I need cam opinions for a setup like this. I was told Skunk2 S2's without putting the head on a flow bench. This would be the setup which isn't even done yet but its all put together but I'm trying to sell my ITR cams and upgrade so I can make some power and have my car not be slow.

What I have NOW:

B20B4 Block Zyglowed, Bored & Honed to 84.5mm with Torque Plate, Align Honed, Hot Tanked, Surfaced & Decked
Crank Magnafluxed, Balanced, Micropolished
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
Eagle Rods 4340
JE Forged Pistons 11:0:1 Compression Ratio
ITR Water pump
ITR Oil pump
ITR Timing belt and new Belt Tensioner
Prodrive Oil Pump Gear
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Piece
Endyn Crankcase Breather Kit
Cometic Head Gasket
2000 JDM ITR Cylinder Head Cams and Valvetrain
ARP Exhaust Studs
HP Racing 4-2-1 Stainless Header
AEBS Intake Manifold
STR 70mm Throttle Body
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
AEM SRI Intake
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
AI4-HDR6 ACT 6 Puck Clutch
1996 ITR Transmission with LSD

What I have left to buy :

Stage 2 Axles
Hasport Engine Mounts
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
AEM Fuel Filter
AEM FPR
Hondata S200
Cams by __________
Valvesprings by ___________
Retainers by ___________
Cam Gears by ___________

So now I need help on picking a cam. I've got about $1000 to work with including the cost of the valvesprings/retainers/and cam gears. I'm looking for streetability and the BEST power possible. BTW Opinions on the setup?

 

bump bump bump. Anyone know how much CFM a 2000 ITR head flows from testing it on a flow bench because they should all be reasonably close to eachother...No one has replied yet wtf.

 

a SEARCH in the archives for "cfm itr" came up with this.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=735332

 

sweet setup man you should make well over 200whp if you choose the right cams

 

what ZYGLOW

 

Zyglow is a treatment similar to magnaflux but it is used to find hairline and very very small cracks in aluminum components. Any more opinions?

 

Bump:

Opinions on these cams? http://www.cranecams.com/?show...-0014 some of the fastest all motor cars out there are running Crane cams and face it when you go with an american based company that has made cams for years and made cars go fast for years they bring experience into the game

 

bump...where the hell are the smart people with good opinions like Rocket, Omni etc...WTF?

 

BUMP BUMP F***ING BUMP. Of course no one really wants to input on my threads ever.

 

what are your goals?
drag or race

for example:
JUN 3's high reving power (my opinion)
toda C heavy **** downlow to

what are goals and car going in, think BIG, see the package. cams dictate a lot of how the engine will behave, everyone is different and like's something different

 

the skunk2 pro1's seem very promising

 

buddy club 4's also seem to have good midrange and peak...

 

Its all going in my 1993 Honda Civic Si which has the following mods:

JDM Foglights
Buddy Club Pro Spec Exhaust
Buddy Club P1 Racing+2 15x6.5" Wheels in Hyper Gold
Carbon Fiber Duckbill Spoiler
Apex-I VAFC
Omnipower Upper A-Arms
Omnipower Coilovers "Sport Kit"

The motor is done and together BTW I got the mounts too now I need fuel system, engine management and axles, but I'd like to ditch that ITR stuff for something better but this car must be a reliable street car because its my only means of transportation for awhile. I'm looking for a really bad *** street car that can hold its own at the track low 13's to high 12's on slicks with weight reduction and good driving. My original goal with the all motor setup was reliability, throttle response and DEFINATELY 200+WHP like 220 would be nice.

 

Bump bump...no one answering my thread again.

 

Easy there, sometimes things in life just take patience.

Even though you didnt list it, im going to assume youre going with the b20/ls crank and its 89mm stroke. Its a good thing you have some decent internals, with those its safe to 'play' with your rev limiter a little more. What octane do you get in your neck of the woods?

