B16a Engine problems-Help plz
Okay guys, over the last few weeks I have been noticing some problems with my CRX...
1. It doesn't seem like it has the power it should. It seems like something is holding it back, especially in 3rd & 4th between 3-5k
2. It almost sounds like it's backfiring a little bit. I think the gapping in my spark plugs might be a little off. I am noticing a small hesitation also.
3. When cruising and go to WOT, it jerks a little and hesitates then takes off...any help?
4. I just installed my new header and test pipe. I put the o2's back in the bungs. Now when I like flip it in 4th (this is where I have noticed it mostly), and go to WOT...the check engine light will flip on. I checked the ECU and dont see it flashing at all...so I am not sure what's going on. My A/F guage wont read at all now. If I let off the gas for a few seconds, then floor it I can see the very first light on the lean side go on, then right back off.
Could I have put my o2 sensors in opposite and that be causing the problem, or does it matter? If it doesn't matter, anyone have any suggestions for this? Also, what kind of spark plugs would you guys recommend? I have been told by a couple friends to get just plain copper or iridium sparks, but what's the best for my b16a? Any suggestions for the track would be helpful also....as you can see from my sig...15.464 with what I have is pretty crappy. I am launching at 2800 right now, which I think is part of the problem but I am running on 13" steelies and crappy tires...so that might be my problem also.
As always guys, comments/suggestions/flames are always appreciated.
Jonathan
1. It doesn't seem like it has the power it should. It seems like something is holding it back, especially in 3rd & 4th between 3-5k
2. It almost sounds like it's backfiring a little bit. I think the gapping in my spark plugs might be a little off. I am noticing a small hesitation also.
3. When cruising and go to WOT, it jerks a little and hesitates then takes off...any help?
4. I just installed my new header and test pipe. I put the o2's back in the bungs. Now when I like flip it in 4th (this is where I have noticed it mostly), and go to WOT...the check engine light will flip on. I checked the ECU and dont see it flashing at all...so I am not sure what's going on. My A/F guage wont read at all now. If I let off the gas for a few seconds, then floor it I can see the very first light on the lean side go on, then right back off.
Could I have put my o2 sensors in opposite and that be causing the problem, or does it matter? If it doesn't matter, anyone have any suggestions for this? Also, what kind of spark plugs would you guys recommend? I have been told by a couple friends to get just plain copper or iridium sparks, but what's the best for my b16a? Any suggestions for the track would be helpful also....as you can see from my sig...15.464 with what I have is pretty crappy. I am launching at 2800 right now, which I think is part of the problem but I am running on 13" steelies and crappy tires...so that might be my problem also.
As always guys, comments/suggestions/flames are always appreciated.
Jonathan
Whelp, the sensors are on the test pipe I have on there now (They're down toward the bottom part of the header, and I just put them in the test pipe when I got the DC Sports header), so I'll roll it up on my ramps tomorrow and switch them out really quick. Do you think this might cause the backfires also?
My catalytic converter was robbing me of a good 30+ hp. I couldn't outrun my friend's Cavalier Z24. I gutted it and it started running properly.
What Gen B16, I'm going to assume first. If so, having them under the car like that is too far away from where the ECU is expecting them to be, they aren't getting the reading down there that they would if they were in the stock location, also they aren't getting nearly as hot down there. I would check out your wiring though if your gauge isn't even really working.
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On the first gen b16a there are two as everyone has said and they have specific readings they take for the #1 and 3 cylinder ( the higher up one on the stock b16a header ) and the lower one is for cylinders #2 and 4. So if the are reversed they will not run right, I had this very same issue for a while till one of the moderators in this forum told me to switch it......car is much much better now. Getting the O2 sensor out of the header will be fun, i tried and that was very hard, if you switch just the wires you will save yourself alot of time and alot of crrraaaaannnnkkkkkk slip bang ooowwwwwwwwwww that hurt. Also may want to check your timing
Having the O2 sensors on a 1st gen B16a swap down near the test pipe....is a bad idea. Those O2 sensors are not heated; thus the 1 wire. The 4 wire O2 sensor is heated and compensates for the distance. You need to put them back up near the motor. They are there for a reason.
They were down there on the stock header when I got the car. I didn't think something was right, but I didn't question it b/c it ran fine. On the stock header, and with the DC Sports one that's on there now, all of the holes are down at the end of the header right in front of the test pipe. I didn't tighten them super tight in case I might have to switch them, so it's not a problem of getting them and switching them...but should I get a hole put in the top so I can stick one of the o2's up there? BTW, each o2 only has 1 wire. One of them has a black wire and one of them has a yellow one...anyone know which is supposed to be in front?
JB
JB
you should make sure your 02 sensors are hooked up, and check you knock sensor too, maybe it could be you spark plug wires or distributor...
Whelp, I'm pretty sure they are hooked up, but I think they might be backwards. I might be thinking of it wrong though. I'm thinking of it like this:
Sensor #1 detects 1 element (I'll say lean)
Sensor #2 detects 1 element (I'll say rich)
Sensor #1 is supposed to be up in front, and gives a signal b4 sensor #2...but instead now...Sensor #2 is up front, and giving the signal first and the A/F guage is confused. It will read...but just barely gets anything in the lean side...so I'm hoping that reversing them will fix it.
Tell me more about the knock sensor plz...
I just changed and put in new wires, and how would I check the dis?
JB
Sensor #1 detects 1 element (I'll say lean)
Sensor #2 detects 1 element (I'll say rich)
Sensor #1 is supposed to be up in front, and gives a signal b4 sensor #2...but instead now...Sensor #2 is up front, and giving the signal first and the A/F guage is confused. It will read...but just barely gets anything in the lean side...so I'm hoping that reversing them will fix it.
Tell me more about the knock sensor plz...
I just changed and put in new wires, and how would I check the dis?
JB
It seems to idle pretty steady most of the time. I have noticed though since I put on the header (same time I reversed o2's), that it will every now and then pulsate just the slightest. Just barely enough to notice. It will sometimes idle a little high, and sometimes a little low. I never noticed it b4 I did the o2 mixup, so I figured that's what it was. If my plug wires were on the dis wrong, wouldn't I be getting MAJOR backfires though as the wrong cylinders are being fired at the wrong time? I had to fix a problem with my dis rotor a couple weeks ago (the screw fell out, and had to put a new one in), but I checked and made sure I put everything back on right when I closed it all back up. I am heading out now to go over to my friends house and switch the o2's back, I'll keep you guys posted whether it fixed the problems or not. Thanks for the replies.
JB
JB
On the Stock B16A1's Both O2 sensors are up on top before the 4-2 section of the manifold. On the aftermarket they are downstream because that's what all of the later generations use, but if you're using a PW0 or PR3, you need to have both of those O2 sensors up in front of the -2 flange.
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