have to change my pads, so i'm thinking of doing the lines too. is there a huge difference between the -2 and -3 size from goodrich? i mean is the size that important? they're braided so they wont increase in dia. anyways, so one would have more fluid than the other or what? they both should act the same right?

the (goodrich) -3 front/rear is about 115$+ship
the -2 f/r is about 235$+sh
then i found a brand called spieglar for 140$+ ...

i heard i want to get them w/ the coating so it doesnt f* my fairings, anyone know if goodrich's has the clear coat on them?

how about the kevlar brake lines? are they better than the ss lines (~180$+shp) ??

thx.

 

good q's im about to do the same thing, so i'd like to know too

 

IIRC, the -2/-3 refer to a smaller diameter for the brake line. Thus, less fluid/faster braking action.

Just the upgrade from stock lines to stainless steel brake lines makes a huge difference. I believe the -2 (and -3) lines are more expensive than "regular" SS lines.

As for the clear coat, I believe most lines come with it. If not, you could always wrap it with something (tape?) on the parts that could rub.

IMO, you don't need the rear SS line. Save a bit of cash and just do the fronts.

 

awesome.

know anything about kevlar brake lines? all my friends, without even knowing anything about them, screamed kevlar over ss just because you could walk around saying you have kevlar break lines ....

my rear locks up easy as it is so i guess u're rite about not needing it in the back, that and i hardly use the rear to begin with .....

 

Kevlar is probably a little more burst resistant. But i doubt most people need anything better than your typical ss lines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kevlar is probably a little more burst resistant. But i doubt most people need anything better than your typical ss lines. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly “most” people don’t need anything other than stock brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drip pan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Honestly “most” people don’t need anything other than stock brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much time do you have on bikes with stock lines compared to SS?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RebornGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How much time do you have on bikes with stock lines compared to SS?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Years...you?

Honestly, most people never ride a bike to any where close to its limits. I always tell people, upgrade the rider, not the bike.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drip pan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Honestly “most” people don’t need anything other than stock brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO, depends on the bike, how your ride, where you ride etc etc etc blah blah blah blah

The brakes on my SV suck ***, got better with Galfer SS lines, have pads but have not put them on yet.

I got used to riding my RC with it's stock beefy brakes ........then went back to the SV....holy crap those brakes suck ..........gotta gix 750 frontend sittin in the garage though


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drip pan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

......

Honestly, most people never ride a bike to any where close to its limits.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree with your comment here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backlash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO, depends on the bike, how your ride, where you ride etc etc etc blah blah blah blah

</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is very true

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backlash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I agree with your comment here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A buddy of mine got pissed when i told him that his bike has only seen the limits of the rider, not its own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drip pan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

.......
A buddy of mine got pissed when i told him that his bike has only seen the limits of the rider, not its own.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably because in the back of his mind somewhere he knows that, but wants to deny himself the truth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backlash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Probably because in the back of his mind somewhere he knows that, but wants to deny himself the truth.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO, He considers himself a "skilled rider"... but the center is all thats worn on his tires.

 

Do you track your bike? If you answer no, I would seriously ask yourself why you actually WANT them. More then likely you don't NEED them.

If you answer yes, did you experience brake fade on track? If so do the following one at a time and repeat back to the previous question until the answer is no.

1. Upgrade your fluid
2. Upgrade your pad compound
3. Upgrade your brake line material

I NEVER faded the stock brakes on the streets. Call me a *****.

After one track event though. Another story. My OE pads were gone after that and fluid was boiled.

So I had some Motul RBF600 fluid left over from my car and got some EBC Double H pads front and Kevlar rear pads. I use the **** out of my rear brakes. I'm use to it and bike feels more stable to me.

Next event what a difference. Now yes Double H pads are a bit noisy (at least the ones I got), but I daily drove Panther +'s on my old car, so these are nothing in comparison to the pads on my car. Fade was non-existent AND that was going from the small Jefferson Circuit to Summit Main which is a MUCH faster course. Not necessarily more braking, but higher speed. I'm sold.

