Any reason why my car idles up and down even after it warms up??
On a h22a in my civic It goes up and down between 300 rpm's and 800. Thought it was while warming up but its all the time. And runs real shifty in the low range. Im not throwing any codes either.
Did you check all your vacum lines and make sure everything is plugged that should be? are you running a OEM T-Body?
could be alot of things...from vacum to radiator fluid. You just have to have the patient and try to deal with it...my setup has been through it all until i replaced this feature 13 below (not sure the name)
The car ran for a few weeks with no issues since, but now once in a while i get the irregular idle all over again...i just don't have the time to take that off to see if the valve is broken as before (it was a used one from a civic i used)
things to check
-iacv
-iat
-vac lines
-radiator fluid (flush for air)
good luck, and let us know what your issue was...for my refrence of course
The car ran for a few weeks with no issues since, but now once in a while i get the irregular idle all over again...i just don't have the time to take that off to see if the valve is broken as before (it was a used one from a civic i used)
things to check
-iacv
-iat
-vac lines
-radiator fluid (flush for air)
good luck, and let us know what your issue was...for my refrence of course
If your timing in mechanically off, it can cause that too. The engine will want to idle low, and the ecu keeps trying to fix it (revving up and down). I had that problem right after my swap, intake cam was off a tooth. I capped off all unnecessary vacuum lines, and it now idles perfectly.
yeah, theres 2 places there at the buttom of the tb for hoses. I have both plugged. The one to the side usually goes to the thermostat area but on my jdm motor theres a hose that goes from the thermo to the block right next to the thermo.
they are both capped on mine too, so that's probably not the problem. btw my engine is jdm too. I'll send you and engine bay shot when I get home (at work now) if you want. Might help with vacuum lines.
Trending Topics
What year car?
My car had a similar problem when I was running an OBD1 ecu conversion. I unplugged the EVAP purge selonoid valve and that fixed the problem.
Guess the OBD1 ECU either couldn't control it right, or didn't control it at all.
My car had a similar problem when I was running an OBD1 ecu conversion. I unplugged the EVAP purge selonoid valve and that fixed the problem.
Guess the OBD1 ECU either couldn't control it right, or didn't control it at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">didn't control it at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like OBD1, it's simple.
I like OBD1, it's simple.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93delslo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I like OBD1, it's simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me too.
One nice thing about OBD2 is being able to diagnose a misfire down to the particular cylinder.
I like OBD1, it's simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>Me too.
One nice thing about OBD2 is being able to diagnose a misfire down to the particular cylinder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Me too.
One nice thing about OBD2 is being able to diagnose a misfire down to the particular cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
still happened to me and i had an obd1 setup!
Me too.
One nice thing about OBD2 is being able to diagnose a misfire down to the particular cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
still happened to me and i had an obd1 setup!
Yeah, I unplugged all the evap and egr stuff. Seems like it drops down to like 300 rpm's and then pics up to 1000 or so. Back and forth.
Dont think its a vacuum problem, I think it could be a sensor but then again Im not getting any cel codes from my chipped p28. This sucks!
Part # 13 (FITV) will have a white plug inside of it when you remove the two phillips head screws and take off the gold cover. Screw the white plug all the way back in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwnthehatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Part # 13 (FITV) will have a white plug inside of it when you remove the two phillips head screws and take off the gold cover. Screw the white plug all the way back in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Would this still work if you have the FITV bypassed(capped off).
Would this still work if you have the FITV bypassed(capped off).
Any other suggestions? I put the 2 gears at TDC and they were perfect. Attached all coolant hoses to the IAC and TB and cleaned IAC but still have the surge in the rpm's and loss of power when gassing it.
the same thing was happening to me with my prelude and it ended up being the cold idle, take of the throttle body, and it is in there,, h22's are famous for them unscrewing all the way so it keeps sucking the air in, screw it back in and u should be good to go
it is gold in colour
it is gold in colour
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
honcrf150
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
13
May 29, 2012 10:28 AM
variable
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
1
Aug 18, 2006 05:03 PM




