I am currently using a B20B block with high compression forged 84mm pistons, stock conrods, stock crank and blockguard. My head is from a B16A but the valvetrain and cams are still stock at the moment. The injectors and fuel rail are from a Type R. Running Exedy racing clutch plate with a Winsport clutch cover. Using a 4.4 final drive wif a lightened flywheel. What do the experts here recommend for cams and what is a good vtec crossover point if i run on stock cams and do not have access to a dyno?

 

a cheap gangsta set-up is the jun2 witch is more aggresive than the jun 3 intake camshaft (longer duration) with a itr exhaust.

 

Yea, the JUN2/ITR setup is good for those on a budget.. but the JUN2/JUN2 pair makes a solid 5hp more across the board, and pulls higher.

 

Man, I would clay the valve/piston clearence.
http://www.c-speedracing.com

I have read that there is some major clearance issues with the B20's and VTEC heads.
http://www.crvtec.com

 

How are you putting forged pistons on stock rods??

 

ditch the blockguard, unless you want a good reason to resleeve (-crack- then you'll know why not to get sleeves which close the deck- cooling problems). get Eagle forged rods- ~$350, and they won't bend or stretch (or snap) when you rev those Juns to ~9K RPM. if you insist on stock rods, at least have the wrist pins fully-floated to help relieve sideloading/friction (and thus free up a little power) at high RPM, and use ARP rod and head bolts torqued to Honda OE specs. if you plan revving high for long periods, have the oil gallery tapped for under-piston oil sprayers (~$300). get a GSR/ITR or Z10 main cap girdle (if you use the GSR/ITR, shave the longer main cap to fit the girdle- do not shave the girdle); use dowels between the main caps and girdle. spot face the head to match the larger bore (or risk knocking/detonating with higher compression); mill the b16a head .030" to increase the quench are (to reduce chance of knocking). only use OEM Honda bearings.

 

get a dc sports jdm itr 4-1 header w/2.5" collector, and a itr/skunk2 intake and itr or larger (62mm+ tb) for better breathing for the longer stroke.

 

My friend has the JUN type 3's in his CRVTEC, they make power up until about 9,200. He has JE 13.0:1 pistons stock rods and reved it to 9500. I like those cams top end, unfortunately the DoEs AnYoNe KnOw WheRe I CaN GeT SoMe StRObE LiTEZ AnD LiGhT uP WiNdShiElD NoZzLeS??ers shattered and blew the motor. Damn Portflow valvespring bottomed out. I would strongly recommend goin with Eagle rods they only cost about $300-350. Toda spec B's are nice too, not quite as much top end power but the mid range is crazy. Or i would just go with 2000+ ITR's or CTR's, they are the same.

 

Toda A/B/C intake
ITR exhaust for cheapness

 

Thanks for the advice. I was using PSI(Power Service Imazu) 290+ deg cams on my engine. Used Type R valves with PSI valvesprings. The valvesprings could take 11000rpm on my workshop's trackcar easily. The head was also ported and i was running a ITR throttle body and intake manifold. I took all of these all and sold them recently as i was selling my car off.

Big mistake however and now i want to do up the motor again. Jun II seems too mild for me and i am contemplating Toda Vtec Killer cams ...

Any comments?

 

Do you mean i shld use a Jun header with the Jun Stage II cams? I am currently running a Mugen 4-1 replica header. I think it shld suffice for my future needs. Can i make do with a DC2 4-1 header instead cos my header is now in a bad state. My country has freaking big speed humps and the 1st & 4th primaries are badly dented. I am on a budget ...

 

Hi. My pistons were not bought off the shelf but custom made as no one were making them 2 yrs ago. Costs me SG$2000 for the stuff alone. I was told the stuff were made in US.

 

Oic. I will keep your advise in mind when i am building it up again. Thanks alot of the help!

 

I was using a ITR intake manifold/throttle body with a 4-1 Mugen replica header. I took out the ITR intake and sold them because i was going to sell off my car. However, due to unforseen circumstances, i think i will be stranded with it so planning on doing it up again. I also plan to do a chassis swap with a JDM EG6 SiR chassis in the near future.

 

Thanks for the advise. I don't think i will overdo on the compression though since i drive the car on a daily basis and we don't have 100 octane here in Singapore. I get pinging even with my stock head but forged pistons.

 

Thanks. I am looking at the same thing too.