Integra just died on me...
I was driving home and my car died on me...I was going about 50 in 5th gear.Then tryed giving it a little gas and it just did nothing.Kinda like i let off the gas.Im not sure what it is.It cranks over fine it just doesent start.You can hear the fule pump fine.Im thinking it may be the distributor.I pulled the wires out of the dizzy and held a screwdriver too them.There was no spark.Im not sure if this is the correct way of checking it but i saw my teacher due this before.Any idea of what it could be?
I had a problem a few years ago with my teg, I won't tell you what I did wrong, but I'll tell you what I messed up.
Troubleshooting showed no spark on all 4. Went according to the Haynes manual on finding out the problem, as far as checking resistance to see if the coil was bad, and according to this test it wasn't. Ended up changing the ICM, no different. After a while I pulled out the coil, and it was visably charred from grounding itself, or something. Changed it and it was fine.
Bottom line, if you've checked and spark is the only part of the combustion equasion that doesn't add up, pull the "dizzy" apart and visably check for probs [As in the cap, rotor, coil, and icm] before you start spending $$$. If you don't see a problem, start with the cheap stuff. Esp the stuff that gets replaced for preventative maintenance, like the rotor and cap and stuff. BUT!!! If it was the rotor or cap, as it was failing you should get a misfire condition instead of a full death. Especially the cap, not so much the rotor, when it comes to normal wear. If it's mechanically broken then that's a different story.
If it's all 4 cylinders, go for the parts that affect all 4.
If this sounds like just common sense, I'm not trying to put anyone down with it, I'm just trying to help with my own experiences.
Hope this helps some.
Hope you weren't in the middle of nowhere!!
Troubleshooting showed no spark on all 4. Went according to the Haynes manual on finding out the problem, as far as checking resistance to see if the coil was bad, and according to this test it wasn't. Ended up changing the ICM, no different. After a while I pulled out the coil, and it was visably charred from grounding itself, or something. Changed it and it was fine.
Bottom line, if you've checked and spark is the only part of the combustion equasion that doesn't add up, pull the "dizzy" apart and visably check for probs [As in the cap, rotor, coil, and icm] before you start spending $$$. If you don't see a problem, start with the cheap stuff. Esp the stuff that gets replaced for preventative maintenance, like the rotor and cap and stuff. BUT!!! If it was the rotor or cap, as it was failing you should get a misfire condition instead of a full death. Especially the cap, not so much the rotor, when it comes to normal wear. If it's mechanically broken then that's a different story.
If it's all 4 cylinders, go for the parts that affect all 4.
If this sounds like just common sense, I'm not trying to put anyone down with it, I'm just trying to help with my own experiences.
Hope this helps some.
Hope you weren't in the middle of nowhere!!
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the coil from napa was around 70 bucks...i remember i took apart the dizzy about 6 months ago.There was a few washers that connected the coil or grounded it.I believe some of them were misplaced.Not positive...But it worked fine for 6 months.You think its a problem with the dizzy though?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by narib2oo1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You think its a problem with the dizzy though?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I don't mean the dizzy itself, but the parts in it. You know, how they have the coil and icu in there too...
No I don't mean the dizzy itself, but the parts in it. You know, how they have the coil and icu in there too...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondandy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine did the same thing, I was replacing ignition parts since I had no spark....turns out the dizzy wasn't even spinnin since the timing belt broke</TD></TR></TABLE>
OUCH!!!
When you tried to start it up after that, did it sound like an electric motor? As in the engine rotated smooth?
I think it's the dizzy or something in it because you say it's spark you're not getting, and all 4 cylinders are dead. You didn't mention a misfire, just death, so working back from the spark plugs, to the plug wires, to the cap, to the rotor, AH there's the first thing that will affect all 4. Check that, then everything else under that will also affect all 4, coil, then icu, then from there is the ECU... I doubt that's shot.
Going back to the cap, it includes part of the circuit, if you will, that connects from the coil to the rotor. Check where that spring from the coil touches the cap, and maybe pull a little on it to make sure it's making a good connection. Reminds me of the spring in a retractable pen. I remember back in the day streching them out to shoot pen pieces farther.
Maybe it's not spark you're missing? How did you come to that conclusion?
OUCH!!!
When you tried to start it up after that, did it sound like an electric motor? As in the engine rotated smooth?
I think it's the dizzy or something in it because you say it's spark you're not getting, and all 4 cylinders are dead. You didn't mention a misfire, just death, so working back from the spark plugs, to the plug wires, to the cap, to the rotor, AH there's the first thing that will affect all 4. Check that, then everything else under that will also affect all 4, coil, then icu, then from there is the ECU... I doubt that's shot.
Going back to the cap, it includes part of the circuit, if you will, that connects from the coil to the rotor. Check where that spring from the coil touches the cap, and maybe pull a little on it to make sure it's making a good connection. Reminds me of the spring in a retractable pen. I remember back in the day streching them out to shoot pen pieces farther.
Maybe it's not spark you're missing? How did you come to that conclusion?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by narib2oo1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the coil from napa was around 70 bucks...i remember i took apart the dizzy about 6 months ago.There was a few washers that connected the coil or grounded it.I believe some of them were misplaced.Not positive...But it worked fine for 6 months.You think its a problem with the dizzy though?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A visable check of the coil may be all you need, look for a chared surface like I had. Had to take it out to see it. Either way, if you can't find a cheaper price, you can always spend the 70 bones, put it in, if it doesn't help, take it out and bring it back. Thats what I did when I got the ICU when I thought it was suspect and didn't work.
If nothing else is working for you, just try doing that with each part, just so you can get back on the road as soon as possible. I know I'd want to be. heheh.
A visable check of the coil may be all you need, look for a chared surface like I had. Had to take it out to see it. Either way, if you can't find a cheaper price, you can always spend the 70 bones, put it in, if it doesn't help, take it out and bring it back. Thats what I did when I got the ICU when I thought it was suspect and didn't work.
If nothing else is working for you, just try doing that with each part, just so you can get back on the road as soon as possible. I know I'd want to be. heheh.
i checked the timing belt and it was still on there so i know its not that.I checked the spark by putting a screwdriver too the plug wires and then on the dizzy itself,while turning it over.Nothing happend
Can't just put a screwdriver to it, you have to get it to a ground to complete the circuit. Take a wire off a plug, pull the boot back, and get it about 1/4" from a good ground, then have someone crank it.
Recommend the use of an insulated tool doing this, or maybe some rubber gloves.
Recommend the use of an insulated tool doing this, or maybe some rubber gloves.
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