First of all, here's my setup:

eg hatch
97 JDM B18C (type-R)
skunk2 stg1 cams (w/sk2 camgears)
Comptech Race header (dynoJet run was w/ a JDM DC-Sports header)
RC eng 310 injectors
Fake J's racing intake
Hondata intake manifold gasket
perviously Kenji ECU now Hondata S200 (dynoJet and dynoPack w/ S200)

Before installing the 310 injectors and the Comptech Race header, I had the car tuned and dyno'd at Tempest Racing in Maryland, using a dynoJet. There the car made 194.6 hp and 129.3 lbstq. (camgears at +1.+1), honestly Tempest did not do much as far as tuning and I will never go back there again, they left the camgears the way I left it, and maybe played with it twice and finally said, "the way you had it, it's running fine." They didn't even give me any base run numbers, but they said they "tuned" it, sure.. either way, the car made again 194 hp/129.3 lbstq on a DynoJet.

After installing the 310 inj and the Comptech race header, I took the car to JE Performance near Baltimore, MD. James Evans tuned the car w/ a DynoPack (for those who aren't familiar, a DynoPack ties to your hubs, while a DynoJet uses rollers, also a DynoPack actually puts a load to your vehicle and produces a more accurate power reading, usually resulting in 20-30 percent less reading then a DynoJet, anyways back to what I was saying) James Evans tuned the car and did a great job, base run the car made 166.2 hp/113 lbstq, then after the awesome tuning James did, the final result was 186.3 hp/121 lbstq...

My question is (sorry for the long post, as you can see I'm a n00b), if I made 194 on a DynoJet and made 186 on a DynoPack, does this conclude that I'm making approx. 210-215 on a DynoJet?? So is this a 200 plus motor? When people are saying they have a 200 plus motor (which could possibly be a 12 sec. car) are they talkin about a motor that produces this amount of power on a DynoJet or DynoPack??

Any insight or questions will be greatly appreciated.

Martin

 

It really depends on the operator. There are many variables that a Dynapack operator can change that will have a profound effect on hp numbers. Shawn Church has his setup so that it reads about 10-11 percent higher than most local Dynojets. Someone else (Jdogg maybe???) has his set up so that it reads about the same as Dynojets in his area.
Just remember that a dyno is a useful tool for tuning, but the track is where the proof is in the pudding, so to speak.

 

Yep, Jason(Jdogg) has his Dynapac setup to run very similar to a Dynojet.

 

This is post taken from another thread...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the dynapack, what was your autoplot ramp time and the tgf set to? If you had a super long ramp time, in conjunction with them playing with the tgf than you can get extremely high readings. The tgf lets you have the ability to scale the readings by a certain percentage. Its supposed to be set to 1, but with a honda assuming a 15% drivetrain loss, you would enter 1.15 to get flywheel horsepower/torque reading.

My dynapack reads about 2-5% lower than the other dynojets in the area. Alot of this has to do with the ramp times, and leaving the tgf set to 1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My guess would be that JE's dyno's are similar to boosted hybrid's. I just had my car tuned at JE and plan to get a run on a dynojet for comparison sake. I'm expecting the difference would be around 5%.

 

I appreciate all the responses, ty for your input, I'm going to be gay and ask this question... comparing the two dyno's (I'll post charts as soon as I find out how), do I have a 200 hp plus motor, and will this possibly get me into the 12's w/ slicks?? I know it depends on the chasis (eg) and so forth, but most 200 hp producing vehicles do run near or low 13's, I know the last thing people wanna hear is what I could possibly run, before the tuning I ran 13.8-13.9 on drag radials w/ a 2.2 60 ft., hopefully I could do some what better now, my main question, is this a 200 hp plus motor? Again I apologize for the long post, I am a n00b, kthx.

Martin

 

i don't see why u can't get a high 12 with some 22" slicks.. with that much power u should be able to launch at a higher rpm with slicsk and pull a 1.7-1.8 60" and get a high 12......

 

Went to the local track this morning (Capitol Raceway, Crofton, MD) and got able to get two runs in, not because the track was full, but because I broke my passenger side axle...

My set-up..