Your compression would be great for what we get out here in cali, 91 octane. With a bigger cam, you can take full advantage of timing tricks because the bigger lobe is bleeding off some of that compression. However, there is usually a trade off in low end power. Notice i did say usually.

You did a great job in listing your combo, but you listed a little much and its a little daunting to read. Eliminate all the unecessary stuff that doesnt have to do with your camshaft selection.

My honest opinion: Sell the 70mm throttle body and get something in the 62-64mm range. The 70mm will bang a big peak hp number, but will kill your accelleration. Get cams that optimize power in the 4500-8700rpm range. Toda spec b's or buddy club spec 3's are good for this.

Your right about crower, they have been in the game a long time, and that does help, but there are plenty of other choices out there. Personally with all the other options available right now, i wouldnt even consider the skunk2 stage 2's.

Just my .02.

 

Eh my buddy Luke told me to get the 70mm TB and he knows what he's talking about considering my buddy, not luke but his friend ran 12.8@108mph on tuesday night all motor LS/VTEC, and their all motor race car will be much much faster than their racecar from last season. But I get 94 Octane here, the reason for going with the 11:0:1 c/r is this must be a reliable street car in all conditions but still be fast. 11:0:1 is easier to tune than say a 12:5:1 and since this is my first serious build I'm taking it easy to learn the whole tuning thing and it should still make decent power. Skunk2 Stage2's however are much bigger than Buddy Club Spec 3's and are even .3mm more lift than Jun 3's. I don't want to pay alot of money for Toda B's considering I heard they aren't that great. I took into consideration the Buddy Club Spec 3's, but this car and project has been down and out for a very very long time thanks to Rob Cardona who owes me money and the BC3's are on backorder so i've heard and I just think that there could be a better cam out there.

Edit: Yep the B20 89mm crank micropolished and magnafluxed.

 

What does Luke and his friend in the 12's recommend, seeing as they know about TB's they should know cams.

 

Flowing a ton of air (ie. a 70mm throttle body) wont always equal more power under the curve. I believe air speed entering the port is far more imoprtant (all other things being equal.) 11:1 compression is not that high, i believe the new k20a2's come with that compression and the k20a's with 11.5:1. My point is, if it was that easy to make an engine produce more power, honda wouldnt spend the millions in r&d that it took to make the k series what it is.

While youre at it, why not just bolt up 5" intake piping to a 5" throttle body?


Modified by LsVtec92Hatch at 6:53 PM 3/31/2005

 

Well actually no. They ran a 70mm TB on their old drag car last season, and the best way to find out which cam will work best is to pull the head off my motor, flowbench test it, port it flowbench test it again and find out where the gains were and the CFM flow of the head total to pick the best cam for the buck. But you guys aren't being that helpful, I did what I was told to do by guys who really know their stuff. I'll see if he'll post and explain it to you since I don't know why I was told to get a 70mm TB, they said it was just right and they have significant experience that I've seen.

 

So basically youre saying they ran a 70mm tb and had success with it, so it must do the same for you?


What was their engine setup like compared to yours?

 

Not important because you know everything dude obviously.

 

It seems as though you're the one who "knows everything." You asked for forum members' opinions and you got it. Don't jump all over the guy for trying to help you. Just take what you want from the post and junk the rest. Maybe that's why it took so long for you to get a response. People might not like your attitude. Think about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by serturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems as though you're the one who "knows everything." You asked for forum members' opinions and you got it. Don't jump all over the guy for trying to help you. Just take what you want from the post and junk the rest. Maybe that's why it took so long for you to get a response. People might not like your attitude. Think about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Believe me, i dont think i know everything. I just know a little bit about airflow velocity and its relation to volume. Sorry for trying to help

 

Word of advise: You can't bitch about nobody responding to your threads when you jump all over people who do.

 

I think you're a ****** tool man, no wonder people never respond to your post....and your screen name..."OWNZJOO," since when was "owns" spelled "ownz" and who's "joo?" Best advice you ever had kid - <U>grow up</U>