i know theres a thread on all motor internals, but i wanted to hear specifically from prelude/H22 guys. what internal setup are you using? anyone had experience with the mahle pistons on a N/A setup? if i can use them that would be cool so i dont have to resleeve my block, but ive heard shitty things about them. My goal is 210 whp all motor, idk if i i can get there but im gonna try. any first hand input on what you guys are using would be cool, thanks...

 

also, with that bieng my whp goal, what header would you suggest getting now? i know i dont want a shitty one that will be decent now but not able to hold up when i get higher HP, im new to the N/A stuff, and yea i searched but i couldnt find anything for this specific topic. I would only like to spend around 6-700 brand new, or maybe find a good prospeed or smsp used... what about the prospeed 4-1, i heard its like 550 new, any first hand experience with that? thanks i appreciate it...

 

Get type-s pistons, mill the head .020", get adj. cam gears and some stage 2 cams with a nice header, Rage/Prospeed/AN-R/RMF or SMSP with a nice exhaust should get you to 210 on a dynojet no problem with tuning.

That is what I did but I only had Type-S cams and had a POS 2.25 crushbent exhaust. I got over 200whp with pretty mild ignition timing.

Pirate

EDIT also when you get to about 200whp you either need a FPR or larger injectors (about 400cc/min)

 

cool man thanks for the info, i know for F/I neptune is the ****, is there a tuning system that people recommend most for n/a cars? and call me an idiot here, but the type s pisons your talking about are from the jdm type s lude? so your saying i wouldnt have to re-sleeve......? thanks pirate

 

Euro R intake manifold. Port and Polish.

 

im thinkin skunk2 all the way... skunk2 I/M, T/B spacer, adj. cam gears, and stage 2 cams. ive heard good and bad about the mani, mostly good though. i would think that with the mani id want a t/b spacer... what do you think?

 

I dont think you will need larger injectors or FPR unless you're going FI or running ITBs. Stock injectors are enough for N/A application, expecially if you are running standalone there's no point to upgrade them.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get type-s pistons, mill the head .020", get adj. cam gears and some stage 2 cams with a nice header, Rage/Prospeed/AN-R/RMF or SMSP with a nice exhaust should get you to 210 on a dynojet no problem with tuning.

That is what I did but I only had Type-S cams and had a POS 2.25 crushbent exhaust. I got over 200whp with pretty mild ignition timing.

Pirate

EDIT also when you get to about 200whp you either need a FPR or larger injectors (about 400cc/min)</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Sure thing, it is just advice. I hope you don't blow your engine when you hit 100% duty cycle on your 345cc/m OBD1 injectors on a stock fpr, or worse yet your 290cc/m OBD2 injectors.

At sea level my RC 370's were at about 85% duty cycle on stock H22 fpr. You are never supposed to go past 80%. If you are going to blow the money to dyno tune it is best to have a FPR. I would rather have one and not need it than need one and not have it. High RPM lean detonation = destroyed motor.

Pirate

 

How do you determine the amount of duty cycle on your injectors?

This bring to my attention because my dyno is at sea level. Im running stock 290cc injectors, my settings on VAFC are -15% pass 6K to bring the A/F to 13.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sure thing, it is just advice. I hope you don't blow your engine when you hit 100% duty cycle on your 345cc/m OBD1 injectors on a stock fpr, or worse yet your 290cc/m OBD2 injectors.

At sea level my RC 370's were at about 85% duty cycle on stock H22 fpr. You are never supposed to go past 80%. If you are going to blow the money to dyno tune it is best to have a FPR. I would rather have one and not need it than need one and not have it. High RPM lean detonation = destroyed motor.

Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

what do you mean by duty cycle...

 

Hey.. I am basically going through all of the same process you are with building an N/A motor. I am alittle further ahead though because the motor is completely finished. I dont know how much you are looking to drop on building a N/A motor but I will tell you it adds up quick.

Check out the link below for what I've done to my H22a1.

 

wow nice build you got goin there, i dont think im going quite to the extent your going to. i just want to build myself a low 14 second high 13 second all motor lude until i get my money for a turbo build....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VSBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you determine the amount of duty cycle on your injectors?

This bring to my attention because my dyno is at sea level. Im running stock 290cc injectors, my settings on VAFC are -15% pass 6K to bring the A/F to 13.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

This may steer you in the right direction

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lude-acris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean by duty cycle... </TD></TR></TABLE>

duty cycle is how much the injectors are flowing or how hard they are working, so obviously at 100% duty cycle they are pushing as much fuel as they can which is good. there was a write-up awhile back that went into great detail about it though.

EDIT: im an idiot, check the link in the post above

 

Yea, the setup has ended up becoming more extensive and expensive than expected but sometimes that happens when u get into a build. I'm getting my prelude back in the morning and can't wait to get back in the driver seat. It's been over 2 months since i've seen it. The engine had MAJOR heart surgery as you can tell if you look at the link below.

After I get it all broken in an am reassured it all went well I will be looking to see what it can do.

I have some other mods i need to perform before that happens so i can have R&D Dyno tune the engine.

And eventually, i may even get around to fixing and painting the damn car. For now, it'll have to be an ugly yet fast prelude. (atleast faster then it was before)