My dad just got done with mocking up the manifold I'll be running next season. We had this totally original idea to run a top mount b-series manifold this season. In reality I printed out every single picture I could find from places including full-race, one-fab, and a few other DIYers from here. After looking at the pictures this is what he came up with. I love it and it's a HUGE step up from the different log manifolds he has made in the past. I even got him in the equal length mindset as he was making it and he was able to measure each runner and get it within 1/4" of each other. Anyways here's the pics:




















I'm sure you can guess what we'll be fab'ing up next:

 

that mani is gorgeous. im very jealous. great fab. work. cant wait to see that 4" dp. oh and are you running the stock xmember? if so, how much hacking are you gonna do?

 

Looks great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5litereater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that mani is gorgeous. im very jealous. great fab. work. cant wait to see that 4" dp. oh and are you running the stock xmember? if so, how much hacking are you gonna do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, I'm going to be running a modified LCON traction bar.

 

Are you going to stick weld it or something? That paint may cause problems with mig, and definitely will if you tig it.

 

The manifolds we do are MIG welded and the piping we get usually comes in those two colors, it's never caused a problem before.

That was also his first collector too, in all I think it was around $70 in pipe and $30 in flanges.

 

It may not be a problem, but it would weld better if you took the paint off. People like stuff that looks good and it would look better if you took the paint off prior to welding.

The fab work looks good though...I not trying to just be all negative.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It may not be a problem, but it would weld better if you took the paint off. People like stuff that looks good and it would look better if you took the paint off prior to welding.

The fab work looks good though...I not trying to just be all negative.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yea i say u should sand , bead blast it so u dont have to un tack everything .. then just clean with a s.s brush and acetone .. then paint or coat it so it dont rust ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo gli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


yea i say u should sand , bead blast it so u dont have to un tack everything .. then just clean with a s.s brush and acetone .. then paint or coat it so it dont rust .. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why go through all of that work? it seems like he is trying for more functionality than apperance.. Not trying to argue with you though, so don't get the wrong idea..

Manifold is sick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why go through all of that work? it seems like he is trying for more functionality than apperance.. Not trying to argue with you though, so don't get the wrong idea..

Manifold is sick </TD></TR></TABLE>
This may sound worse than I intend it, but if you're out for the best functionality, you'd want full penetration welds (by using tig). Without full penetration, it's just a matter of how long till it cracks. It may be a month, a year, or you may get lucky and not have problems as long as you own it....but forever is a word I'd not want to use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This may sound worse than I intend it, but if you're out for the best functionality, you'd want full penetration welds (by using tig). Without full penetration, it's just a matter of how long till it cracks. It may be a month, a year, or you may get lucky and not have problems as long as you own it....but forever is a word I'd not want to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

have no idea how that could have sounded bad.. That makes better sense than just simply saying "it will look better" thanks for giving a good reason why doing that work could be useful

 

How did you do this, did you make that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How did you do this, did you make that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think it is just the reducer sitting on top of the DP flange.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it is just the reducer sitting on top of the DP flange. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know its just sitting on top of the DP, but where did he get it?

 

We make those bad boys, maybe not that one but we can do it for you


anyways looks nice only thing i didn't like is the bend from cylinder 3 (one that comes around in front) looks like "he cheated the bend a bit"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We make those bad boys, maybe not that one but we can do it for you


anyways looks nice only thing i didn't like is the bend from cylinder 3 (one that comes around in front) looks like "he cheated the bend a bit"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for letting me know, how about 4 inch flex pipe?

 

mmuuuhhhhaaaaa

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy

</TD></TR></TABLE>
What does this post contribute to the thread, none.

Manifold looks good. Keep us updated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy

</TD></TR></TABLE>Are you serious thanx for letting us know that but what was your point??? All I know is he just got a pretty nice functional top mount for $100 bucks I think that top mount looks nice I just dont like runner #3 It looks like it comes out to far and to low still room for improvement but nice

 

Looks good, what kind of steel is that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keyhole &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good, what kind of steel is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 90's look like regular carbon steel (depending on the mill they come green coated or black).

 

Are those all schedule 10 bends? I would sure like to know how you got all of those bends for $70.... It cost me $50 just for a pair of els and a pair of tees in Sch40 from McMaster....

 

Those are all schedule 40, a lot of the 45s we used were just long bend 90s chopped in half.

 

Check your pm's.

 

That green **** that mcmaster puts on the mild steel bends is really hard to remove. It's on the inside and outside. The only thing that work well for me is heated Jasco.

BTW-torching the stuff off with an oxy torch works well, too, but it's kinda stinky/messy.


Sonny