a/f gage not working
drive around for awhile, mine didnt work when i put it in and i thought it was broke but after the car warmed up for awhile and i drove around it works...try that out?
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So.....
White = o2 sensor (which wire?)
Red = Power (to where?)
Black = Ground ( to where?)
Where exactly did yoou guys run these wires to? And for those who have eg's I dont want a gauge pod so where did you put your gauges? Thanks.
White = o2 sensor (which wire?)
Red = Power (to where?)
Black = Ground ( to where?)
Where exactly did yoou guys run these wires to? And for those who have eg's I dont want a gauge pod so where did you put your gauges? Thanks.
Heated o2 sensors will start reading air/fuel mixture more quickly than a non-heated o2 sensor. This is due to o2 sensors being cold natured. They do not produce good voltage when they are cold, therefore the faster they get hot, the quicker they can read air/fuel ratio. A heated o2 sensor should start reading in no more than 2-5 minutes. If it takes any longer then that, there is something wrong and you might want to check to see if your o2 sensor gets hot before your exhaust (jack car up, start it COLD so that the exhaust is cold and hold the o2 sensor and see if it gets hot. It should get hot quickly, much faster then the exhaust pipe should. If it doesnt, then you may have a bad heater circuit, but this would most likely set a check engine light because it check the voltage going to it. I have a non-heated o2 sensor in my car, and it's reading within 2 - 5 minutes. So... after rambling on about all that... find a power source that only has power with key on, such as cigarette lighter or the ignition switch. There are many things that you can use, but find a good ground source too and clean the metal that you are grounding it to. Hook the signal wire up to the o2 sensor by soldering it in. Splicing isn't good enough (in my personal opinion) because o2 sensors dont create much voltage, and the slightest bit of corrosion can throw off your reading or make it read nothing at all. Soldering it will give it the best connection which you can keep corrosion free by using shrink tubing that you heat up and it forms to the wire for a air-tight fit.
Yo this is exactly what i was trying to explain in this post but some kid tried to shoot me down thanks for even more backup!!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1190000---pwned
Sean
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1190000---pwned
Sean
its not the - or the + becouse the gage reads ritch when not hook up, but as soon as u hjook it up to the white wire it reeads nothing even when it runs for a 30 min.
that sucks. In the future, try to use a good kind of A/F, the common ones dont really work that well and all they are, are just lights. But the down fall is that they are expensive. $500 and up. My company make one, but it's to wide (wide range)
You can get a wideband for less than 300 dollars now. All a narrowband does is give you a very small portion of the band (honda a/f guages run between 0-1V. A TechEdge runs between 0-5v, effectively showing 5 times as much range) and will only give you a general idea of whats going on.
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