So i brought home a new toy yesterday.....
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From: RIP Craig Jones
So i brought home a new toy yesterday.....
Yesterday i went and picked up my Spec RX7 project. I picked up a '83 RX7 GSL - came with 4 wheel disc, limited slip, sunroof, power windows, etc. Car has 85,xxx miles on it, and runs very well - motor pulls strong through redline, body is straight and rust-free. Interior is a little ratty, but its a race car so thats ok 
After i picked it up it went straight to the shop for some work... i got done:
Turned all 4 rotors
Control Arm bushings
Strut rod bushings
Installed Lug Studs/Nuts in place of stock lug bolts
Installed new tie rod ends
Oil/Filter Change
Alignment Spec
General inspection.
After driving it around and looking it over, it needs:
Clean up! The underbody is crusted with all sorts of crap... simple green here i come
New (street) tires - have BFG R1's for the track already
Coolant Flush
Tranny Drain/Fill (for good measure)
Brake Fluid Flush (Superblue sitting in my toolbox)
Steering Rack adjustment - has too much play off-center
Hopefully before the VIR event i'll have installed:
Autopower 6 point cage
Sabelt 5 point harnesses
Tokico Shocks
Hawk Blue (f) Hawk HPS (r)
Other issues i have with the car that need attention:
It idles high (1500-2000) and runs RICH - you can smell the fumes inside the car driving around. Possible bad cat or fuel issue... Al, do you have any solutions for this? Its a good thing i dont have to pass emissions right now. I will probably be having a local muffler shop build a system for me with a generic cat, ditch the pre-cat, and a supertrapp or some other obnoxiously loud muffler.
Pics up on the Madison Motorsport homepage soon.... i think we (as in the whole club) will work on building this thing up into a proper race car
-Ryan-
[Modified by Type-RJ, 12:37 PM 1/27/2002]
After i picked it up it went straight to the shop for some work... i got done:Turned all 4 rotors
Control Arm bushings
Strut rod bushings
Installed Lug Studs/Nuts in place of stock lug bolts
Installed new tie rod ends
Oil/Filter Change
Alignment Spec
General inspection.
After driving it around and looking it over, it needs:
Clean up! The underbody is crusted with all sorts of crap... simple green here i come
New (street) tires - have BFG R1's for the track already
Coolant Flush
Tranny Drain/Fill (for good measure)
Brake Fluid Flush (Superblue sitting in my toolbox)
Steering Rack adjustment - has too much play off-center
Hopefully before the VIR event i'll have installed:
Autopower 6 point cage
Sabelt 5 point harnesses
Tokico Shocks
Hawk Blue (f) Hawk HPS (r)
Other issues i have with the car that need attention:
It idles high (1500-2000) and runs RICH - you can smell the fumes inside the car driving around. Possible bad cat or fuel issue... Al, do you have any solutions for this? Its a good thing i dont have to pass emissions right now. I will probably be having a local muffler shop build a system for me with a generic cat, ditch the pre-cat, and a supertrapp or some other obnoxiously loud muffler.
Pics up on the Madison Motorsport homepage soon.... i think we (as in the whole club) will work on building this thing up into a proper race car
-Ryan-
[Modified by Type-RJ, 12:37 PM 1/27/2002]
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
Re: So i brought home a new toy yesterday..... (Type-RJ)
Where are you getting the rollcage? I still have one if you need it.
They almost all smell bad and idle funny. They run rich from the factory. Try dialing back the idle speed and idle air mix screws a bit. And ditch the stock cats ASAP.
Use stock rear pads. Anyhting else will lock up the rears unless you use an adjustable bias valve. Blues up front are the current favorite.
BFG R1s are not the spec tire. But until you start racing it doesn't matter.
How is the alignment? You are allowed to slot the strut towers to get up to -1.25* camber. Usually you will need to slot to get this amount. Set the toe to zero. Not sure what the best caster setting is yet, I use the max value in the FSM.
Other things to do ASAP:
change fuel filter, make sure it is installed between tank and pump.
check all fuel lines, they are rubber and get brittle
replace all radiator/coolant hoses (including the heater lines)
remove AC completely
remove cold start system
[Modified by Crack Monkey, 3:45 PM 1/26/2002]
They almost all smell bad and idle funny. They run rich from the factory. Try dialing back the idle speed and idle air mix screws a bit. And ditch the stock cats ASAP.
