ok replaced distributor, grounds seem to be good, double checked all the changed wires from ecu to plugs and all check up, gets fuel, NO spark at all...

when I try to start the car, it makes a wonderful cranking sound, but due to the lack of a spark, it will not do anything. if I let it crank for probably 15 seconds or so, it will turn on the check engine light and I get an error code 8 for TDC (even though the circuit is good and its a new distributor).

I spent a good 2 hours this evening just checking wires with my Ohm tester... and I was wondering how many Ohms I should be getting for the "ground" pins at A2,A4,A6,A16 and A18... I am getting 47Ω, 50Ω, 96Ω, 9.8Ω, and 13.8Ω (respectively) is that too high on all of those? if so, can I just tap them all together and ground it at a different place?

 

bump let me know on these Ω readings

 

have u tried using a jumpstarter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hndacrx2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have u tried using a jumpstarter?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

no difference... plenty of power no spark

 

okay does anyone think a MSD SCI ignition setup might work?

 

anyone?

 

resistance on the grounds comes from unclean grounds.

the main from the battery to the chassis itself, remove it, use a wire wheel and scrape any paint away, and clean the ring terminal itself.

reinstall. check your readings again, see if youve helped decrease the resistence. you can also do the same for the thermostat housing.

how did you handle the wiring? did the car have mpfi or did you have to add that as well as this b16?

sounds like a wiring issue to me if your sure that dizzy is good, double check nothing is crossed at the dizzy plug.

 

Check and re-check all fuses,grounds,and connections...

 

if there is no spark i would check the coil you could have fried it or it could be bad..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMisGOOD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check and re-check all fuses,grounds,and connections...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">resistance on the grounds comes from unclean grounds.

the main from the battery to the chassis itself, remove it, use a wire wheel and scrape any paint away, and clean the ring terminal itself.

reinstall. check your readings again, see if youve helped decrease the resistence. you can also do the same for the thermostat housing.

how did you handle the wiring? did the car have mpfi or did you have to add that as well as this b16?

sounds like a wiring issue to me if your sure that dizzy is good, double check nothing is crossed at the dizzy plug.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


ok well I did the grounding and it helped a tad bit, but no spark still... so A2 had 42Ω, A4 had 43Ω, A6 had 88Ω, A16 had 42Ω, and A18 had 42Ω (however 16 and 18 went up quite a bit... can anyone please check these grounds with their setup and let me know what similar readings should be?

I converted from dpfi to mpfi and added vtec and repinned the ecu pins and that was pretty much the extent of wiring... I redid the whole engine harness using the DX setup.

I agree that it sounds like a wiring problem but I cannot seem to find any problems with the wiring

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if there is no spark i would check the coil you could have fried it or it could be bad..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried the coil from the old distributor too... both of them pass the tests I was instructed to do previously.


I am getting an Error code 8 for TDC still.... but thats all it will tell me.

 

gotta check the b16 helms man, in the middle of the document, before the troubleshooting flowcharts, is a page that has all three ecu plugs, and where each wire goes.

you now have to run continuity on each, one of the wires going to the dizzy has to be wrong, or the dizzy is faulty, if its throwing a code.

dont overcomplicate it for yourself, and dont assume anything when you troubleshoot wiring. its tedius but youll find it.

does that multimeter have a setting where it beeps when you touch the two terminals together? use it to run a continuity check on your wires at the dizzy, and their respective pin at the ECU. run one of the probes through the firewall, or around the outside of the car itself if your probes can reach, and go at the actual pin, and at this point, IGNORE the colors. youve got two sets of colors going on, and it doesnt really matter anymore anyway. you just need to make this ecu happy and that car will start... ok?

post the answer if you get it so other people searching for this thread can see if they did the same thing.

good luck man.

 

ps heres you new bible, right click save as:

http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t...t.pdf

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gotta check the b16 helms man, in the middle of the document, before the troubleshooting flowcharts, is a page that has all three ecu plugs, and where each wire goes.

you now have to run continuity on each, one of the wires going to the dizzy has to be wrong, or the dizzy is faulty, if its throwing a code.

dont overcomplicate it for yourself, and dont assume anything when you troubleshoot wiring. its tedius but youll find it.

does that multimeter have a setting where it beeps when you touch the two terminals together? use it to run a continuity check on your wires at the dizzy, and their respective pin at the ECU. run one of the probes through the firewall, or around the outside of the car itself if your probes can reach, and go at the actual pin, and at this point, IGNORE the colors. youve got two sets of colors going on, and it doesnt really matter anymore anyway. you just need to make this ecu happy and that car will start... ok?

post the answer if you get it so other people searching for this thread can see if they did the same thing.

good luck man. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok I already did the ecu wire testing... good on all the plugs... I also have that pdf already...

I have an idea... maybe the top dead center code actually means something mechanical is wrong, and I am thinking theres a possibility that the crank is on the wron stroke from the cams? if you get that... but I want to loosen the timing belt from the cams and turn the crank one time and then hook it back up... ever heard of that?

 

ok I guess that doen't make sense to turn the crank different so I won't bother taking off the timing belt and crap, plus its raining. however... I read through that b16 bible a bit and I came accross a walkthrough to troubleshoot the TDC error... and I got all the way to the end where it says to try a working ecu... so, does anyone have an extra one laying around I can try? (lol)

 

ok so check this out... the people at the engine importer were nice to me and they gave me a new ecu to try... its a pw0 and instead of the error code 8 I get an error code 15 now (one long flash, 5 short) which is for ignition output signal (still not firing up) I am about to research that stuff but does anyone have suggestions at this point?

 

ok well since no replies yet... I followed the troubleshooter in that manual and I only get 6.4~6.6 volts between ground(A18) and B15 for ignitor output. it says it needs 10V and if not replace ignitor. I will try that, but would it have no voltage with a bad ignitor?

 

still no responses huh... well I changed the ingitor out and now I get 10.1 volts like it says I should be getting but I still get an error code 15... the only thing it says is left is trying a different ecu, but I know this one is better than the last one...any more ideas to solve code 15? the engine light comes on after like 3 cranks for that code.

 

bump

 

have you cheked the distributor wire i know it has two white wire they can be backwards check that, that happend to me

 

first of all where the hell did u get the ohm sign from? second of all fix the code first dont worry about injectors

 

ok ya thats what I'm trying to do oh and all the wires are correct I have checked like 15 times ...

 

Damn dude, bump to get that 4dr up and running.