Still on stock twelve year old brake hoses. If one ever dryrots or bursts etc... Then I will probably upgrade the lines. I'm pretty comfortable with the set-up now. The stroke isn't very far as is. Between released and touching the handlebar, it only travels about half that. So I am curious as to people who have upgraded, if there were any negative side effects. Decreased stroke? Decreased modulation etc...?

The only thing that concerns me is on my car, I could put the pedal to the floor on stock rubber hoses even with Motul and Carbotechs. I could stand on the pedal with steel lines and only go about half way, even after a full 20-25 minute session. Now on my car this was GREAT. On my bike, I'm not so sure I would want such a small stroke, as modulation may be a little tough to get use to.

Comments?





Modified by Mr Hammond at 1:46 PM 3/24/2005

 

I have not experienced fade on the street. But that's prob because I don't ride hard on the street.

I have experienced fade on the track with my sv though, and this is what I did, sort of out of order than what you suggested in your post so though.

1. Upgrade your fluid (and I still experienced fade)
3. Upgrade your brake line material (Galfer SS lines, still experienced fade near the end of the day)
2. Upgrade your pad compound (this is next, I have pads already for the SV, but I also have the gix fronted, so I may not get to this step by itself )

EDIT: I corrected some grammar mistakes

 

Care to share your thoughts on the steel lines?

Do they help reduce fade at all? How was lever feel? Modulation? Stroke? Increase/decrease etc...

 

The steel lines do help. They give you a better "feel" of the brakes, so they are not as squishy under hard braking. Much better feel. I don't think that the SS lines had as big (as in insanely noticeable) of an effect on stroke increase/decrease as bleeding the brakes did though. Although a difference can and will be noticed, at least for me.

Throughout my trackday I did still have some fade, I'm hard on my brakes at the track though. Plus it being like 90+ degrees and running the bike all day, some fade is to be expected (stock grade pads too). However I had less fade with the SS lines. I think it was a good investment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drip pan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Years...you?

Honestly, most people never ride a bike to any where close to its limits. I always tell people, upgrade the rider, not the bike.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree about upgrading the rider but I fail to see how adding SS lines for a more progressive brake feel is something that only fast riders need. In my opinion every rider can benefit from a more progressive and accurate lever pull.

The SS lines will help some with fade but I feel that the greatest improvement is in the lever pull because the SS lines are much firmer than the stock rubber hoses so there will be much less flex in the lines.

 

I see. That was my biggest thing was bleeding the brakes with fresh Motul. I guess I should have clarified. After bleeding, the sponginess was gone and stroke was decreased. I'm just curious that if I do change, what effects I can expect.

Well perhaps you may be getting fade from not being hard enough on your brakes. Meaning perhaps braking too early or not 100%, or throttling off and easing into your brakes, or dragging at first and progressively increasing etc... I had to learn this in my car, as well as on my bike. Meaning waiting as late as possible, braking HARD then off quickly in one smooth motion. I think it all comes with experience and increasing confidence. That took care of fade problems for me as well as increased longevity quite a bit on rotors as it doesn't allow nearly the amount of heat build up. Not saying it is your issue, but is an issue that exists none the less.

 

not to change the subject, but here's some info on kevlar brake lines and why not to use them.

http://www.h-e-l.co.uk/HEL_Per...s.htm

 

I already brake as late as possible (that I can handle), getting later and later as practice on the track permits.

 

SS brake lines are not designed to combat brake fade, they reduce the expansion of the line volume keeping the lever travel linear in relationship to the pressure exerted by the piston.

Anybody can benefit from this. They do not push the performance envelope as many mods do, they enhance the feedback provided to a rider allowing anyone to be a better rider due to increased confidence.

Rear brakes may actually be better with stock rubber hoses for most people because they give some "bound" so that the rear brake is not as easily engaged abruptly and locked. The actual braking power provided by the rear is quite small in hard braking situations after the initial weight transfer

Many stainless steel brake lines on the commercial market are kevlar lines internally wrapped in stainless steel braid. Thus the actual brake line is a kevlar hose. These are different from kevlar lines as noted.

 

tony knows what he's talking about because he agrees with me