Just wondering are there any tips that can help me with reinspection. I searched, but didn't come up with anything that could help me other than to retest while the engine is hot. I would like to get the "problem" fixed, but I simply don't have the cash at the moment. Any and all help is appreciated

edit: I dunno if Firefox is resizing, or my hoster, so to view the pic jus save it to the comp and enlarge manually. Sorry

 

what was the problem with inspection/test??

 

sorry, I guess you can't see in the pic. According to the test, the standard NOx(ppm) is 945 and I had 1027. That was only at 25 mph. I passed the same gas at 15 mph. I have no idea what all of this meant, but the mechanic told me that it would be $90 simply to diagnose, not including the price to fix

 

Check the accord how to thread and there should be a link to Rotary Bzzz's thread on how to pass emissions tests. that should help you alot.

*edit* you will need to search for it. Just search in archived posts under the name Rotary Bzzz I think and limit it to the accord forum.

 

$90 bucks to diagnose is BS. Go to your local autozone and they'll do it for free. OBDII cars only though.

 

Here is the thread I was talking about
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=313708

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -RedneckDave- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the thread I was talking about
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=313708</TD></TR></TABLE>
you own

I knew there was sumthin to do with fuel injector cleaner, but I wasn't sure if I was suppose to run that only, or with gas

thx for the help. now I may pass bs emissions

 

REDNECK DAVE FOR ACCORD FORUM MODERATOR!!

 

One more question...

In the accord emissions thread they talk about fuel injector cleaner. I just bought some, and I think that and the oil change i got 3 days ago should help me pass. I'm jus curious as to when I should put it in. Currently I have 1/8 tank left of 87 octane. Should I wait for my gas to almost run out then put in the fuel injector cleanor, should I go refill it with 87 octane then put in the F.I.C., or should i go fill it up with the highest octane i can find then add the cleaner? I need to retest before Saturday otherwise I will hafta pay for the test again. Also should I remove my air filter before the test? Thanks again for all the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mysterious_2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Currently I have 1/8 tank left of 87 octane. Should I wait for my gas to almost run out then put in the fuel injector cleanor, should I go refill it with 87 octane then put in the F.I.C., or should i go fill it up with the highest octane i can find then add the cleaner? I need to retest before Saturday otherwise I will hafta pay for the test again. Also should I remove my air filter before the test? Thanks again for all the help</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hi

You should
1) Add the fuel injector cleaner before you put gas in. Then...
2) Fill up with highest octane gas. Do this all now b/k you need to let the injector cleaner do its cleaning ; it can only do this with you driving the car.
3) Yes, remove the aircleaner before you test. I garuntee it will lower your emissions somewhat.
4) Before the test, run the car hot and hard for 20-30 minutes beforehand. Try and do the test immediately as you pull in (try and go when it's not busy).

The high speed fast and furious driving will help blow carbon buildup out of your exhaust system
= Can help lower emissions (frankly, you should notice your car running a bit smoother afterward).
= Your cat. convertors are more efficient when they're freakin hot.

5) Try and go on a warmer day if possible. No use having rain / cold weather lowering your convertor temps.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

PS: did you change your spark plugs?

 

Do you think using some seafoam before going to get tested would help. I know that stuff cleans a lot of built up **** out of motors.

 

I've never used it myself....I don't think it could hurt. But I think it depends on how you're using it (ie injecting it into the intake manifold / etc.)

I believe it uses a detergent-like action to dissolve carbon outta the head/piston tops. Kinda like ATF.

Probably a good idea to Google it:

"seafoam problems"

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t68134.html

 

I have used it and it seems to work very well. It makes the exhaust look crazy for a while but it does seem to clean everything out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Legendaryyaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$90 bucks to diagnose is BS. Go to your local autozone and they'll do it for free. OBDII cars only though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW...a free diagnose, then what. he never mentioned that he had a check engine light on

 

It looks like possibly pluged egr ports, or bad O2 sensor (should through a code).

Have a look at this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1026563

Try this link:
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf


Here are a few more possibilities
(By Peter, Associate Technical Writer, BAT Auto Technical)

High NOx on driving Test
- Inoperative or ineffective EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system
- Excessive lean air/fuel ratio
- Inoperative or missing catalytic converter (three way catalytic)
- Excessive spark advance
- Faulty Thermostatic Air Cleaner (TAC) system
- Defective computerized engine management and/or Oxygen sensor
- Engine Deposits (Carbon)
- Engine Mechanical defect(s)

 

OP: It might be my computer but saving your file and openning it in MS viewer doesn't resize anything. All i get is a blurry lo-res pic.

 

damn, dat seafoam shyt sounds interesting....never heard of it tho, can sumone gimme sum mo info on it and where to buy??

 

sorry bout the hijack

any tips for us OBDII cars?

 

Pretty much the same. Removing the airfilter might throw a code but don't quote me on that.

Your systems operate in much tighter parameters. And if there's a check-light or anything else being thrown, you can't pass anyway since they just plug their computer in*.


* don't have actual experience watching / working w/ OBDII cars + smog

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Removing the airfilter might throw a code but don't quote me on that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is hillarious!! Throwing a code because of better air flow!! Who ever told you that needs to be shot.

 

well i failed my retest

i failed the same gas. i forgot to check the numbers to see if i did better or worse, i didnt really care to check. things i did to help pass
1. fuel injector cleaner
2. high octane fuel
3. oil change
4. remove air filter (makes the car sound INCREDIBLY BAD ***)

o well, thx guys. i appreciate all the help. i will post the results of my latest test tomorrow when i get some time

accord forum

 

I recently had a major NOx issue with my 87 Accord. It finally passed quite well. Here's the post with what I did and the results:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878095

I also flushed my radiator, replaced the thermostat (same temp - 190), and added new coolant.

NOx reduction requires the engine's combustion chamber to run cool. That's why I retarded the timing to minimum levels and opened the gap on the plugs just a bit. I raised the RPM just a bit since my engine would stumble here and there during the test and dump raw gas to the exhaust. You may not need to do this.

BTW, I'm in California, and all 'legit' testers will send you packing if you remove the air filter. Make sure you have it with you, just in case.



Modified by Ardfarkle at 11:49 AM 3/26/2005