re2.mm-a.yimg.com/image/765828231
Fram Filter

 

if you live up north in the cold use 5w30 in the cold months and use 10w30 during the rest of the year. I use lucas oil stabalizer and it works good.

 

10w30 castrol gtx (non synthetic)
honda s2000 filter

thats what im using...

 

an s2000 oil filter? why

 

better filter since its made by toyo rouki...that company makes the HAMP green filters that cost 10 bucks a piece, and you can get the s2000 for about 5 a filter...

 

oh i see well i got the filter figured out, i should juss go mobil oil and what 5w30 4 quarts?

 

do you have a passneger side seat that will fit my 90 si hatch?

 

s2000 filter fits on any honda what about a d15b1 would it fit that??

 

thanks for the info fellas....

 

Mobil 1 synthetic and Purolator PureOne filters. There used to be a fairly comprehensive comparison of filters online that convinced me.

 

Hmm, I'm thinking 200k miles is a little late to switch to a full synthetic. Use a 10w-30 Valvoline Durablend or MaxLife and a Purolator filter. If you're burning oil and seals are starting to go bad use the Maxlife.

Don't use that STP crap either.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Read up on that board, lots of useful lube info.

 

Valvoline max life

5w-30 winter, 10w-30 summer

Fram oil filter (easy to grip with your hand to get it off )

 

I found a great oil. It is called Leadingedge and can be found at http://www.thefordsource.com/s...s.htm
also if you want a testimonial to its quality you can read the artical by a guy named Jeff from Import builders
http://www.importbuilders.com/turbosetup.html
to check it out just scroll down to the section on oil.

 

im gonna buy the 10w30 valvoline maxlife

why shouldt i use the STP oil treatment?

and how many quarts does my engine hold?

 

3.5 quarts of oil. Dont use fram filters, use Puralator PURone. All that stp additive stuff is a waste.

 

im using valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic maxlife for winter and 10w for summer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crexer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3.5 quarts of oil. Dont use fram filters, use Puralator PURone. All that stp additive stuff is a waste. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What's wrong with fram?

 

fram is garbage...

 

i dont think theres anything wrong with FRAM juss puralator is better and cheaper, but i dunno

 

If you disassemble a Fram filter, you'll see that it's the cruddiest, cheapest POS on the market. Just about any brand of filter is better. Their filtration area is poor, some say it is prone to internal leaking and the bypass valve is the weakest on the market ... meaning that the filter stays open and does not actually filter until the engine oil warms up greatly and thins out.

I like Hastings and Baldwins for Hondas ... but it's been a few years since I last hacked one of those buggers apart.

STP is mostly two things: polymeric thickener and ZDDP (zinc phosphate).

The thickener stuff is not good. When pushed, the long-chain molecules which make up this goo shear down and thin out ... and may leave behind sludge.

The ZDDP is useful protection, but ALL oils have at least some of this stuff. More might be better ... but that's why more and more oils are coming with molybdenum, boron, antimony, etc ...

 

As long as you change your oil on time ( around 3,000 miles or less ), any oil filter will do. You can actually go 8,000 miles before each oil change ( according to Honda ), but then I would really look into a better oil filter if your gonna wait this long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fram is garbage... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the "technical" info..........

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bror Jace &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you disassemble a Fram filter, you'll see that it's the cruddiest, cheapest POS on the market. Just about any brand of filter is better. Their filtration area is poor, some say it is prone to internal leaking and the bypass valve is the weakest on the market ... meaning that the filter stays open and does not actually filter until the engine oil warms up greatly and thins out.

I like Hastings and Baldwins for Hondas ... but it's been a few years since I last hacked one of those buggers apart.

STP is mostly two things: polymeric thickener and ZDDP (zinc phosphate).

The thickener stuff is not good. When pushed, the long-chain molecules which make up this goo shear down and thin out ... and may leave behind sludge.

The ZDDP is useful protection, but ALL oils have at least some of this stuff. More might be better ... but that's why more and more oils are coming with molybdenum, boron, antimony, etc ... </TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks for the technical info.......

 

THANKS, i didnt know STP turned into sludge. oh yea and i guess FRAM is pretty shitty, didnt know that either.