Was running 100%.

Then i installed my new clutch, got it back together and barley started, then it was alright.. But i had a code 6 (tore a wire) And the coolant wasnt bleed properly.

Next morning. It starts, idles normal for about 10 seconds then just dies, dosent sputter just bam stops running.

Would bubbles in the coolant and a unplugged coolant temp sensor cause this?

The only other possible expliantion is low fuel. My gauges shows 10% im parked on a slight hill, and the pump is at the front and all the fuel would be at the back of the tank.. correct?

So this might just be the cause...

Sorry for the dumb questions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was running 100%.

Then i installed my new clutch, got it back together and barley started, then it was alright.. But i had a code 6 (tore a wire) And the coolant wasnt bleed properly.

Next morning. It starts, idles normal for about 10 seconds then just dies, dosent sputter just bam stops running.

Would bubbles in the coolant and a unplugged coolant temp sensor cause this?

The only other possible expliantion is low fuel. My gauges shows 10% im parked on a slight hill, and the pump is at the front and all the fuel would be at the back of the tank.. correct?

So this might just be the cause...

orry for the dumb questions </TD></TR></TABLE>
let me guess, it was cold out? the coolant bubble prevents the coolant from flowing (kinda like air in the brakes) Sold IACV doenst get coolant to regulate your idle or the cold idle valve still works as if the car is cold after its been warm for 10 minutes. CAtch my drift?

Purge the air and see what happens

 

yes its cold and my car is cold.

Thanks ill give that a try right now!

Edit: Tried it no luck.. Even if i hold it at say 3000rpm once it starts, it runs fine for say 10sec then bam just shuts off. Not like a sputter stall just bam like i turned the key off.

What the best way to bleed the coolant? I tried squeezing the upper rad hose, air bubbles did come out, but im not certain all of them and i cant keep the car running to let it run with the cap off.


Modified by HamiltonRex at 11:12 AM 3/20/2005

 

the best way to get bubbles out is when the car is running and the thermo is open. meaning a few little air bubles, shouldnt stop u from running. and the fuel pump is in the back of the gas tank not in the front. so u should be suckin some fuel up. im thinkin.......................well u got a code 6 cause u tore a wire. if the wire is fixed just try this who knows. take ur negative and positive cable off ur battery, and touch them together. dont worry it wont spark CAUSE THERES NO POWER! that should reset the ecu. or u can take both cables off and remove the ecu. try that. cause u can run the car with a bad collant temp sensor ur guage just wont work. i did it!

u can also run the car with the wires crossed, i did it and the brass temp sensor blew up like a shot gun...that was a long time ago! if its starting, u have fuel pressure, so u have fuel, and u have spark. so ur ecu is seeing something and killing the motor. just try what i said

 

Thanks alot i got it fixed..

It was low on gas but what weird time, i dont know why.

Anyways, got the bubbles out! Thanks.. And got the code fixed.

Now its all mint