How is the Mugen Rear Lower Arm Bushing Install?
In the effort to keep the R fresh I'm thinking of picking up a set of the Mugen rear lower arm bushings. Is the install something I can do my self or do I need special tools/shop to press these in?
Rear Lower Arm Bushing = Rear Trailing Arm Bushing?
Chris - who says you also need a press, but wanted to clarify which b00shanj j00 is talkin aboat f0 sh0.
Chris - who says you also need a press, but wanted to clarify which b00shanj j00 is talkin aboat f0 sh0.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rear Lower Arm Bushing = Rear Trailing Arm Bushing?
Chris - who says you also need a press, but wanted to clarify which b00shanj j00 is talkin aboat f0 sh0.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mugen lists seperate bushing kits for the rear lower arm and the rear trailing arm bushing. I was thinking of doing the rear lower arm. Is there a good order I should follow (in terms of importance and results) in replacing suspension bushings if I am only replacing a few at a time?
Chris - who says you also need a press, but wanted to clarify which b00shanj j00 is talkin aboat f0 sh0.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mugen lists seperate bushing kits for the rear lower arm and the rear trailing arm bushing. I was thinking of doing the rear lower arm. Is there a good order I should follow (in terms of importance and results) in replacing suspension bushings if I am only replacing a few at a time?
Personally I'd say the rear trailing arm before the rear control arm.
(Many threads in the RR/Autox forum have discussed the goodness of the RTA bushings.)
(Many threads in the RR/Autox forum have discussed the goodness of the RTA bushings.)
When I asked him a while back, Clayton (Ausmith) recommended doing the rear trailing arm bushings and front compliance set.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally I'd say the rear trailing arm before the rear control arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Out of pure curiosity why YOU Chris N would choose one over the other?
To the original thread starter, I feel it would be benificial to do your bushings is segments if that is all you can afford at a time. Like in the picture anything that says 'arm' 'stabilizer' I would do all of these at the same time. If I had to break it up into segments I would group the:
1) arm & stabilizer bushings together $823.00 (less front stabilizer - which King says to 'call' on)
2) engine & tranny bushings together $461.00
3) suspension $304.00
4) steering $87.00
This is how I view it, but just an opinion
when you get this stuff in, keep us updated on the differences you feel.
Out of pure curiosity why YOU Chris N would choose one over the other?
To the original thread starter, I feel it would be benificial to do your bushings is segments if that is all you can afford at a time. Like in the picture anything that says 'arm' 'stabilizer' I would do all of these at the same time. If I had to break it up into segments I would group the:
1) arm & stabilizer bushings together $823.00 (less front stabilizer - which King says to 'call' on)
2) engine & tranny bushings together $461.00
3) suspension $304.00
4) steering $87.00
This is how I view it, but just an opinion

when you get this stuff in, keep us updated on the differences you feel.
I'm in the process of installing Prothane rear LCA bushings right now. I would recommend against a press, at least for the removal of the old bushings, mine were so tight the arm just collapses before the sleeve will come loose. I just trashed one of my arms doing it this way...
...so instead burn out the rubber and hacksaw the sleeve then tap it out. You can grab the centers in a vice and put some heat on it while twisting, it works pretty well. The new one can be pressed in or tapped in with a hammer some say but I haven't gotten that far yet.
...so instead burn out the rubber and hacksaw the sleeve then tap it out. You can grab the centers in a vice and put some heat on it while twisting, it works pretty well. The new one can be pressed in or tapped in with a hammer some say but I haven't gotten that far yet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
4) steering $87.00
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alot of people seem to overlook those bushings, that is actually one of the sets of Mugen Bushings that I have on my car and it did make a noticeable feel in steering input.
4) steering $87.00
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Alot of people seem to overlook those bushings, that is actually one of the sets of Mugen Bushings that I have on my car and it did make a noticeable feel in steering input.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has anyone ever gone through and replaced all or most of the bushings? Im guessing this would make the car feel like new again with no slop. </TD></TR></TABLE>
A few years back a good friend of mine did it to his turbo civic. He didn't use the Mugen stuff in question, but used all the prothane bushings. There was a very big difference from what I can remember. The car was predictable, felt agile.
A few years back a good friend of mine did it to his turbo civic. He didn't use the Mugen stuff in question, but used all the prothane bushings. There was a very big difference from what I can remember. The car was predictable, felt agile.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im guessing this would make the car feel like new again with no slop. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Better than New
I have a good amount of the bushings in on my 98 R, don't ask which ones because I don't remember Iinstalled them over 5 years ago.
Better than New
I have a good amount of the bushings in on my 98 R, don't ask which ones because I don't remember Iinstalled them over 5 years ago.
Just replace them all at once....Thats is what I did
I second what Chris said, start with the rear trailing arm bushings and front compliance set. My rear trailing arm bushing were not looking the greatest when I replaced them...
Yea you will need a press.. I took everything to a collison near by and had them do it.
Just wanted to add...The car is very solid..better then new
I second what Chris said, start with the rear trailing arm bushings and front compliance set. My rear trailing arm bushing were not looking the greatest when I replaced them...
Yea you will need a press.. I took everything to a collison near by and had them do it.
Just wanted to add...The car is very solid..better then new
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Out of pure curiosity why YOU Chris N would choose one over the other?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because that one bushing will have a bigger effect on how the car handles than any of the others. The TA bushing plays a large role in controlling the toe change under suspension load (bump steer) so installing a stiffer one will help minimize this.
Out of pure curiosity why YOU Chris N would choose one over the other?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because that one bushing will have a bigger effect on how the car handles than any of the others. The TA bushing plays a large role in controlling the toe change under suspension load (bump steer) so installing a stiffer one will help minimize this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Because that one bushing will have a bigger effect on how the car handles than any of the others. The TA bushing plays a large role in controlling the toe change under suspension load (bump steer) so installing a stiffer one will help minimize this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting. I understand.
Because that one bushing will have a bigger effect on how the car handles than any of the others. The TA bushing plays a large role in controlling the toe change under suspension load (bump steer) so installing a stiffer one will help minimize this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting. I understand.
ive done the rear trailing arm on my civic and it requires a press to do it. make sure you press it in the right direction as it is a tappered fit. i dont remember which direction though. i couldnt tell you anything about a difference as i did it before installing them as i did the rear disc conversion on my car.
misha
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