Here's what happened: In an attempt to install my coilovers this weekend, I ended up snappnig the head off my trailing-arm-to-lca bolt, seen here in red:

I ended up renting a reciprocating saw to cut through the bushing/sleeve/bolt, thinking I could use vice grips to grab and turn out the remaining fragment. This didn't work. So my current situation is this:

In the first extremely simplified frame, you see where the LCA should mate up to the trailing arm. The problem is, if you look at the second extremely simplified frame, there is still that fragment of bolt peeking out the other side. Not enough to grab on to, but enough that I can't fit the LCA in because the bushing's too close to the sides. Plus, I couldn't show it in the pictures, but the trailing arm's edges wrap around real close to the tail end of the snapped bolt (the tapered end coming out of the flange nut), making the clearance so tight that I can't get in there with the reciprocating saw or rotary saw to cut it off.
I can't tow the car now, because they say I need to have two wheels on the rear that are able to support the weight of the car, because they have to roll it up onto the flatbed. The problem is, I can put the wheel on, but without the lca being attached to the trailling arm, there is nothing support the trailing arm assembly at all, and it would instantly bottom out on that corner.
One possible solution I've been considering is getting a rotary saw to grind off that little piece on the inside of the trailing arm, so that I can at least fit the LCA in and stick a bolt through one of the holes, and that the bolt should be strong enough to hold the corner up while it is being transported to a shop to take care of the rest. My concern is if the bolt is not strong enough, it will snap due to the angle and stress on it.
Other than that, I don't know how to deal with this. Someone please help me out.
edit: grrr, I didn't label it in the picture, but that second frame is a view of the trailing arm, with the broken bolt sticking through one side, and how the LCA doesn't fit into it.
I've tried easy out, but the bits I've been using can't put any decent hole into the bolt. I've been pb-blasting it since yesterday, still no luck.

 

your best bet, is to cut off the welded nut
and use a new nut, with large washer

and when u fix that, take the car to a shop, to have all the LCA bolts removed with air

heat up the bolt if u need to

leverage, with a breaker bar is what snaps bolts


Modified by Dan GSR at 12:30 AM 3/29/2005

 

btw, your diagram is

 

yeah thats a nice diagram, sorry i couldnt be any help though.

 

i had the same problem on my Da, i just cut the welded nut off and put it back together with and welded another nut onto the trailing arm

 

hmm that is a real bind.

i think ur best choice is what Dan GSR said. hope someone has another idea!

great diagrams.

 

This is the same situation everyone runs into with the rear shock bolt. They break the shock bolt and it's not safe to drive on or tow.

The shaft of the bolt is rusted to the bushing's inner sleeve. 2 options of removing.
1) Burn the bushing so the inner sleeve is free to rotate, chisel the welded nut off and you should be able to pull the control arm.

2) Use the reciprocating saw to cut through the bolt/bushing on either side of the control arm. This will allow you to pull the control arm out. You now have access to the welded nut... you can either chisel the stud off the trailing arm or try to remove the stud. A propane torch and some penetrant should make this easy. You really don't need the nut welded there... it is a assembly convenience. Just run a new nut onto the bolt.... and don't forget to antiseize everything.

Next: Either install ES bushings into the control arm or take it to get new OEM bushings installed.

Team Integra reference on the shock bolt.
http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1025

Edit:

Just figured out your second diagram.... looks like you need the chisel the nut off.


Modified by stumpyf4 at 1:52 AM 4/3/2005

 

Could you fit a drill in to drill it out? Find a steel bit that is smaller than the thread diameter on the bold and then drill it out. Once you have drilled all the way through Use vice grips and the bolt should come out easily.

 

i would use a drill and drill it out or if you have experience i would get it out with an easy out. you can get one at like home depot for less that 20.00 for a kit. works everytime.