Tein S springs
Full Race traction bar
STOCK mounts
STOCK axles (ITR axles)
205/55/14 Nitto 555 Drag Radials on HX wheels

My first run I did my usually burn out, tried to skip the wet box (got the tires a lil wet), did my burn out and ran a 14.3 @ 83 mph.. (I left the slips at the shop, I'll post the full slip tomorrow, the following is from memory), midway through the run the car suddenly started shaking real bad and I let off at the half mark (if I can remember I left off going from 2nd, going into 3rd)

2.1 60ft
80 mph @ the 1/8
11.something @ the 1/8
14.3 @ 83 mph

After the run I checked out the car couldn't figure out what was wrong, I was a lil excited to see I still ran a 14.3 letting off at the half, I was at 80 mph at the 1/8 and still ran a 14.3 @ 83.. I knew something was wrong w/ the axle, I started seeing axle grease on the pass. side, but I decided to run again..

I ran a 13.91 @ 98 mph, during this run the car started shaking @ approx. 40 mph and I was shifting at 7400/500 rpm the whole time afriad something would break, luckily nothing did.. I drove the car to the shop, the car would shake violently at 45 mph and I couldn't go any faster, took it to my shop, removed the axle, seems like I siezed it into a certain position and the axle wouldn't twist appropriately, went down to Advanced Auto and replaced the axle and drove home.

I'll have the slips tomorrow and post exactly what I ran, I'm a lil excited how I ran, I was still able to run a 14.3 letting off at the half, ran a 13.9 w/ a bad axle (shaking from 40 - 90 mph, but still managed to run a 13.9), it was stupid of me to run with a bad axle, but I spent the 20 bucks, wanted to run, plus I wanted to figure out what was wrong with the car...

I have 2 questions, after seeing what I ran I definitly think I could run a 12 sec pass. w/ slicks, right? What can I do to prevent my axles to break again (besides buying 400 dollar driveshop axles, which I dont think I need, I'm not making 250+ hp), having full race bars will motor mount inserts help?? The car did wheel hop a lot during the race, but not during the burn out... any input would be greatly appreciated, ty.

Martin

 

omg 83mph is like stock civic ex territory.


edit: i didn't read your whole post. sorry.

 

stiffer motor mounts could help the wheel hop , are u on stock struts? if so that could be a cause also..... yeah i don't see why u couldn;t get a high 12 with slick with atleast a 1.8 60 foot..... one way to stop breaking axles is to eleiminate wheel hop........my buddie went 12.71 with about the same amount of power as u . with a 1.71 60" in his Eg his may have been a little lighter than ur .. but i'm not sure

 

ty again for all the input, and yes I'm on stock shocks, but I have omnipower street full coilovers on the way, I should have them installed by next weekend, and I'm most likely going to order of set of motor mount inserts. With the omnipower coilovers, full-race traction bars, poly motor mount inserts, should this cure my wheel hop problem??

I think the only reason I broke/seized the axle was due to wheel hop, I dont think I'm making enough power to be breaking axles.. in the near future I plan to purchase slicks and a set of lenso then again I'll be more afriad at this point to break axles, the following are my time slips from sunday..

My first run, breakin an axle midway and coasting to the end...

R/T .854
60' 2.195
330 5.940
1/8 9.037
MPH 80.20 &lt;---80 mph @ 1/8 and still coasted to a 14.3/82.16 mph
1000 11.735
1/4 14.333
MPH 82.16

Here's my second run, decided to run again to figure what was wrong, at this point I still didn't know that I broke and seized my passenger axle, I wanted to run again to see what was wrong, why the car was shaking violently around 40 mph..

R/T .749
60' 2.157
330 5.871
1/8 8.973
MPH 80.23
1000 11.634
1/4 13.915
MPH 98.74

At this point I was shifting @ 7200 rpm (usually I shift @ 8400, where the powr curve starts falling according to dyno), the car shaking from 40 mph - 98 mph really horribly but I still managed to run a 13 sec pass, by next weekend I'll have motor mount inserts, omnipower full coilovers, and hopefully run a low 13/high 12 on drag radials, I'm sure I'll run 12's on slicks, right??

Again thx for all the input, ty.

Martin

 

I just got my car back from JE today.



This should be good for about 205-210whp on a dynojet.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1148941

 

in my exper. most dyno packs read 10-15% higher than my dyno jet ( at least the ones around here) but no matter what dyno you take your car to, as long as you stick with that original dyno, you will be able to track your progress. when you start hopping around to defferent dynos (even of the same kind) that is where you will get frustrated

 

I agree with the consensus here so far. Trying to compare outputs from different types of dyno's = fruitless. Especially when dealing with a variable load dyno.

