this **** is boggling the brain. ok so i plan on turboing my rex (mini me, y8 head) and i have plans on chipping my ecu. so im going to just tell the dodo my setupd and then sodler the chip, blah blah. but then what is a wideband? do i need it? also how does that differ from a AFC or such? and so i take it an aif/fuel gauge isnt very accurate? ergh so confusing. someone school me.

 

A wideband comes with its own o2 sensor that you put in the exhaust..It reads your air fuel ratio accurately..

Those a/f gauges arent accurate at all without a wideband..They're more a light show then anything

 

so once u know ur a/r ration..what do u do to adjusst it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menappi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so once u know ur a/r ration..what do u do to adjusst it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check out this thread I posted in on the FI forum. Scroll down to my post where I have a bunch of pics up.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=939555

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menappi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but then what is a wideband? do i need it? also how does that differ from a AFC or such? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Some of the terms can be confusing at first.

A wideband is used to measure the A/F ratios or AFR's. Your stock Honda uses a narrowband O2 sensor, whcih I believe just reads the AFR as either rich or lean. A wideband has a wider range of sensitivity. IIRC the way an O2 sensor works is it measures the oxygen content in your exhaust and converts it into volts.

Widebands are typically used with datalogging software. Datalogging software "records" the conditions of your engine. It's like an instant replay of the engine conditions. RPMs, AFR's, engine temps, intake temps are a few of the things that are measured by datalogging software. When you are looking through a datalogging replay you are looking at your AFR's and matching it up with your RPM and load (vacuum/boost), You then use something like the "Golden Sheet" I talked about in that other thread to tell you if your AFR is too high or too low.

If you do plan on turboing your car do not go with an AFC hack. Chipping your ECU and running Turboedit (OBD 0), Uberdata (OBD 1), or Crome (OBD 1) is a lot better. These systems are kinda like standalone systems, except it's based on the Honda ECU code. You have a lot more flexibility with any of the free programs. You can adjust timing, fuel, VTEC x-over, injectors sizing and numerous other things. With an AFC hack you only have limited fuel adjustability and you cannot pull back timing enough when under boost. A general rule of thumb when you boost your motor, is for every pound of boost you want to pull back timing about 0.75-1 degree. With a standalone or those three free programs I mentioned you can do that, with the AFC hack you cant.