How do I know if my car is capable of having a turbo installed?
My f22b1 has just reached the 150,000 mile mark as far as mileage. My question to you guys is how do I know its safe to get a turbo setup with the amount of high miles I already have. Other than the obvious of checking the compression what else should be checked to know if its even turbo capable. Also one more quick question which of the two would you chose h22 or turbo? Dont tell me to search I just want some opinions. Thank you.......
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i wud choose turbo, for the amount of money n work it wud take to drop a H22 in, it just seems alot more worthwhile to turbo the F22, and according to HT members, the F22 can handle quite sum boost on stock internals(about 8-10 psi i think)
compression test, im at 130k im gonna have t o do one b4 i start buying tubro parts, and i hope there still good so i dont gotta replace anything
I would choose turbo as I have heard several reports of people going from Turbo'ed F22B's to H22's and say they are dissapointed.
if u want your accord to be your car for the next couple years, then buy a swap and then boost it later, better results and getting the swap is more reliable in the long run
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i personally own an h22 accord, and i'd get the turbo setup for the f22...you will make about 30-40 more hp and 50-70 ft/lbs of tourque over the h22, all for around the same price...and tourque is a good thing on a 4 cylinder motor...h22's make all their power up high...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick H »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i personally own an h22 accord, and i'd get the turbo setup for the f22...you will make about 30-40 more hp and 50-70 ft/lbs of tourque over the h22, all for around the same price...and tourque is a good thing on a 4 cylinder motor...h22's make all their power up high...</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly
exactly
Alright now to ask my main question which is what this thread is all about I how do I know my car can handle a turbo with high mileage other than doing a compression check?
There is not much else that you would have to check, but there are things to think about replacing. Clutch and flywheel if needed, axles if they are worn or clicking. Also if you have an exhaust that is designed for a na motor then it will most likely not be optimal for a turbo setup.
Well I just installed a Magnaflow cat-back exhaust with 2.5" piping, .25" larger than stock. Doesnt turbo's need more like 3" diameter piping?
Since I talking about a turbo If I were to buy one wouldnt I have to buy new customizable gearing for my car since it would top out under 120 mph otherwise? Just curious what else that would have to be done to make this a sucessful setup....
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:06 PM 3/23/2005
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:21 PM 3/23/2005
Since I talking about a turbo If I were to buy one wouldnt I have to buy new customizable gearing for my car since it would top out under 120 mph otherwise? Just curious what else that would have to be done to make this a sucessful setup....
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:06 PM 3/23/2005
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:21 PM 3/23/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaracin24 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I just installed a Magnaflow cat-back exhaust with 2.5" piping, .25" larger than stock. Doesnt turbo's need more like 3" diameter piping?
Since I talking about a turbo If I were to buy one wouldnt I have to buy new customizable gearing for my car since it would top out under 120 mph otherwise? Just curious what else that would have to be done to make this a sucessful setup....
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2.5" should be fine and on the gearing stop thinking like you are in GT4. You will not need to change your gearing cause the ones you have will be fine. What you might think about doing is swapping in an H23 transmission. The gears are a lot shorter and it is a pretty good change except for the fact that going on the interstate you will be really high in the rpm's the whole time.
Since I talking about a turbo If I were to buy one wouldnt I have to buy new customizable gearing for my car since it would top out under 120 mph otherwise? Just curious what else that would have to be done to make this a sucessful setup....
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2.5" should be fine and on the gearing stop thinking like you are in GT4. You will not need to change your gearing cause the ones you have will be fine. What you might think about doing is swapping in an H23 transmission. The gears are a lot shorter and it is a pretty good change except for the fact that going on the interstate you will be really high in the rpm's the whole time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -RedneckDave- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The gears are a lot shorter and it is a pretty good change except for the fact that going on the interstate you will be really high in the rpm's the whole time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats the problem is it really good for your engine to be constantly running your engine at 3500rpms because thats what I normally run at on the highway. If anything I just want a higher final gear ratio......
Thats the problem is it really good for your engine to be constantly running your engine at 3500rpms because thats what I normally run at on the highway. If anything I just want a higher final gear ratio......
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I would do a compression check on that motor
if it looks good go ahead and boost. f22 internals are stronger and more reliable w/ boost. (guessing that you are leaving stock internals). either way if you boost f22 or do a motor swap and boost later you must get a good tune, not street tune(safc, etc.) but engine management(hondata, eam ems, uber, power fc, etc.)
if it looks good go ahead and boost. f22 internals are stronger and more reliable w/ boost. (guessing that you are leaving stock internals). either way if you boost f22 or do a motor swap and boost later you must get a good tune, not street tune(safc, etc.) but engine management(hondata, eam ems, uber, power fc, etc.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaracin24 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats the problem is it really good for your engine to be constantly running your engine at 3500rpms because thats what I normally run at on the highway. If anything I just want a higher final gear ratio......</TD></TR></TABLE>
h23 tranny, not h22, the gears a shorter . . . but not that short, think of it as a happy medium between the h22 and f22 trannys
h23 tranny, not h22, the gears a shorter . . . but not that short, think of it as a happy medium between the h22 and f22 trannys
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaracin24 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I just installed a Magnaflow cat-back exhaust with 2.5" piping, .25" larger than stock. Doesnt turbo's need more like 3" diameter piping?
Since I talking about a turbo If I were to buy one wouldnt I have to buy new customizable gearing for my car since it would top out under 120 mph otherwise? Just curious what else that would have to be done to make this a sucessful setup....
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:06 PM 3/23/2005
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:21 PM 3/23/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
the accords top out at 115 because of the speed governo, if u get it disabled im pretty sure u can hit 130+with the turbo setup no problem
Since I talking about a turbo If I were to buy one wouldnt I have to buy new customizable gearing for my car since it would top out under 120 mph otherwise? Just curious what else that would have to be done to make this a sucessful setup....
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:06 PM 3/23/2005
Modified by hondaracin24 at 8:21 PM 3/23/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
the accords top out at 115 because of the speed governo, if u get it disabled im pretty sure u can hit 130+with the turbo setup no problem
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