Use stock rear pads. Anyhting else will lock up the rears unless you use an adjustable bias valve. Blues up front are the current favorite.
BFG R1s are not the spec tire. But until you start racing it doesn't matter.
How is the alignment? You are allowed to slot the strut towers to get up to -1.25* camber. Usually you will need to slot to get this amount. Set the toe to zero. Not sure what the best caster setting is yet, I use the max value in the FSM.
Other things to do ASAP:
change fuel filter, make sure it is installed between tank and pump.
check all fuel lines, they are rubber and get brittle
replace all radiator/coolant hoses (including the heater lines)
remove AC completely
remove cold start system
[Modified by Crack Monkey, 3:45 PM 1/26/2002]
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 30,826
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: So i brought home a new toy yesterday..... (Crack Monkey)
Yes i was planning on picking that up from you
I will do that tomorrow as i tear into the car again for misc stuff... as for the cats, i'll get a generic high flow unit from summit and have the local muffler shop weld somethin up for $100
I'll keep that in mind with the pads - and the tires were $free$ (i paid for the extra stock wheels tho) from a friend. When i start racing i'll buy kuhmo's. The alignment is fairly stock - i havent slotted the towers yet - i've got a bit of camber and zero toe right now. How much does a set of coolant/rad hoses run? Just curious...
I also need to pick up a haynes manual (or similar) for reference. Thanks for the help See you at VIR.
-Ryan
Where are you getting the rollcage? I still have one if you need it.
They almost all smell bad and idle funny. They run rich from the factory. Try dialing back the idle speed and idle air mix screws a bit. And ditch the stock cats ASAP.
I'll keep that in mind with the pads - and the tires were $free$ (i paid for the extra stock wheels tho) from a friend. When i start racing i'll buy kuhmo's. The alignment is fairly stock - i havent slotted the towers yet - i've got a bit of camber and zero toe right now. How much does a set of coolant/rad hoses run? Just curious...
Use stock rear pads. Anyhting else will lock up the rears unless you use an adjustable bias valve. Blues up front are the current favorite.
BFG R1s are not the spec tire. But until you start racing it doesn't matter.
How is the alignment? You are allowed to slot the strut towers to get up to -1.25* camber. Usually you will need to slot to get this amount. Set the toe to zero. Not sure what the best caster setting is yet, I use the max value in the FSM.
Other things to do ASAP:
change fuel filter, make sure it is installed between tank and pump.
check all fuel lines, they are rubber and get brittle
replace all radiator/coolant hoses (including the heater lines)
remove AC completely
remove cold start system
BFG R1s are not the spec tire. But until you start racing it doesn't matter.
How is the alignment? You are allowed to slot the strut towers to get up to -1.25* camber. Usually you will need to slot to get this amount. Set the toe to zero. Not sure what the best caster setting is yet, I use the max value in the FSM.
Other things to do ASAP:
change fuel filter, make sure it is installed between tank and pump.
check all fuel lines, they are rubber and get brittle
replace all radiator/coolant hoses (including the heater lines)
remove AC completely
remove cold start system
See you at VIR.-Ryan
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
Likes: 0
From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
Re: So i brought home a new toy yesterday..... (Type-RJ)
The radiator hoses are cheap. The heater hoses are expensive - I think one was ~$20 and the other was ~$50.
Whichever manual you get, make sure it includes a wiring diagram. The FSM had the wiring as a seperate doc for some years. Most of the universal (Chiltons, etc) have it in the same book. All are pretty useless as they lack diagnostic info and the pictures are poor quality. But having one is occasionally useful (and required when racing).
Whichever manual you get, make sure it includes a wiring diagram. The FSM had the wiring as a seperate doc for some years. Most of the universal (Chiltons, etc) have it in the same book. All are pretty useless as they lack diagnostic info and the pictures are poor quality. But having one is occasionally useful (and required when racing).
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 30,826
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: So i brought home a new toy yesterday..... (Crack Monkey)
Well, i drove around some more yesterday in the car, put gas in it..... it had been sitting for some time when i picked it up, and with a fresh tank of gas it didnt smell nearly as bad. I'm still going to ditch the stock cats...
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