90 integra gsr questions
Hello everyone. I'm selling my civic to purchase a 1990 acura integra gs. It has 2 doors and the block is b18a. I have a gsr vtec head that I bought from a h-t member when I was planning on putting a b series swap in my civic. My questions
are how much does it cost to get the block and head tapped for vtec oil lines (rounded figure - I know different shops cost different)
Can this modification be done without taking the block out?
If running a 94 gsr IM with a obd1 dizzy, I will need to run a obd 1 p72 ecu right?
Wiring will consist of IAB's and vtec wires to ecu only?
are how much does it cost to get the block and head tapped for vtec oil lines (rounded figure - I know different shops cost different)
Can this modification be done without taking the block out?
If running a 94 gsr IM with a obd1 dizzy, I will need to run a obd 1 p72 ecu right?
Wiring will consist of IAB's and vtec wires to ecu only?
i dont know about the prices for the tap.. i actually bought a golden eagle sandwhich plate.. which is nice
as far as the ecu... 90 will be obd0 and with the conversion harness. you should run a p28... your motor will not have a knock senson.. and p72 will look for that
as far as the ecu... 90 will be obd0 and with the conversion harness. you should run a p28... your motor will not have a knock senson.. and p72 will look for that
I'd check the articles on http://www.g2ic.com. I know both the B18C engine swap and a ls/vtec head conversion are both explained in there. I'm also pretty sure companies sell special dowels so that you don't have to have the head/block machined. Check out the sponsor forums and there should be companies selling these ls/vtec kits.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA-nteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know about the prices for the tap.. i actually bought a golden eagle sandwhich plate.. which is nice
as far as the ecu... 90 will be obd0 and with the conversion harness. you should run a p28... your motor will not have a knock senson.. and p72 will look for that</TD></TR></TABLE>
the IM is a 94 gsr IM that I will be using so I will need to use the p72 unless I use a skunk 2 IM.
as far as the ecu... 90 will be obd0 and with the conversion harness. you should run a p28... your motor will not have a knock senson.. and p72 will look for that</TD></TR></TABLE>
the IM is a 94 gsr IM that I will be using so I will need to use the p72 unless I use a skunk 2 IM.
You do not need to do anything to the block. You just need to drill out the dowl hole on the head, and tap and block off the Vtec journal on the head. You can do the whole install with the block in the car. It is easier to do outside the car especially the vtec oil line and fittings.
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yea get the golden eagle kit, building an ls vtec is easy, its just maintaining it. not trying to rev it past 8800 or so. Build is the way..................
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StrikerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
are how much does it cost to get the block and head tapped for vtec oil lines (rounded figure - I know different shops cost different)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Contact tom@camp1320.com; he has the lowest prices garenteed on Golden Eagle. I belive its ~210shipped for the COMPLETE LS/VTEC kit. You dont fab up anything with this kit, its a "plug N play" deal
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StrikerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can this modification be done without taking the block out? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but like anything, with it out of the car its easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StrikerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If running a 94 gsr IM with a obd1 dizzy, I will need to run a obd 1 p72 ecu right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a 90 teg, its obd0. To wire in vtec, id just buy the conversion harness for obd0-obd1 and then a p28. You can wire in the IABS and the knock, all with the harness, it makes it REALLY easy to do. Then just follow the guide to converting to obd1.
1-4wire o2
1-obd1 dissy
1-obd1 ecu (p28)
1-obd0-obd1 harness (Blown90hatcH)
I think thats it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StrikerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wiring will consist of IAB's and vtec wires to ecu only?</TD></TR></TABLE>
obd0-obd1 like I said will be your best bet. Its easier, cheaper, and most efficient in the long run.
Honda 101
GL HF!
are how much does it cost to get the block and head tapped for vtec oil lines (rounded figure - I know different shops cost different)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Contact tom@camp1320.com; he has the lowest prices garenteed on Golden Eagle. I belive its ~210shipped for the COMPLETE LS/VTEC kit. You dont fab up anything with this kit, its a "plug N play" deal
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StrikerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can this modification be done without taking the block out? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but like anything, with it out of the car its easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StrikerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If running a 94 gsr IM with a obd1 dizzy, I will need to run a obd 1 p72 ecu right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a 90 teg, its obd0. To wire in vtec, id just buy the conversion harness for obd0-obd1 and then a p28. You can wire in the IABS and the knock, all with the harness, it makes it REALLY easy to do. Then just follow the guide to converting to obd1.
1-4wire o2
1-obd1 dissy
1-obd1 ecu (p28)
1-obd0-obd1 harness (Blown90hatcH)
I think thats it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StrikerX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wiring will consist of IAB's and vtec wires to ecu only?</TD></TR></TABLE>
obd0-obd1 like I said will be your best bet. Its easier, cheaper, and most efficient in the long run.
Honda 101

GL HF!
You could get a Blox, Skunk2 or AEBS intake manifold and not worry about IAB's. The Blox and AEBS manifolds are under $200. Then just get a P28 and that way you won't have to worry about a knock sensor either. The only wiring you have to do is vtec. Which is only two wires.
If you use the GSR throttlebody then you have to extend the map sensor wires because the DA map sensor sits on the firewall and is to short to reach the GSR one on the throttlebody
Tapping the head is really easy with the Golden Eagle, it gives everything to do it, you can easily do it in your garage.
If you use the GSR throttlebody then you have to extend the map sensor wires because the DA map sensor sits on the firewall and is to short to reach the GSR one on the throttlebody
Tapping the head is really easy with the Golden Eagle, it gives everything to do it, you can easily do it in your garage.
thanks for all the info, will post up when its done. this car already pull HARD. My civic would not match this. After the head work is done I'm sure it will be a beast.
ok I'm reading up on the lsvtec and now i'm worried about the block. The b18a that is in the car was rebuilt 6 months ago. All balance stock parts except the pistons were oversized. Will the stock rods break on me if i rev the car to 7k-7.5k??
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