I know I'm a newbie, but I used the search function and couldn't find anything.

Has anybody here run the Powerslot Big Brake kit on an Integra? Is it a big difference? I've only owned mine for a week, so I haven't had the opportunity to lean on the brakes yet. I don't know if they fade, but I did discover that "WD" cost on the Russell brakes lines is CHEAP!

Anyway, just wondering if the big brake kit will fit under the stock 15" rims.

Thanks in advance if anyone knows!

-Rad

 

While larger rotors will help prevent fade, using larger rotors with the same size caliper pistons will hurt your stopping distance. The increased brake torque from larger pad radius causes your brake bias to shift forward. This forward shift will cause the front brakes to lock up much sooner than before. This means your rear brakes haven't attained their full potential before lock-up occurs. That, in turn, increases your stopping distance.

This is why big brake kits like Stop-tech, Brembo & Wilwood pair larger rotors with smaller caliper piston area (to try to maintain proper brake balance). All info on braking can found at http://www.stoptech.com in the FAQ or Technical sections...

 

Thanks. But ironically, I was thinking about the big brake kit for the REAR.

I heard a little chatter there yesterday. I don't know if the oem pads have those wear indicators that will squeal a little when the pad is low, but that's what it sounds like. If I'm buying new rotors I'm getting the big stuff.

Now, with all of this running through my head, I decided to do a couple brake checks today. The front tires go into lock up before the rears. I checked with UPS.com earlier and it looks like my full coilovers will be here this week. If I am not mistaken, the reduction in weight transfer due to the stiffer suspension and lower center of gravity will cause the fronts to lockup even sooner. (iow, less weight on the front tires with the new suspension controlling brake dive)

As such, it seems like the big brake kit on the rear (or installing a proportioning valve to help the rears) would be a good mod to keep things balanced.

Thoughts? Has anyone used these kits on their Teg GSR?

 

Sounds like you got it down...

 

....except that the stiffer springs wont directly affect the weight transfer...which is pretty much only a function of wheelbase and center of gravity when it comes to braking (and accelerating)

obviously lowering the car will affect the center of gravity.

 

Stickier tires help to increase rear brake bias too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....except that the stiffer springs wont directly affect the weight transfer...</TD></TR></TABLE>


True, but the stiffer struts will. As I said, they are full coilovers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sharad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True, but the stiffer struts will. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not directly, they wont. They'll affect body motion, but not weight transfer, the two terms are not interchangable.


Matt

 

Only a change in ride hieght (roll center) or tire compound will effect weight transfer.

 

I would not do bigger brakes in the rear, cause if you cause the rear to lock up first in any way, you'll lose control of the car.

I know this from experience.

 

Pardon me if I am not using the proper terminology.

I've taken a Bob Bondurant class, SCCA Solo II driving school, and "Hikari" driving school at Putnam Park. I know what I'm trying to say, just not expressing it properly I guess.

I'll get these struts on the car and see how it acts. I'm skeptical though. I think my braking problem will get worse.

Also, fwiw, I'm not that worried about the rear lockup issue because the car does have ABS. If I notice that the rear brakes still lock up first, I'll look into proportioning valves... Besides, in a car, I like loose better than tight!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sharad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Besides, in a car, I like loose better than tight!</TD></TR></TABLE>

When my rear would start to lock up first, it would pitch the car to either side pretty violently. Not a very good thing. Also, to add prop valves, you'd have to do a pair of them as the brake lines are run diagonally.

 

Thanks for the info!

Does your car have ABS?

Do you know anyone that makes a Proportioning Valve kit or anyone that's running one?

Thanks in advance-

-Rad

 

I've only seen custom prop systems. Wilwood makes an adjustable valve that isn't very expensive.

You can either plumb them all into 1 valve or keep the two separate diagonal system with 2 valves. 2 valves is much safer because a leak or break will only effect 2 wheels and not all 4...

***edit***
Never plumb 2 proportioning valves on the same brake line circuit. The results could be disastrous!


Modified by 94eg! at 9:04 AM 3/30/2005

 

I finally got to push the car in some corners today. This thing plows through the turns like a ****!

Man, I hope the struts/springs help that. Between the brakes being funky and the ill handling, this thing is a mess.

I wasn't planning to spend a couple grand on the daily driver to make it fun...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sharad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I finally got to push the car in some corners today. This thing plows through the turns like a ****!

Man, I hope the struts/springs help that. Between the brakes being funky and the ill handling, this thing is a mess.

I wasn't planning to spend a couple grand on the daily driver to make it fun...

</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'd look into brake pads before going to "big brake kits". You don't want too much rear bias but you don't want too much front bias either. There's an article on Stop Tech's website about proper brake bias that is a good read.

You may also want to give the guys at Cobalt Friction a call to see what front and rear pads they recommend for your car/driving needs (i.e. Street, AutoX, HPDE, all of the above).

http://www.cobaltfriction.com

off-topic: what Bondurant class did you take? I took the 3-day road race course and was amazed at how much I learned. Did you get to drive the "skid car"? That does wonders in learning how to control under/oversteer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've only seen custom prop systems. Willwood makes an adjustable valve that isn't very expensive.

You can either plumb them all into 1 valve or keep the two separate diagonal system with 2 valves. 2 valves is much safer because a leak or break will only effect 2 wheels and not all 4...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Last thing one would want is to keep the stock prop valve (diagonal system) and then plumb two adjustable prop valves into that. You'd have no idea where the knee point for the rear pressures would be, or even how the prop valves would respond. Not a good system, IMO, at all.

Also, if you remove the stock prop valve and install an adjustable one it's still a 2-sided system, the front brakes are on a separate circuit than the rears.

The ABS is not a solve-all solution, especially in a racing or high performance environment, and not all systems are created equal. I wouldn't want to create a highly rear biased sysem and relay on the ABS to keep everything in check, but without the details it's hard to give good advice here, the general statements don't apply to all situations.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last thing one would want is to keep the stock prop valve (diagonal system) and then plumb two adjustable prop valves into that. You'd have no idea where the knee point for the rear pressures would be, or even how the prop valves would respond. Not a good system, IMO, at all.

Also, if you remove the stock prop valve and install an adjustable one it's still a 2-sided system, the front brakes are on a separate circuit than the rears.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, I wasn't being specific enough. I know you NEVER plum 2 prop valves on the same circuit. I should have said that you must first remove the OEM prop valve. Then you plumb in 1 prop valve for the LF/RR brake circuit, and a second one for the RF,LR circuit.

NON ABS Honda's have their brake system divided into two separate systems. 1 is for the Right front & Left rear, and the other is for the Left front & right rear. This way if one system fails, you still have braking on both sides of the vehicle. This is also the reason that the OEM prop valve has 6 ports and not just 3 or 4. It's sorta like 2 separate valves inside one housing.