Just be happy that they were able to squeeze 20 horsepower from your setup from tuning . . . . . If you like, what you could do is find out from the shop & operator where you went what a typical result is for a stock B18 is for them, and you can get a good idea of how much more power compared to stock you're making.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HOOKUPS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in my exper. most dyno packs read 10-15% higher than my dyno jet ( at least the ones around here) but no matter what dyno you take your car to, as long as you stick with that original dyno, you will be able to track your progress. when you start hopping around to defferent dynos (even of the same kind) that is where you will get frustrated </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's all in the user settings with Dynapack's.

 

The shop I used to work at had a dynapack and our dyno would give a higher reading then most dynojets in the surrouding areas. I'm not going to go into the whole debate about which one is better and more accurate because its stupid, but I prefer to use a dynapack. 6ghatch even came up and got his car dyno at the shop before. Their are ways to modify a dynapack to give ridicilous numbers, and some shops probably do that but its doesn't make it right because they will be scratching their head trying to figure out why their car made 200whp on the dyno but can only trap at 95mph.


Modified by goforbroke at 10:21 PM 3/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just remember that a dyno is a useful tool for tuning, but the track is where the proof is in the pudding, so to speak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that was the perfect way of putting it. Sometimes I think everyone spends too much time trying to get dyno numbers rather than spending the time running at the track and getting a real idea of how fast their car is or isn't

 

i trailer my car 600 miles back down to florida to use a certain dyno because i am looking at the consistency of THAT particular dyno, i have used it for 3 years now, its an MD dyno. i really dont care about the numbers, i care about the tune and how well it runs

i usually overload the hell out of my car by like 400 pounds on the weight so that my tune always turns out a little better.

 

6ghatch... very nice numbers, very nice build, James is a great tuner imo.

ty again for all the input, I turned this thread to my own "how fast do you think my car will go" thread and I apologize, I'll stick to what I started..

a lot of people have posted that dynoPack's produce higher numbers then a dynoJet, all along I've been hearing differently, I've always thought dynoJet's produce higher numbers due to the fact the dyno doesn't put a load on the car like a dynoPack does, but either or, I went to Tempest (dynoJet) and my first tuning experience and was disappointed, not at the numbers (196 hp) but as the entire tuning experience in general (not having a base number, etc.). Having James tune the car at JE was a better experience I will continue to use James and his dynoPack (where it produced a lower number, but now I know due to the type of dyno). Just an overview..

DynoJet: 196 hp

DynoPack: 166 hp then tuned to 186 hp

again James at JE Performance is the man, anyone in the MD/PA/VA area should most definately pay JE a visit, thx James.

Martin

 

That may be because you are on the east coast. Most of the people I know of that set up their dynapacks properly are in the east.

 

I don't care what the Dynapack operator say, but a Dynapack will never be a Dyno Jet. We have one that reads higher, one reads lower, one reads about the same... so WTF is it anyway? That's what I don't like. Dynapacks are best reserved for tuning and numbers are there for comparison's sake before and after tuning only. To use this number for a general comparison with Dyno Jets is no different than comparing apples with oranges. One has wheels attached, one doesn't.

I don't get why people have the urge to call Dynapack readout "WHP". There are no wheels attached, and like everybody says, it's hub HP.

Just bring the car to the Dyno Jet and it will end all the doubts

 

I don't want this to be a numbers game but to help the non believers about JE's dyno here is a graph of a mostly stock 2001 ITR with Toda header and 2.5in SMSP cat (green). Then tuned with VAFC. (red)

Baseline 154whp, 107tq. After tuning with VAFC he got 169whp, 112tq.

 

Like I said before, James is a great tuner, 169 out of a stock but tuned b18c5, my base run was 166 with my set up and James was able to get 186 out of it, a 20 hp gain, my set up again is:


JDM b18c (type-R)
skunk2 stage 1 cams
Hondata intake manifold gasket
Comptech Race Header
RC 310 inj.
Fake J's racing intake

to get 186 w/ minor bolt on and stage 1 cams I'm very pleased, reliability.

Martin

 

i've learned to go to a dynojet for a graph and to use a dynapack for tuning....

On Jeff Evans aka Boosted Hybrid's Dynapack i made 139whp after his exquisite tune of my Power FC; i took the car to DRT dyno a few days later for a few runs vs. some older run files i had and it put down 155...

however, i have heard of Church's dyno reading rather high and when we trained Knowledge Performance in GA, they dynoed a Spoon b18c with a roughly tuned Power FC and Toda header and it put down 192 on their dynapack- and 200+ with a finely tuned Hondata....pretty meaty numbers for an engine that is only rated a few hp over that at the crank!